Bedroom entry door

[Cyanne]

FL420.......Omg!!!! That’s it!!! Thank you thank you thank you. We are at the campground and I have to keep my toy dog crated. He is so miserable. This is what I need to
get. We are leaving today. My search starts soon as I get home

[Cyanne]

Windsorbill....yes before we left we went to Lowe’s; Home Depot all there doors were 80 and we didn’t want to risk trying to cut the top/bottom. We will take the measurements and pictures from FL420 and head to Lowe’s. Thank you all so very much.
Happy trails

[Podivin]

Originally Posted by Cyanne

Windsorbill....yes before we left we went to Lowe’s; Home Depot all there doors were 80 and we didn’t want to risk trying to cut the top/bottom. We will take the measurements and pictures from FL420 and head to Lowe’s. Thank you all so very much.
Happy trails

You're going to need a hollow core door to keep the weight down. When you cut that much off the door you'll get into the 'hollow' part of the door - which you'll find is a checkerboard of stuff that feels like strong cardboard.
Inside the piece you cut off you'll find about a 2" wide piece of wood running the entire width of the bottom of the door - you need that piece of wood.
Take the wood out, remove the veneer (the pretty stuff) from each side of the wood.
Now use a knife or chisel of some sort to cut JUST enough of that cardboard looking stuff out of the way so that you can insert the piece of wood into the door at the (new) bottom. Use Elmers or your favorite wood glue to glue it into place. This will put the strength back into the bottom of the door.

Doors tend to splinter when you cut them Use a new saw blade, not a dull one. Put tape on both sides of the door where you're going to cut, placed so that the saw blade goes through the middle of the tape - draw the line to cut on the tape itself. Cut slowly through the door, don't push the saw through as fast as you can make it go. Doing these things will greatly reduce splintering, to the point of none at all if you do it right.

[153stars]

Menards used to have section for discount doors with damaged frames ect you may find a gem . If you have to cut a hollow door more than normal might need to glue the solid wood strip back in bottom of door. Not a huge deal to get old skin layer off usually.
Yes the bigger gap at bottom is like a cold air return to furnace. 2" might be excessive . 30" door equal to 6x10 duct without a grill.

[Ndrorder]

Couple of observations. The floor plan shown above doesn't show a door between the bedroom and bathroom. The line shows the transition from vinyl to carpet. The door lines are bolder than the transition lines. The privacy door for the bedroom is the pocket door forward of the traditional toilet.


The photo's of the Monaco are probably part of a model upgrade related to being a monaco. To make use of this design, something will have to be done with the plastic trim where the hinge would mount.


Hollow core doors of this height or at least closer can often be found at mobile home supply stores if there is one near you. Oddly enough, it will probably cost more even though there is less to it.

[FL420]

Originally Posted by 153stars

Yes the bigger gap at bottom is like a cold air return to furnace. 2" might be excessive . 30" door equal to 6x10 duct without a grill.

I think you're right about the cold air return for the furnaces. The side-hinged throne room door shown in a photo in my copy of the official Monaco Knight brochure clearly shows an ~2" gap between the door and the floor.
The BR and BA areas are in furnace zone #2 but the return air intake for zone #2 is under the Norcold 4 door reefer which is located forward of the pocket door which isolates the BA from the LR area. The return air intake for furnace zone #1 is located under the fold-out shelf between the sink and pantry.
[emoji40]

[FL420]

Originally Posted by Ndrorder

Couple of observations. The floor plan shown above doesn't show a door between the bedroom and bathroom. The line shows the transition from vinyl to carpet. The door lines are bolder than the transition lines. The privacy door for the bedroom is the pocket door forward of the traditional toilet.

You're right about the meaning of the line on the floor plan but marketing department floor plans are often inaccurate or incomplete as they are in this case. The outward swinging single French BR door with the blinds closed next to the single French window with its blinds closed serve as a privacy door between the BR and the BA. The sliding pocket door serves as a privacy door between the BA and the LR.

Originally Posted by Ndrorder

The photo's of the Monaco are probably part of a model upgrade related to being a monaco. To make use of this design, something will have to be done with the plastic trim where the hinge would mount.

The French window and French door with blinds are only available in the 40PLQ floorplan and are standard equipment. The plastic "trim" you refer to is actually the door frame for the swinging door. If you look closely at Cyanne's pics in her post #5 you can clearly see the door stop strip on the door jambs.
The only difference between her door jambs and mine are that my piano hinge has 36 screw holes on 2" centers and the missing hinge that was on her door had 18 screw holes on 4" centers.
[emoji40]

[Cyanne]

Windsorbill thank you for giving the instructions for how to cut a hollow door. I would have never thought of using tape and cut through it to prevent shattering. Going to put these instructions to good use. Thank you so much

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by Cyanne

Windsorbill thank you for giving the instructions for how to cut a hollow door. I would have never thought of using tape and cut through it to prevent shattering. Going to put these instructions to good use. Thank you so much

You're welcome, but that wasn't me. Podivin described it pretty well.

If you're comfortable with modifying a stocked door, go for it. It will be cheaper than getting a custom one made on HD or Lowes. Most doors like the one pictured, will be dual glazed. If you do order it, consider a single glazed unit. It will be lighter and you really don't need the insulating qualities as a residential home application would need.

[Cyanne]

Good evening everyone. We went to Home Depot today and got a pine door. My husband had to trim the bottom of the door as well as the hinge side. He stained the door and put the hardware on. I absolutely love it and it gives us more privacy than just having curtains in the doorway. Thanks to everyone who posted.

[FL420]

Nice job.[emoji106] Both of you should be proud.
I'm amazed you were able to find a door to match the glass panels so quickly. The curtains are a nice touch. I'm not too fond of the blinds which are so easy to bump into and bend.
[emoji40]

[Cyanne]

FL420....Thank you for your help with the dimensions. We are proud. Those blinds are the next protect. You are so right. As you can see the bottom blinds are bent and trying to open them up the blind stick is hard to twist to open

[FL420]

Originally Posted by Cyanne

FL420....Thank you for your help with the dimensions. We are proud. Those blinds are the next protect. You are so right. As you can see the bottom blinds are bent and trying to open them up the blind stick is hard to twist to open

You're very welcome. I am glad to have been able to help.
As the owners of what I think is one of the best floorplans available regardless of price there is one drawback you should know about. The RVA 3 hydraulic jack manual levelling system is great in its simplicity, adjustability and reliability. Its main problem is with only 3 jacks instead of the more common and more stable 4 jack system the house part of the coach can twist slightly on other than very level campsites.
You might notice the misalignment when the new door's latch won't align properly with the striker plate on the door frame because the frame has shifted out of square almost imperceptibly. The shower door will also be hard to open and close because the door frame has also shifted slightly out of square.
If you experience these problems you and your DH will need to work as a team to have one of you checking the proper operation of all 3 doors in the BA area while the other one plays the levelling switches with a bump and check, bump and check technique or some other system you can devise.
I hope my situation is unique to my coach and you won't have any problems but if you do hopefully these tips will ease your learning curve.
[emoji40]

[Cyanne]

Originally Posted by FL420

You're very welcome. I am glad to have been able to help.
As the owners of what I think is one of the best floorplans available regardless of price there is one drawback you should know about. The RVA 3 hydraulic jack manual levelling system is great in its simplicity, adjustability and reliability. Its main problem is with only 3 jacks instead of the more common and more stable 4 jack system the house part of the coach can twist slightly on other than very level campsites.
You might notice the misalignment when the new door's latch won't align properly with the striker plate on the door frame because the frame has shifted out of square almost imperceptibly. The shower door will also be hard to open and close because the door frame has also shifted slightly out of square.
If you experience these problems you and your DH will need to work as a team to have one of you checking the proper operation of all 3 doors in the BA area while the other one plays the levelling switches with a bump and check, bump and check technique or some other system you can devise.
I hope my situation is unique to my coach and you won't have any problems but if you do hopefully these tips will ease your learning curve.
[emoji40]

Yes we have run into the problem. I have to give the shower door and extra hard pull to open and a good slam to the bathroom door. I love our coach but I did wonder why would you only use 3 jacks instead of 4. We have a 2005 I hope on the models after ours there are 4 jacks. You are so right. I love this floor plan.