Community Forums

caymann · 09-12-2010, 12:50 PM

I was going to install Safe-T plus for those occasions when
the front tire goes out. This is more for the DW and when there
is no place to speed up because of traffic in front of you or
someone cutting in at the wrong moment at highway speeds.

Today i tried to take off the axle bolts. My 350 ft-lbs air impact wrench couldn't
budge it. Then i took a 21" breaker bar...still no go. Last night i soaked
the bolts with PBblaster penetrating catalyst and tried them again...nothing

Has anyone tried them? If so, how much torque did you use? Other methods?

mahon1993 · 09-12-2010, 01:20 PM

Try a little heat from a propane torch and then some more PBlaster. Careful the blaster will catch on fire.

Good man · 09-12-2010, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymann

I was going to install Safe-T plus for those occasions when
the front tire goes out. This is more for the DW and when there
is no place to speed up because of traffic in front of you or
someone cutting in at the wrong moment at highway speeds.

Today i tried to take off the axle bolts. My 350 ft-lbs air impact wrench couldn't
budge it. Then i took a 21" breaker bar...still no go. Last night i soaked
the bolts with PBblaster penetrating catalyst and tried them again...nothing

Has anyone tried them? If so, how much torque did you use? Other methods?

caymann,
Try bumping the bolts/nuts clockwise and then counter-clockwise first, now that you have soaked them with PB Blaster.

Please don't be insulted by this comment, but it is awfully easy to get disoriented on the "lefty/loosey - righty/tighty" biznez when working upside down (if that is the case). Rocking that fastener forward and backward will help break it loose as well as get it going in the corrrect direction.

Just seems strange that air-impact and cheater bar did not do the trick...
Good luck,
Jim

Mike Canter · 09-12-2010, 03:07 PM

Never heat wheel nuts. Never. The problem is that they are meant to be torqued to 500 ft lbs. The guys that put them on with the big air impacts normally go way over that. You need a 3/4' drive socket and breaker bar and a 8 to 10 ft cheater bar. Get a step ladder and put the cheater bar so it is at the 9 oclock position and step on the end of the cheater bar while holding onto a step ladder. Now bounce up and down. When it breaks loose it will go with a pop. You can't break the stud but I have had to take a couple of 3/4" Craftsman breaker bars back. One of my MHs was reverse thread on the drivers side. It will have an R on the nut if it is.

The other option is to go to a truck tire place and have them break them loose then tighten to about 300 ft lbs to get home. To tighten them use the breaker bar and compute how far out you need to stand for 500 ft lbs given your weight fully on the cheater bar. If you weigh 200 lbs then you would have to be 2.5 ft out to get 500 lbs of force. Divide 500 lbs by how much you weigh and that will tell you how many feet out you need to be on a horizontal cheater bar from the bolt center. Once it stops turning I bounce a little on the bar. I have a step ladder next to me so I can step off it onto the bar and hold the ladder for support. I also put an dab of anti-sieze compound on the threads on nut base. It about 200 miles you need to check the torque again.

mahon1993 · 09-12-2010, 03:17 PM

Mike, I think caymann is talking about the bolts that hold the front axel to the suspension so he can attach a Safe-t-steer bracket to it. I don't think he was talking about lug nuts. I could be wrong. I was wrong once before, about two days ago.
Greg

WOODYDEL · 09-12-2010, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymann

I was going to install Safe-T plus for those occasions when
the front tire goes out. This is more for the DW and when there
is no place to speed up because of traffic in front of you or
someone cutting in at the wrong moment at highway speeds.

Today i tried to take off the axle bolts. My 350 ft-lbs air impact wrench couldn't
budge it. Then i took a 21" breaker bar...still no go. Last night i soaked
the bolts with PBblaster penetrating catalyst and tried them again...nothing

Has anyone tried them? If so, how much torque did you use? Other methods?

If you're going to do work similar to this, buy and use a torque multiplier. You will loosen any nut.

A video of one type.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDGBjXZmmLs

Some people don't read directions: So look at this expecially about how to release when tightening nuts.:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5RdR...eature=related

P.S. don't let go of that torque wrench when releasing!

There's one thing I must say. Using an impact wrench to tighten nuts initially is OK but that final tightening must be more accurate. Most "mechanics" do not have what they need for these really high torque settings. Accuracy matters.

Mike Canter · 09-12-2010, 04:22 PM

Greg, now I re-read the post you might be right. Either way if you heat the axle u-bolts then you are going to have to replace them. You should put new ones on anyhow with new nuts. The U-bolts on my old MH were torqued to 150 ft lbs.

Twomed · 09-12-2010, 04:38 PM

The guy that put ours on the old Safari earned his $40. Four foot breaker bar on a 1" drive rachet. Big guy too!!
Good Luck

WOODYDEL · 09-12-2010, 05:07 PM

Here's where you can get a cheaper one to use. Stop using bars, pipes and whatever else to loosen or tighten nuts. Even with this one you can use your own inadequate 1/2" torque wrench and get the required twist. 3 times 200 equals 600 ! At least you would be MEASURING how much torque you apply.

Years ago I had some fool work on my 3/4 ton Chevy. Shortly after got a flat. I had to break the studs off because of how tight he made them using his impact wrench. He completely distorted the threads.

WOODYDEL · 09-12-2010, 06:22 PM

Missing link:

Torque Multiplier

caymann · 09-12-2010, 06:25 PM

I am talking about axle to suspension bolts, not wheel nuts
These are Grade (something) hardened bolts.
Torque multipliers are pricey...
Tried rocking the bolts still no luck
I guess i am going to camping world. For $99 they will put it on

Good man · 09-12-2010, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymann

I am talking about axle to suspension bolts, not wheel nuts
These are Grade (something) hardened bolts.
Torque multipliers are pricey...
Tried rocking the bolts still no luck
I guess i am going to camping world. For $99 they will put it on

SoundZ like a plan, caymann...
One thing is for certain... you gave it a good try and you can go to the shop knowing that.

Thanks for getting back and letting us know... we learn from it.

Good luck,
Jim

WOODYDEL · 09-12-2010, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymann

I am talking about axle to suspension bolts, not wheel nuts
These are Grade (something) hardened bolts.
Torque multipliers are pricey...
Tried rocking the bolts still no luck
I guess i am going to camping world. For $99 they will put it on

My example was not about wheel lug nuts. How have you been doing work on your MH in the past? Most MH's have big nuts in all kinds of places. If you intend to keep on working on your MH then spending 160 bucks is no money at all. There are guys on here spending 2500 in routine maintenance. Lowest spent on maintenace reported seems to be around 450 for parts etc.

U bolts are to be replaced (including the nuts) and reuse is verbotten. I know someone mentioned that previously but that mistake alone would stopped me had I made it. What if you had been able to get those nuts off without having to come here?

When CW does the work, just how will they torque the nuts? Keep an eye on them. 99 bucks is not enough to do the work and pay for the new ubolts etc. I'm reasonably sure they will make the mistake of reusing the parts. Don't trust anyone. Trust the MANUAL.

caymann · 09-12-2010, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WOODYDEL

My example was not about wheel lug nuts. How have you been doing work on your MH in the past? Most MH's have big nuts in all kinds of places. If you intend to keep on working on your MH then spending 160 bucks is no money at all. There are guys on here spending 2500 in routine maintenance. Lowest spent on maintenace reported seems to be around 450 for parts etc.

U bolts are to be replaced (including the nuts) and reuse is verbotten. I know someone mentioned that previously but that mistake alone would stopped me had I made it. What if you had been able to get those nuts off without having to come here?

When CW does the work, just how will they torque the nuts? Keep an eye on them. 99 bucks is not enough to do the work and pay for the new ubolts etc. I'm reasonably sure they will make the mistake of reusing the parts. Don't trust anyone. Trust the MANUAL.

I do my routine maintenance and some repairs. I am not a mechanic and i know where to draw the line before i have to take it to the boys with even bigger tools than i got

. Under the chassis, lying down i was not getting enough leverage. With the breaker bar, i tried until my face was red. That's when i said, CW it is. Also i don't like spending too long of a time under the chassis. I know, when i get tired, i make mistakes, and that could be fatal.

What is this ubolt you keep talking about?
The RM chassis has a solid beam axle and the chassis connects with two legs on each end with 4 bolts (1-1/8" size) each. I just needed to loose
two of those 8 bolts.

I can't imagine someone spending 2500 bucks for routine maintenance.
What type of service is that? I have never spend more than 750 working on my own. Some things i won't do, like bearing repack etc