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Old 06-06-2020, 02:18 PM   #1
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Question Bathroom Lighting issues 2005 LaPalma

Bathroom has 4 light switches on the same switch unit,with multiple problems:

1. Overhead light won't work. Replaced bulb to no effect. Checked voltage going into switch and there is none. Not sure how to fix it.

2. Vanity light works fine. Checked voltage going into switch and it's OK, so I know my multimeter is working!

3. Accent lights (on floor) occasionally work (mostly they don't). There is voltage between the wires going into the switch.

4. Light in shower hasn't worked for months. Wasn't worried about it but now there's only one light (vanity) working, would be good to fix it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks1
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Old 06-06-2020, 02:28 PM   #2
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Related question

Following up on the bathroom wiring question.

It might help us trace the wiring if we could remove the drawers in the bathroom. Can't figure out how to remove them. Anyone know how to do this?

Thanks!
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Old 06-06-2020, 02:29 PM   #3
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Check your circuit breakers and look for a tripped switch, it will or should show in "half" position, switch it off and back on as this will reset the circuit. When you have a thunderstorm or power surge a circuit is effected in some way. This can BLOW a fuse in a car/RV. But in your home, you have circuit breakers and they can show half on and half off. So switch fully off and back on as this will reset. You also have in your bath, kitchen a GFI switch, this is an OUTLET with buttons and sometimes a light. PUSH OFF and BACK on this will reset the GFI switch. Good luck, you don't need tools.
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Old 06-06-2020, 02:45 PM   #4
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Is this 12V DC or 110V AC?
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Old 06-06-2020, 04:39 PM   #5
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I believe your lights are 12 volts so you should likely be looking for a burnt out fuse. I don't know where your fuse panel is, so I can't help you there. It sounds like you may have multiple issues, so a bad switch or a bad light fixture is a possibility too, especially where you're having intermittent problems.

Tracing wires is probably not necessary at this point, but to get the drawer out, pull it fully out. On the side of the extended hinge, you'll see a black plastic lever. One side you push the lever down, the other side you pull the lever up. Do that simultaneously and pull the drawer out further. The drawer should come right out.
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Old 06-07-2020, 01:55 PM   #6
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Sy=till working on it - thanks for the responses

Thanks for the responses.

It is 12V. All the fuses I can find are OK. I checked the panel in the bedroom and also the one in the engine component (although I think that one is only for the drive components. Circuit breakers are also OK.

I'd been planning on replacing the ceiling bathroom fixture with LED bulbs. I did that in the kitchen with no problems. But since there's no power on the wires going to the switch I'm guessing that wouldn't help at that point. Am I right there?

Still working on the drawer. No luck yet.

Thanks again
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Old 06-07-2020, 02:09 PM   #7
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Drwaer out! Thanks.

I did get the drawer out - following your instructions worked!

I can see wiring but no luck finding a problem yet. I did re-check all the fuses and circuit breakers I could find, but maybe there are more. Since one of the lights in that fixture does work, I'm thinking it might not be a fuse or circuit breaker issue. But I'm not an expert. Any other thoughts?

Vicky thinks it might be a ground issue. How do I check this?

Thanks
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Old 06-07-2020, 04:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VickyfromNZ View Post
I did get the drawer out - following your instructions worked!

I can see wiring but no luck finding a problem yet. I did re-check all the fuses and circuit breakers I could find, but maybe there are more. Since one of the lights in that fixture does work, I'm thinking it might not be a fuse or circuit breaker issue. But I'm not an expert. Any other thoughts?

Vicky thinks it might be a ground issue. How do I check this?

Thanks
Can you post a picture of your fixture? If one of the lights works and the other don't, (assuming the bulbs are good), you have an issue with the fixture.

As far as grounds are concerned, usually all the grounds are terminated on a ground bus bar. Again, I'm not familiar with your coach, so I can't help you with location.
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Old 06-08-2020, 10:53 AM   #9
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Assuming there are three way switches in the circuit. They can be defective and stopping the voltage. Also with moisture in the bathroom the bulb sockets should be suspect. Even a thin film of corrosion can make the connections fail. Also occasionally you will find voltage but not have a good enough connection to get adequate current flow, (amps) through to the light itself. Picture a pressure guage in a water line that isn't turned on. Pressure would appear but wouldn't be doing anything. It has to have a place to go. So even those connections that show voltage should be giggled a bit to help establish a better contact. If this works go back and clean the contacts. Good luck.
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Old 06-08-2020, 11:00 AM   #10
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There should be a grounding bus for the whole rig and probably dedicated grounding circuits close to each fuse/breaker panel. Even if continuity shows they may not be making good contact. I'm not sure if your rig has separate house grounds from engine grounding but checking continuity should let you know. Keep in mind the 110v and 12V are separate. You don't want to short out anything.
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Old 06-08-2020, 03:20 PM   #11
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Photos

Here are the photos of the fixture. On the one from the rear, showing the wire connections, the situation is:
Left: No voltage across switch
Second left: Voltage across switch. Lights work intermittently but not at all for some weeks
Third left: Voltage across switch. Light works fine.
Right: No voltage across switch.

Can't see a grounding bus. Did try jiggling the contacts on all, but no change.
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Old 06-08-2020, 06:57 PM   #12
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couple of follow up questions that are not clear to me.

1. You said in an earlier post "Since one of the lights in that fixture does work". Which light fixture are we talking about? You have 4 switches.
2. On the bottom of those switches you have wires that are inside a plastic shroud. It appears there are 2 wires coming out of the one closest to us. Are those jumpered over to one of the other switches? I can't tell from picture.
3. You said you got "voltage across switch". How did you test that? Normally you don't get voltage 'across a switch'.

One other question from one of your earlier posts. You said you checked all the fuses. Did you visually check them or do a continuity check? I've had fuses look fine, but were not.
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Old 06-09-2020, 01:48 PM   #13
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Clarification

I took the connectors out and touched my multimeter (on DC Volts) to the two wires to look for voltage. This is what I meant by "voltage across switch". I got no reading. In the case of the one light that is working (second from the right on rear view - labelled Cosmetic on front view) I didn't remove the connectors - just put the voltmeter leads on the two connectors - and got a voltage reading.

Am I misunderstanding how to check?

All of the connectors going into each switch have 2 wires. They don't appear to be jumpered across. The plastic shrouds seem to be sealed so I haven't tried opening them. Should I?

Also no, I just visually checked the fuses. Can I do a continuity check by removing the fuse and using the voltmeter across the points where the fuse goes?

I appreciate your help - as you can see I;m not an expert at this!
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Old 06-09-2020, 02:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VickyfromNZ View Post
I took the connectors out and touched my multimeter (on DC Volts) to the two wires to look for voltage. This is what I meant by "voltage across switch". I got no reading. In the case of the one light that is working (second from the right on rear view - labelled Cosmetic on front view) I didn't remove the connectors - just put the voltmeter leads on the two connectors - and got a voltage reading.

Am I misunderstanding how to check? Yes, I think you are.Putting 2 test wires from your voltmeter on the same wire will show no voltage. Voltage is measured on the meter when you put 1 lead on a positive wire and the other on a ground wire (or ground on frame or bus)

All of the connectors going into each switch have 2 wires. They don't appear to be jumpered across. The plastic shrouds seem to be sealed so I haven't tried opening them. Should I?NO, don't pry them open.
Lets leave them alone.


Also no, I just visually checked the fuses. Can I do a continuity check by removing the fuse and using the voltmeter across the points where the fuse goes?Yes, you can use most voltmeters but you need to set it to check for continuity. Your checking the fuse, not the 'points where the fuse goes' so don't put the test leads into the sockets. Your not checking voltage. You may need to read up on that or have someone help you. We need to be positive the fuses are bad (or good) before we do much anything else.

I appreciate your help - as you can see I;m not an expert at this!
We will figure this out and I'll try to help you as much as I can, but from your comments,(and please don't take this the wrong way) I'm thinking you're in over your head. You may want to get someone near by to help you out. I don't want you to be testing and blowing more fuses, causing more issues than you already have.
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