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Old 02-13-2015, 02:49 PM   #1
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Battery Isolator or Solenoid Location

Thanks to the helpful folks here, I have ordered a Trik-L-Start to help keep my chassis battery charged during long periods of downtime. In order to avoid running 16 gauge wire from the house batteries all the way to the chassis battery, the instructions say I can use the battery isolator or solenoid. Problem is, I can't find either one. Anyone know where these buggers are?

06 Monaco LaPalma, Workhorse W22 w\8.1L.

Thanks.
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:22 AM   #2
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Follow the cables from the batteries. They will typically run right to the solenoid -- either in the same compartment, or through a hole in the wall to the adjacent compartment.

My solenoid was mounted to the back wall of the battery compartment. The positive cable from the house batteries went to one post of the solenoid, while the positive cable from the chassis batteries went to the other post of the solenoid. I installed the Trik-L-Start onto those two solenoid posts.
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:43 AM   #3
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Found it. There is a box inside a drivers side front compartment that houses a bunch of fuses and relays. I opened that up and there it was!

Easy install (as soon as it gets here).
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dawg View Post
Found it. There is a box inside a drivers side front compartment that houses a bunch of fuses and relays. I opened that up and there it was!
I don't think so. While there is a large solenoid there, I think you'll find that it is for the "Salesman Switch" which is the house battery cutoff that is controlled by the battery cutoff switch by the front door. Installing the Trick-L-Start on that solenoid will not accomplish anything.

Open up that compartment and listen to it while someone presses and releases the "Aux Start" switch on the dash. I'll bet you hear nothing. Then, have that someone turn the battery cutoff switch by the font door on and off. I'll bet you hear the solenoid switching at that time.

You need to fine the actual battery isolator solenoid. I'm sure it will be within a few feet of the batteries. You need the one that clunks when you operate the "Aux Start" switch on the dash.
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:22 PM   #5
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SPA48 previously posted this picture:

This looks very similar to the battery bay in my coach. The solenoid you want is in the very center of the picture, above the batteries and below the black plastic circuit box. Your battery compartment may be different, but at least this gives an idea of what you're looking for.

_______________________________________________


JimM68 previously posted this picture:

This is the lower left corner of the relay/fuse board below the driver's side window. It is the house battery cutoff solenoid, and is NOT the one you want.
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Old 02-15-2015, 04:16 PM   #6
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This is what I was referring to not the one in your pic. The lug on the left is marked 12v House Battery
NON SWITCHED, the one on the right is labeled 12v Chassis Battery. I measured the voltage on both. The 12 v NON SWITCHED measured 13.5 volts because it was plugged into shore power. The other measured 12 volts which is the chassis battery that wasn't being charged. When the switch on the dash is pushed, the solenoid clunks and the voltage goes up to 13.2 volts on the chassis
battery side showing that the chassis battery is getting boosted from the house batteries.
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:16 AM   #7
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OK, that makes sense. My apologies, I missed the fact that you had a gas engine and Workhorse chassis. With the gas engine in front, the chassis battery is probably up front as well, so it makes sense that the interconnect solenoid would be up front. The solenoid picture I posted was from a diesel, where both house and chassis batteries are in back.

It looks like you will have a very easy install.

Yes, hook the two wires of the Trik-L-Start to those studs, connect the third to a ground point, and you're all set.
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:07 AM   #8
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Our Gas Workhorse chassis has it's own version of a BIRD relay.
It stopped working and the chassis battery stopped being charged.
Center top is the isolator relay delay board.

Just below that is a relay that I believe disables during generator operation.

Just shown in the bottom right is the Trombetta Solenoid that connects the chassis and house batteries with some intelligence fro the isolator relay delay

I replaced the Trombetta Solenoid that was seized but still have a intermitten problem with the isolator relay delay Board that I am trying to find a replacement for.
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harris155 View Post
Our Gas Workhorse chassis has it's own version of a BIRD relay.
It stopped working and the chassis battery stopped being charged.
Center top is the isolator relay delay board.

Just below that is a relay that I believe disables during generator operation.

Just shown in the bottom right is the Trombetta Solenoid that connects the chassis and house batteries with some intelligence fro the isolator relay delay

I replaced the Trombetta Solenoid that was seized but still have a intermitten problem with the isolator relay delay Board that I am trying to find a replacement for.
That may be my issue as well, but the solenoid still works, so for 30 bucks the Trik-L-Start seems like a good choice.
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Old 02-20-2015, 02:12 PM   #10
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Update

Trik-L-Start installed and working like a champ!
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Old 02-20-2015, 02:18 PM   #11
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Congratulations!

My first thought would've been to install it inside the electrical center box where it's nice and protected and out of the way. But now that I see your install, I think you did it exactly right so you can see the LEDs and know the status at a glance.
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Old 02-20-2015, 02:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Congratulations!

My first thought would've been to install it inside the electrical center box where it's nice and protected and out of the way. But now that I see your install, I think you did it exactly right so you can see the LEDs and know the status at a glance.
I was going to install it inside the elec box at first, but you're right, I wanted to easily check the LED's. The wires are in heat shrink and tucked behind the box so it should be OK. I don't keep much in that compartment anyway. Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dawg View Post
This is what I was referring to not the one in your pic. The lug on the left is marked 12v House Battery
NON SWITCHED, the one on the right is labeled 12v Chassis Battery. I measured the voltage on both. The 12 v NON SWITCHED measured 13.5 volts because it was plugged into shore power. The other measured 12 volts which is the chassis battery that wasn't being charged. When the switch on the dash is pushed, the solenoid clunks and the voltage goes up to 13.2 volts on the chassis
battery side showing that the chassis battery is getting boosted from the house batteries.
Red Dawg, can you tell me if you connected the trick-l-star to each side of the charging solenoid? Thank you for your help
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