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Old 03-09-2022, 09:57 AM   #1
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Battery boost/isolator diagram

Hey guys!
I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40 PLQ. I'm troubleshooting the battery aux boost/isolator circuit. The house battery doesn't charge from the engine alternator. Can someone supply me with the schematic diagram for this sub-system?

Thanks
Joe
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Old 03-09-2022, 04:01 PM   #2
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Most of the time it's the contacts in the solenoid. Try watching voltage parked and have someone hit boost button listen for clunk. Also if coil is warm it's pulled in/ already pulled in ,no clunk.
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Old 03-10-2022, 05:38 AM   #3
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Thanks. Been there, done that
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Old 03-11-2022, 01:01 AM   #4
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If your coach is like my 2000 Monaco Windsor, you will have the green box in the picture. It suppose to manage the charge between chassis and house battery. But I doubt it can provide more than 5 amps. It is very obsolete nowadays. If you want any meaningful charging, buy a Renogy or better Victron DC-DC charger.
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Old 03-11-2022, 05:41 AM   #5
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And what were your findings on boost solenoid is coil getting voltage , was it warm after engine running, does it work off boost switch,did you test voltage drop across cables...throw us a bone here .
Your owners manual is pretty extensive in 10minute scan in 300+ pages, I did not find IRD relay/module that only charges house from alternator or echo chassis charging device in battery diagrams. But it uses other intellect systems. Google Intellitec IRD & BIRD for more info.
HR Ambassador an Monaco Knight are sister coaches there are more monaco wiring diagrams in file section as well member contryB shares a huge collection of diagrams and files a link is in his signature in every post.
To create bi-directional charging ,eliminate diode isolator and boost solenoid many of us have upgraded to Bluesea MTL-ACR with lifetime warranty .
https://www.holidayrambler.com/owners-manuals/
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Thanks. Been there, done that
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Old 03-11-2022, 07:51 AM   #6
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If you want a long term solution and like KISS method I'd see if you can install the Bluesea ML-ACR as 153stars suggested.
I eliminated my Lambert 415 maintainer, BIRD, and Isolation relay and installed one. I did install a switch on the dash that controls operation, this took longer then the actual base unit install but it works great.
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Old 03-11-2022, 08:23 AM   #7
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https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xvV5a...ujNTr?e=7JDSHa

The file is too large for an attachment so you will need to download it.

If this is the crossmatch to yours it indicates you have a large solenoid that is run by s device in the front run bay. I have not dug down yet to see if it is an IRD etc.

As mentioned, if the solenoid is warm to the touch it is being engaged but the contacts inside are bad.

Just one measurement is really needed to troubleshoot this. Voltage on the little purple wire will indicate the solenoid is being activated. Of course you need to be sure the white wire has zero volts on it at the same time. Ok, that's two measurements.

Your aux start button should activate it as mentioned and is a quick way to sort things out.

If you could provide a couple of pictures as attachments I would like to add those to the wiring diagram for future use. The battery compartment and the front run bay pictures would be appreciated.

Here is what is likely in the "front run bay". See if you can locate the devices shown. The small "bosh type" relay disables the combining function when the engine alternator is running and you have the generator on at the same time. The competing charging sources are isolated in that situation.

https://www.rvpartscenter.com/shop-b...hipping-detail
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Old 03-12-2022, 05:51 AM   #8
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Thanks all for the suggestions!
My isolator switch is an electro-mechanical solenoid in the battery bay. I already determined that it's not getting a control signal, so I'm pretty sure the problem is with the control circuits in the front fuse bay. That's why I want a schematic.

Joe
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Old 03-12-2022, 09:56 AM   #9
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Joe, if you will post a picture of your front run bay we can confirm the schematic.

Did you download the file in my post?
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Old 03-13-2022, 05:50 AM   #10
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YC1

I'm just getting around to looking at this. It seems to be exactly what I was looking for. I think it will lead me to a quick diagnosis..

In the next couple weeks I'll be working on the MH and I'll get the photos you requested.

Thanks again!

Joe
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Old 03-22-2022, 03:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joedarock View Post
Thanks all for the suggestions!
My isolator switch is an electro-mechanical solenoid in the battery bay. I already determined that it's not getting a control signal, so I'm pretty sure the problem is with the control circuits in the front fuse bay. That's why I want a schematic.

Joe
I have the 2005 Am 34 and I think mine is the same. there is an IRD in the front left control box. My relay died and I didn't notice as the solar keeps the house batteries full. However when I went 600 amps of LiFePo I no longer wanted the direct load on the Alternator so I just use the triggering wire to activate my Renogy 40 amp DC to DC. There is about a five to ten minute delay in that control voltage coming on so be aware of that when you are probing.


On YouTube the "AZexpert" has exactly that issue and upgrades the IRD to a BIRD with pretty good show and tell. I think with his pointers you will recognize where that thing is on the front left compartment.


Good luck. Mine is great without the solenoid but i do lose the boost button and may some day have to use jumper cables if I have to boost the starter batteries from the house LiFePo's.
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Old 03-22-2022, 04:21 PM   #12
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PCB #6 has an adjustment pot "ISO RLY SW"?
Might be it?
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