Community Forums

DEG503 · 12-19-2010, 08:03 AM

I'm not seeing any needle deflection in the dash volt gauge when I engage the "battery boost" on the dash. I know this has been discussed before but I can't find it. I believe I need to start with checking the relay that performs this funtion (tying the banks together). Where b that relay? Let me guess, engine electrical box, . . . . but which one is it?

bullydogs1 · 12-19-2010, 10:36 AM

I don't know the layout of your coach...but the relay that does this is called a trombetta relay and mine is located inside the battery bay and you see the post connections from each battery to it...

Sbrownstein · 12-19-2010, 12:30 PM

Follow the positive cables from the batteries...that is where they go first!

pipedream2 · 12-27-2010, 08:56 AM

Dave
If your layout is similar to mine it will be in the high current plate....the clear box on the right side as you look into the engine compartment from the back,there is a dual battery isolater on the left side and a 1000 amp solonoid to the right of it....it is large you cant miss it

DEG503 · 12-27-2010, 09:39 AM

Is it the round deely bob the size of a coffee mug above the battery isolator?

Sbrownstein · 12-28-2010, 06:24 AM

David,
I am not familiar with your system, however, without a schematic, it would appear that the lower black unit is a diode isolator, which allows the two banks to be charged together from one feed (alternator or converter), but prevents them from discharging into each other. It appears that the heavy duty solenoid switch, when fired, will connect the two banks and allow them to appear as one. This would allow you to "jump start" using the house batteries when the engine battery is dead or low.

This assumes that the heavy wire from each side that goes to the respective terminals of the isolator continues on to the positive side of each bank.

If this is the case, you can test the solenoid with a meter (should be a voltage difference when not engaged and none when engaged.) If there is a voltage difference regardless of depressing the booster switch, you can bypass the solenoid with a jumper cable and see if you get a better start!

In your installation, the only thing the solenoid appears to do is let you jump start the engine, as the diode isolator allows all batteries to be charged from at least the engine if not also the converter as well.

Dick1142 · 12-29-2010, 01:37 PM

You might also want to check the fuse. I have a 5 amp fuse in the compartment under the drivers seat. I once found this blown and preventing activation of the boost switch.

DEG503 · 12-29-2010, 03:54 PM

I don't want to sound like I'm begging here but I am

. If you look above at the picture of my electric box, and I am right about what part is the Boost solenoid, PLEASE Holla!

rex · 12-29-2010, 04:09 PM

Using your words - "the round deely bob the size of a coffee mug" - is the relay that closes when you engage the Aux Switch. The battery isolator is the finned item at the bottom of your picture. It ties the batteries together so both house and coach can be charged. The failure could be either one but most likely the relay is not closing. The small wires going to it are the connected to the switch and possibly Ground. In any event, have someone press the AUX switch while you feel the relay to see if there is any action in it. If there is, then the contacts inside it may need cleaning. You can remove and disassemble it and clean the contacts.

DEG503 · 12-29-2010, 04:19 PM

All right! Now I have a plan of attack. I put in a new battery isolator last year So I feel confident about its status. The house batts go dead pretty quick if they aren't getting a charge from the engine alternator. So I'll trouble shoot the solenoid and report back here. I will also look for the fuse as mentioned by another helpful reply . . . . stay tuned!!

pipedream2 · 12-30-2010, 10:20 AM

dave
Read Rex's post again...the isolator separates the batteries for charging among other things .......the large solenoid you call the coffee mug is for AUX START only activated by the dash switch

DEG503 · 12-30-2010, 02:19 PM

Yes, I understand, the thread starts with me asking about the lack of needle deflection when pushing the aux start button on the dash. We were only referenceing the batt isolator because I KNOW which component that is. I purchased and installed a new one last year, with the help of the smart folks here.

This was the thread for that repair.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/hous...ing-61052.html

pipedream2 · 01-07-2011, 11:38 AM

OK ....sorry Dave...
Your high current plate is a different layout than mine in 99 according to the picture....glad you found it though

pipedream2 · 01-07-2011, 12:07 PM

Dave the other thing to check is the fuse at the relay
there should be an inline fuse .....10 amp.... from one of the small terminals.(mine is in the high current plate compartment beside the solenoid)The terminal is powered all the time from the domestic kill switch and the dash mount switch is the ground only......in 99 models at least