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Old 04-08-2011, 03:15 PM   #1
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Question Battery Cut-off Switch/House Battery Disconnect- 2002 Diplomat 40DST

During some routine maintenance, I found that turning the House Battery Disconnect Switch in the battery compartment to OFF does not shut down all the DC circuits. I still have to turn off the Battery Cut-off Switch by the entry door to shut everything off. We've only had this coach since November and are still "learning" some of the peculiarities of the systems. I would have guessed that turning OFF the House Battery Disconnect Switch that it would shut ALL DC systems down without turning the Battery Cut-off Switch OFF. I read that that the Cut-off Switch by the entry door doesn't shut down some of the "parasitic" loads and the Battery Disconnect switch has to be turned OFF to shut the down the "parasitic" circuits. Is it normal to have to shut off both switches ??
Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:29 PM   #2
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On my 2004 Signature it is exactly like yours. I have yet to figure out Monaco's logic as to what stays on and what is disconnected. I can turn off both my chassis and house battery disconnects and still start my motor and will have all kinds of weird indications.With the house and chassis disconnects off the interior lights still come on and my batteries are still charged by either shore power or solar power. The salesman switch by the front door does shut off my interior lights but not my fridge.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:22 PM   #3
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I'm not sure but it sounds to me that either the disconnect switch in the battery compartment is bad or someone was having a bad day at the factory. I don't know how Monaco intended or wired it but I know I'd want the switch to disconnect all power, period. I'd check the switch first. And I'd bypass the "salesman switch" as well, it's just a inopportune failure waiting to happen IMO.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:42 PM   #4
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On my Sig the battery disconect and salesman switches work just fine. I just cannot figure out the logic that Monaco used. I can understand not shutting down the fridge because you want to be able to leave the MH for a period of time and shut off most things but do not want to shut down the fridge. I can understand the logic of still being able to charge the batteries with the disconnect switches off and that is in the manual. My thoughts are that you can still start the motor with the chassis disconnect off because you would not want to pull all that current of a starter motor through that disconnect switch and melt the contacts.
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:12 PM   #5
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Reading your posts, I'm thinking it might be best to move the feed to the salesman solenoid to the coach battery disconnect. I've already wired around the salesman solenoid. That way you could disconnect all the 12v except the starter and frig.

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Old 04-08-2011, 07:12 PM   #6
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Cut off switch

It is interesting to see this site today. I just returned from Fl. the other day (1400 miles no problems).
Today I was hooked up to shore power and wanted to set up my Satelitte antenna and I couldn't get power to it. The tv worked.
I noticed that on my panel I could get a reading on the Chassis battery but not the House battery.My battery shut-offs were connected on.
I disconnected shore power and turned on my generator. Seemed ok but still no dc power to antenna or dc lights.
Pushed the battery disconnect next to the door, nothing. If I held the button "on" the dc lights would go on,and my panel would light everything up, but go off as soon as I released the switch.
Do you think I may have a problem with the transfer switch or the converter, or am I over thinking it?

I have had this situation exist before, but I just pressed the cut-off switch to "on" and it would clear itself up in a few minutes.

Any thoughts?
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:48 AM   #7
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Joe, from what you are describing it sounds like the disconnect relay that the salesman switch controls is bad. The lights are 12 v DC powered from your batteries and you can loose that inverter charger and still have battery power (till they run down) for your lights.

The fact that you can disconnect your shore power and start your generator means your house batteries are OK because that is what runs your generator starter.

This is not uncommon for this solenoid to go bad. Some people wire around it so it is on all the time or you can just replace it.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:51 PM   #8
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Thanks to everyone for relating their experiences on my original thread. I did some further checking after reading your posts and find that my original circumstaces only existed while I was plugged in to shore power. When not on shore power the Battery Cut off switch by the door indeed turns off everything except the "nescessry" loads and if I turn off the Battery Disconnect in the battery compartment it shuts down everything....including LP valve, detectors, electric toilet, refrig, etc. This seems normal but I wonder why it is not the same whether on shore power or off... "kinda" strange. I'm guessing that the shore AC power is coming through the inverter/converter on those two 110 volt circuits and also feeding the "essential" DC circuits. Now that I know what is happening, I can live with it. Thanks to all and good luck on your rigs.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:18 PM   #9
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DC Power

Mike, thanks for the input. I ran into a similar site today over on page one of these "New Posts". That is exactly what the other guys are suggesting. So tomorrow I'll pop out that switch and wire the two red wires together and see what happens. I read where one guy did it two years ago and has never had that problem since. They do recommend shutting off the battery disconnect switch so there won't be any residual voltage there.
So, now, begs the question; if we have a chassis battery shut off, why do we have to have a battery cut-off switch. I have seen it referred to as a "salesman's switch". Is that so they can keep the RV shut off until the salesman gets in to show the unit and flips on the "cut-off" switch?
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:23 PM   #10
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DC power

I think I should have said "house shut off switch" Not "Chassis....etc
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsonjm209
Mike, thanks for the input. I ran into a similar site today over on page one of these "New Posts". That is exactly what the other guys are suggesting. So tomorrow I'll pop out that switch and wire the two red wires together and see what happens. I read where one guy did it two years ago and has never had that problem since. They do recommend shutting off the battery disconnect switch so there won't be any residual voltage there.
So, now, begs the question; if we have a chassis battery shut off, why do we have to have a battery cut-off switch. I have seen it referred to as a "salesman's switch". Is that so they can keep the RV shut off until the salesman gets in to show the unit and flips on the "cut-off" switch?
If I have this right...the switch provides or disconnects the 12 volts to the coil of the solenoid ...the solenoid then closes or opens the house batteries...so, if I were bypassing anything I believe it would be the solenoid not the switch...though that would keep the coil energized. If you have an electrical layout in your owners manual, you will see the "bat cut" switch(salesman switch) connected to the solenoid . I have an 08 knight so yours might be different but pretty sure most are the same.

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Old 04-11-2011, 07:33 PM   #12
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Cut off

I think I just went (electrically) over my head. I don't think the cut off switch is the problem, I think it is the solonoid that it controls. I am going to have a pro look at this for me. I have no idea where that is.
On the other posting on this site there is a nice set of photos for bypassing and combining the red wires. This looks nothing like my 03 Vacationer Ford.
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:48 PM   #13
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DC cutoff switch/solonoid

I got a call from my RV tech. It seems when they checked the solonoid they heard a "click" and everything was ok. They said they checked it about 50 times and it continues to work well. When I pick it up I will be sure that they show me what they did to correct the problem, cause sure as heck when I get it home, time #51 will be the killer.
While it is in there they are placing a new gasket on the bottom of the driver's side slide out . It was allowing some water to come in when I slid it back after some rain. I noticed the gasket was loose and was getting shabby looking. I ran my finger into it and it was building up water. Good to get it now cause I had a new carpet put in 2 years ago and I just finished cleaning it and all of the upholstry.
This is a good RV shop called RV's R Us in North Oxford, Ma. Have been using it for a few years now and I find them quite skilled and professional. No "half-fast" work.
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:10 PM   #14
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We got stuck with slides out and no power to the coach, after reading several posts on how to bypass the solenoid we gave it a try and worked like a charm. Really appreciate everyone's input and support. It was such as easy fix for a frustrating situation.
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