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srh · 12-11-2020, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

Salesman switch by entry door toggled off and now back on? That is the switch that cuts off some but not all of the 12 volts systems. Some do not charge with that switch off.

I thought about this and tried to play with the switch. Either I don't really know how to operate the switch, or it doesn't seem to work!

YC1 · 12-12-2020, 07:06 AM

Ok, since you just changed oil in the generator I must assume you started it and probably left the shoreline cord plugged in at the same time.

With it being cold you may have had a floor heater on at that time??? Heat pumps running??? In any case, transferring a load or just doing this over time can arc the transfer switch contacts.

If you can still start the generator do so and see what symptoms you get.

If you cannot start the generator because the batteries are too low, try to start the engine and after a minute of warming push your emergency start button and prop it so it stays closed.

I'm kind of taking a large grasp at how many symptoms you may have now.

If your batteries are still up and the generator starts. Then go right to the transfer switch with a voltmeter and start checking there. There is likely a schematic inside the lid if not on the outside. Or look the model up.

Transfer switches take a hammering and I have been guilty of abuse myself. I replaced mine two years ago. The internal circuit that decides weather you are on shoreline or generator went bad and it decided I was on generator all the time. A simple bypass while waiting for the new part kept me going.

srh · 12-12-2020, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

Ok, since you just changed oil in the generator I must assume you started it and probably left the shoreline cord plugged in at the same time.

With it being cold you may have had a floor heater on at that time??? Heat pumps running??? In any case, transferring a load or just doing this over time can arc the transfer switch contacts.

If you can still start the generator do so and see what symptoms you get.

If you cannot start the generator because the batteries are too low, try to start the engine and after a minute of warming push your emergency start button and prop it so it stays closed.

I'm kind of taking a large grasp at how many symptoms you may have now.

If your batteries are still up and the generator starts. Then go right to the transfer switch with a voltmeter and start checking there. There is likely a schematic inside the lid if not on the outside. Or look the model up.

Transfer switches take a hammering and I have been guilty of abuse myself. I replaced mine two years ago. The internal circuit that decides weather you are on shoreline or generator went bad and it decided I was on generator all the time. A simple bypass while waiting for the new part kept me going.

Thank you, YC1: You are bringing up good points.
Here is where I am at right.

I did change the oil and the oil filter on the generator first. I did start it after and all went well. I had the coach disconnected from the shore power when I did that. When I got done with the oil change, I plugged it back into shore power and everything was working.

The next day I tried to change the gen fuel filter. As it turned, later I discovered that I had a bad fuel filter. Fuel was leaking from both inlet and outlet nuts where they are attached to the body of the fuel filter. At this time when I was having problems with the fuel filter, I decided to quit for the day and connected to the shore power for the night, planning on working on it the next day. That was when it wouldn't recognize that it was connected to shore power. The inverter display showed, "Waiting for AC..."

The next day when I realized my leaky fuel filter, I put on the old filter back and everything has been working well since.

I hope this helps. Still trying to know what was happening when it wouldn't connect to shore power.

vito.a · 12-12-2020, 09:54 AM

You have an Esco ES50-65N transfer switch in one of the rear basement compartments. It's job is to transfer power from shore to generator and vice versa. They should be exercised regularly or they get sticky. They can also get noisy. The other problem is the screws securing the wires get loose. Be careful in there, but remove the cover and tighten the screws securing the wires.

I use DeOxit to clean the contacts and it seems to quiet down and function better.
If you decide to replace it, ESCO has a newer version, LPT50BRD. It's about $225.

srh · 12-12-2020, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vito.a

You have an Esco ES50-65N transfer switch in one of the rear basement compartments. It's job is to transfer power from shore to generator and vice versa. They should be exercised regularly or they get sticky. They can also get noisy. The other problem is the screws securing the wires get loose. Be careful in there, but remove the cover and tighten the screws securing the wires.

I use DeOxit to clean the contacts and it seems to quiet down and function better.
If you decide to replace it, ESCO has a newer version, LPT50BRD. It's about $225.

Thank you very much, Vito.
I found a picture of the ES50 in the User Manual - didn't say where is it located. I will have to look for it in the coach.
On another note, Rick Y. is coming to my house this Tuesday to fix my Vorad

Later Edit: Could it be in this bay?

BobJones · 12-12-2020, 05:54 PM

I'm guessing one of the two grey boxes on the left....

vito.a · 12-12-2020, 08:06 PM

Yes it should be there.

srh · 12-12-2020, 09:31 PM

Thank you all for your help.
I have not messed with power transfer and want to make sure to do it correctly.
Disconnect shore power
Turn the house and chassis battery disconnect
Open the box, clean and tighten all the connections with DeOxit .
Anything else?

Outbound · 12-13-2020, 04:58 PM

When on shore power do you get a semi loud humming noise from transfer switch, that could be a sign of worn contactor points.

srh · 12-13-2020, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Outbound

When on shore power do you get a semi loud humming noise from transfer switch, that could be a sign of worn contactor points.

Not that I have heard.

YC1 · 12-14-2020, 04:55 AM

I highly recommend a maintenance manual you build by taking pictures and taking measurements.

At this point starting at the transfer panel a printed picture with space for notes or a pdf that you can put notes on.

I use plastic page protectors and sometimes keep a copy near the device that might be giving me an issue. Time is important when chasing an intermittent. I also have a thumbdrive full of hundreds of files and notes.

You need a good ground that you can get to quickly for the meter. I built one from a normal three prong repair plug. Just connect one wire to the ground lug and put an alligator clip on the end. An inline fuse holder is a good addition to the test cable.

Just plug the thing into the nearest outlet and start taking measurements.

A transfer switch can become intermittent as can any relay/solenoid. Small pits build up and some contacts actually can move position depending on their size and build.

The infamous BIRD relay which represents many variations is know for becoming intermittent. They can become weak and allow some current to pass but not enough to start a vehicle for example. They can allow enough low current to charge batteries but not enough to carry heavy current.

Keep trying and keep notes.