Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Monaco Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-08-2014, 12:30 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
crah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 704
Baggage door locks and fuel compartment lock

2 items for some help.

1. My main baggage door lock is broken. The strike looks like is made of plastic and completely broke off. Anyone know where I can get a new one? Can I replace just the plastic strike or do I need to replace the entire handle assembly. Hopefully not the assembly as it matches my coach paint.
2. I know some of you installed some type of hasp on the fuel tank compartment to open it. I read something a while back but can't find it in the search. This item is foe the lower on the totem pole monaco coaches as I believe the higher line models already have handles like a standard baggage door. Mine is screwed shut at the bottom and not meant to be opened. It would be nice to use the area above the fuel tank for storage.

Thanks in advance.
__________________
Craig
2020 Winnebago View 24D
crah is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-08-2014, 04:38 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
danes-on-tour's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Denmark and Spain
Posts: 2,030
Hi Craigh

Not sure about your first question - I have never tried replacing any of that.

With regards to your second question, I can assist you some what, because I have done this. Here is a link to the thread I made in 2009. At the end it was easier than I thought it would be. The step-drill made a nice crisp hole without any damage to the paintwork.

"My" solution gives you a type of lock many Monacos have already. If you want a handle like on all the other doors I suppose it's just a matter of cutting a different hole, but "my" solution works well (I think).

Good luck
__________________
The Great Dane
2007 Monaco Diplomat PAQ - 2007 Saturn Vue Honorary Texas Boomer
Living in Denmark - visiting the US whenever possible. www.winnebago.dk www.lasramblas.dk

danes-on-tour is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2014, 07:53 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
H. Miller's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,529
The "baggage door lock" is known as a TriMark plunger bolt for baggage door locks.. part# 81493 (plastic - also comes in zinc),,, The entire door lock is part# 060-0400.
The plunger is an easy replacement and TriMark cust. svc. at 800-431-8616 should be able to steer you to a dealer....
__________________
Hal & Ginny Miller '04 Beaver Santiam PRT40
'04 Saturn Vue - US Gear Brake - Blue Ox tow
3"girls" (2 Irish Setters - 1 Retriever) - RIP Annie & Emily (12/26/2017)
H. Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2014, 05:04 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
crah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 704
Quote:
Originally Posted by danes-on-tour View Post
Hi Craigh

Not sure about your first question - I have never tried replacing any of that.

With regards to your second question, I can assist you some what, because I have done this. Here is a link to the thread I made in 2009. At the end it was easier than I thought it would be. The step-drill made a nice crisp hole without any damage to the paintwork.

"My" solution gives you a type of lock many Monacos have already. If you want a handle like on all the other doors I suppose it's just a matter of cutting a different hole, but "my" solution works well (I think).

Good luck
Thanks Danes,

My doors have the hinge on the top. I'm guessing I can still use these locks. They look like barrel cam locks. Does it need to be a monaco part or can any cam lock work? My doors may not be the same thickness as yours either. Not sure if monaco changed that over the years.
__________________
Craig
2020 Winnebago View 24D
crah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2014, 05:05 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
crah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 704
Quote:
Originally Posted by H. Miller View Post
The "baggage door lock" is known as a TriMark plunger bolt for baggage door locks.. part# 81493 (plastic - also comes in zinc),,, The entire door lock is part# 060-0400.
The plunger is an easy replacement and TriMark cust. svc. at 800-431-8616 should be able to steer you to a dealer....
Thanks for the info. The zinc ones would seem to be a better solution. I'm shocked it was plastic.
__________________
Craig
2020 Winnebago View 24D
crah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2014, 06:00 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Happycarz's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 2,300
Craig,
Maybe this help with the fuel tank door: http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=1348
__________________
Harry

2008 Monaco Camelot 40' PDQ
Happycarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2014, 06:49 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
nodine's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Knoxville, TN, USA
Posts: 3,922
Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
Craig,
Maybe this help with the fuel tank door: Curb side tank access door latches - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery
To add to what Harry has posted here is the text from a reply I sent to another member asking for details on the bottom latches.

************************************************** *******
All the photos and the two scans are here:
Curb side tank access door latches - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery

The McMaster-Carr part number is 13435A67. If you type the part number in the search window at the top left of the McMaster-Carr website it should take you to this page:
McMaster-Carr

Exposed Adjustable Draw Latch, 304 Stainless Steel, 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" Latch Distance Cost $17.82 each. You need two.

The angle is 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 aluminum available at Home Depot. If I had your email I would send you a better copy of my sketch. The sketch has all the dimensions I used to make the brackets. There are two pieces of angle cut to 4" long and then one side is cut down to 3/4 inch from 1-1/2 inch. There are two pieces of angle cut to 2-1/2 inches long. Those are trimmed back 5/8 inch on one side. Drilling the holes is important. The shorter bracket is the piece that the small catch of the latch mounts on. See the photos. The shorter pieces are mounted to the longer pieces to form two brackets. It is necessary to mount the two longer pieces of the bracket to the bottom of the door and then attach the other half of each angle. This allows you to get you socket wrench on the bolts that attach the long half of the bracket to the bottom of the door.

I used 11/64 holes for all the bracket holes except the holes that mount the bracket to the bottom of the door. Those holes need to be large enough to accept a #12 Drill Point screw 1 inch long. Drill two pilot holes in each bracket where the drill point screws will pass through. Before drilling them out to a size large enough to accept the #12 screws place each bracket on the channel at the bottom of the door where it will be mounted. Use a scribe to mark the channel at the bottom of the door where pilot holes will be drilled for the #12 drill point screws. Now drill out the holes in the long bracket half to allow the #12 drill point screws to pass through. Screw the brackets half's to the bottom of the door.

Use stainless screws to attach the latch catch to each short bracket half. Also use stainless screws to attach the short half to the long half at the bottom of the door. Ace Hardware is the best place to purchase stainless screws. I believe I used #8 screws but they maybe #10. I did not make a note on the sketch and my memory is not to good anymore. You can improvise where you need to.

One you have the brackets attached to the bottom of the door you are ready to mount the other half of the latch. Take a close look at the photos to see how the brackets are positions and how the latch works. Use stainless machine screws to mount the brackets to the bottom of the motorhome. Screw the adjustable part of the latch so it is in the center of travel of the threads. That will give plenty of travel to adjust in either direction. Place the latch in the catch and hold it up to the bottom of the coach and screw it down. Do both sides and then adjust each latch to make the door close the way you like it.

I believe I have had these latches on for over four years and they have never come unlatched while traveling. I do not set them to compress the door gasket down all the way but just a good firm seat.

Hope I have not confused you with my rambling but as always just give me a shout if you have questions.
************************************************** ***

Bob
__________________
Bob and Pam
2022 Quantum JM31
2020 Chevy Sonic (2023 Colorado Z71 at railyard awaiting shipment)
nodine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2014, 09:26 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Rusty years's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 529
They bought HR/Monaco parts.
Northwest RV Supply
__________________
Follow us at: https://joelandesta.blogspot.com/
2006 HR Endeavor 40'...2002 Corvette
2011 Forest River 20' Cargo Trailer
Rusty years is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2014, 12:33 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
danes-on-tour's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Denmark and Spain
Posts: 2,030
Craig - the lock that I fitted is adjustable which easily will make it fit doors of different thickness.

I am sure that there will be different types/makes out there that will be suitable for the job. The reason I fitted exactly the one I did is that I already had one like it on my RV, and I could get the "Coca-cola key" to operate both.
__________________
The Great Dane
2007 Monaco Diplomat PAQ - 2007 Saturn Vue Honorary Texas Boomer
Living in Denmark - visiting the US whenever possible. www.winnebago.dk www.lasramblas.dk

danes-on-tour is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2014, 05:53 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
H. Miller's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,529
Quote:
Originally Posted by crah View Post
Thanks for the info. The zinc ones would seem to be a better solution. I'm shocked it was plastic.
My replacement plunger looked and felt more like nylon.. The real problem is allowing the door to slam shut rather than keeping control of it and opening the latch just before contact. The "slam shut" method will break either plunger...
__________________
Hal & Ginny Miller '04 Beaver Santiam PRT40
'04 Saturn Vue - US Gear Brake - Blue Ox tow
3"girls" (2 Irish Setters - 1 Retriever) - RIP Annie & Emily (12/26/2017)
H. Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2014, 07:02 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Signal Hill, California
Posts: 3,320
Got mine at Northwest RV supply. deSanford
__________________
Sanford, Linda & R cats: Molly, Levi, Cody
2011 Monaco by Navistar RV
Good Sam Life Member Good Sam Hams Chapter
deSanford is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2014, 08:00 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Coma's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Emerald Coast
Posts: 1,759
I replaced my latch. It is the same amount of work to replace just the striker. Drill out the rivets and the door back plate comes off. It screws in from the back side.
__________________
Jim and Jennie, Cats=Bittles and Potter, 2000 Dynasty 350 ISC
2013 Silverado 4x4 Towed with R1200GS in bed.
PROV23:4 Do not wear yourself out to get rich; have the wisdom to show restraint.
Coma is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
door, fuel



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fuel Gauge, Sender, Empty Fuel Tank TwelveVolt Spartan Motorhome Chassis Forum 2 07-06-2014 11:54 AM
Fuel pump replacement after-action report and lessons learned. Elexwiz Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 4 05-03-2014 06:50 PM
E15 Fuel - For those who have not been warned about it! Doggy Daddy Just Conversation 5 02-12-2014 08:18 PM
Fuel Tank Problems Winnibago 78 Custom On Dodge chassis mdpeat Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 6 07-25-2013 02:27 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.