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Old 04-03-2021, 09:11 AM   #1
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Best residential refrigerator for 2008 Monaco PDQ

My norcold 2010IM needs major repair, (complete cooling unit or new unit). If I decide to change to a residential refrigerator what will be the best to install in my 2008 Monaco Diplomat 40PDQ? (the refrigerator is in the slide out) There are several older posts on this subject but I am afraid the ones used back then are no longer available. I am also interested in finding someone to do the work. It seems that camping world has taken over the market in my area (Tennessee) and I do not like camping world!
If you have changed to a residential frig., how is that working for you?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
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Old 04-03-2021, 09:32 AM   #2
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Not sure on your layout and available headroom or storage space below the fridge. If you have plenty of available height, even if some cabinet work has to be done, you should be able to fit almost any counter depth ~32" wide refrigerator into the space.

The other piece of the puzzle is what type of inverter you have, some refrigerators do not like the MSW type inverters but all would pretty much work with a PSW inverter.
AJ Madison had a good search filter using dimensions. https://www.ajmadison.com/refrigerators/

Some current refrigerators that would fit do offer water/ice in the door, which is a nice option.



There was a recent pole conducted on the Monacoers.org website as to refrigerator replacement, most respondents went with the Samsung. The newest version of that is a RF18. There were only a few reports of minor problems.

I installed one of these ~2 years ago, I bought it on clearance from Lowes for $865 and did the work myself. It was not an easy job since my furnace was under my refrigerator and I had limited headroom, but I was able make it work. Unfortunately I have not given it a good test but am confident it will work fine. I actually bought it to use while building a new house and then replaced it with a newer larger refrigerator. It does cool down very quickly, and I did a test with my inverter to see how long I could expect my batteries to last.
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Old 04-03-2021, 09:40 AM   #3
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http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dipl...-276707-3.html

This post will help. The link takes you to the start of a lot of my installation but jump to the top after rolling through the posts.

I will attach more stuff that is likely a repeat of most of what was posted.

I do NOT have a heater under the refer and the roller did NOT give me much of an issue.

Brought the new refer through the drivers window via a scaffold and laying the refer on its side. Could have come through the door fine but needed two healthy strong folks for that and all I had was the Florid Biker Mobility Scooter Squad
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Old 04-03-2021, 09:41 AM   #4
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https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xqG6H...k_Fxm?e=0nUVbm
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Old 04-03-2021, 02:36 PM   #5
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Also something to think about is your inverter. If you have a PSW inverter, many fridges will work. If you have a MSW inverter, it limits your choices. The samsung Jim mentioned above, is a good choice if you have the MSW and don't want to change that out or put in a smaller dedicated PSW inverter. I have a MSW inverter with the Samsung and it really works great with zero issues.

Then it's just a matter of figuring out which will fit best with minimal cabinetry work.

Some will suggest upgrading your existing Norcold to the JC Refrigeration system. That is definitely an option, but it has it's negatives as well.

The old saying "one size fits all" definitely does not apply here.
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Old 04-03-2021, 08:33 PM   #6
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You do not absolutely need to use an inverter to run one either. We have a modified sine wave inverter. We do not boondock so no need for the inverter to run the refer.

So I did not even worry myself about it being able to be run on one.
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Old 04-03-2021, 09:20 PM   #7
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I have a large MSW inverter that pulls an unreasonable amount of power when idle (i.e. without a load). I installed a small PSW inverter just for the fridge, and added a toggle switch in it's input line to shut it off when I wasn't using the fridge...

Mike
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Old 04-04-2021, 07:04 AM   #8
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I agree with adding an inverter if really needed to run just the refer. Finding a msw compatible refer could be costly and limit your choices.

The outlet for the refer is split on mine. It had one socket from the inverter and that was to run the ice maker when boondocking. When connecting the new refer I just used the non-inverted socket so could move mine at any time.

It took a lot of time and measuring and re-measuring to select a refer. Finding one that fit the height was important. Fortunately there is not a heater under mine but dealing with a slide roller presented it's own issues. It turned out to be quite simple and not serious modification was required.

The refer rests along each side sitting on a 2"x2" aluminum channel piece. It is just a raised rail along each side. Then slots were cut to allow the wheels to drop into so the refer rests on its outside edges. Trapping the top of the refer holds it down solidly.

There is plenty of room on each side and all around actually.

It is quite a project but sure worth the effort. The weight loss is significant too.
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Old 04-04-2021, 08:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherMike View Post
I have a large MSW inverter that pulls an unreasonable amount of power when idle (i.e. without a load). I installed a small PSW inverter just for the fridge, and added a toggle switch in it's input line to shut it off when I wasn't using the fridge...

Mike
Mike,

Can you post your smaller PSW inverter make/model #. I've considered doing that, but that 'project' hasn't gotten high enough up the 'to do' list.
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Old 04-04-2021, 09:05 AM   #10
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Mike,

Can you post your smaller PSW inverter make/model #. I've considered doing that, but that 'project' hasn't gotten high enough up the 'to do' list.

Bill,
I was contemplating doing the separate PSW inverter, this inverter was recommended to me by another Monaco owner.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIMS-Power-...oAAOSw6eRdeU28
The benefit is that it can also improve charge time. One way to install this, at least in my case, is to utilize the block heater circuit to plug it into, this could then be controlled by the block heater switch. In my case it could be installed in the rear near the service panel which is directly above the battery bank which would make for less voltage loss etc.
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Old 04-04-2021, 09:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherMike View Post
I have a large MSW inverter that pulls an unreasonable amount of power when idle (i.e. without a load). I installed a small PSW inverter just for the fridge, and added a toggle switch in it's input line to shut it off when I wasn't using the fridge...

Mike

X2 on the parasitic load, in the past we rarely used the inverter but with the install of the Samsung I will eventually be forced to address this issue.
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Old 04-04-2021, 08:51 PM   #12
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Mike,
Can you post your smaller PSW inverter make/model #. I've considered doing that, but that 'project' hasn't gotten high enough up the 'to do' list.
Unfortunately the manufacturer of mine is no more... one of those here-today-and-gone-6-months-later chinese brands... it was a hand-me-down from a friend who had it for a couple of years, and then upgraded to a larger unit...

...and besides, different fridges pull different amounts of power. You need to look at your fridge nameplate for the amps (or divide the watts by 120) and and then research the available inverters... round up the watts and particularly look at the surge rating since (depending on the fridge design) the compressor starting surge can be 2x or 3x the running load.

I was fortunate - I have a friend that has a peak reading ammeter and the fridge pulls around 3 amps running, but around 9 amps for about a quarter to half second... . So I was fortunate that my hand-me-down 500 watt inverter could support that surge. I was surprised.

If I were to buy one today I'd look at the AIMS brand. The web site claims they are USA-made, are sold at Home Depot, have a wide range of models, and tech support speaks english.
https: // www.aimscorp.net/12-Volt-Pure-Sine-Inverters/

Mike
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Old 04-04-2021, 09:04 PM   #13
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X2 on the parasitic load, in the past we rarely used the inverter but with the install of the Samsung I will eventually be forced to address this issue.
I have a battery disconnect that is in the + line to the big inverter... and a separate one that is in the + line to the dedicated fridge inverter. The big inverter is off whenever I'm not running an AC load. When I empty the fridge I block the door open and kill its inverter. Having those lets me individually kill two vampire loads when they are not needed.

The AIMS brand has a $35 remote panel that allows you to kill the inverter without running large diameter copper cables to husky switches. The web page says it is not for all the models, and I do not know if it kills 100% of the idle current... if you get one that is not on the list you may have to add a battery disconnect or a BRS (big red switch) in line with the inverter.

Mike
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Old 04-05-2021, 11:36 AM   #14
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One of the first things we did after purchasing our coach was install a residential refrigerator. We installed a Samsung RF18 and used the existing inverter because it was so easy. The Samsung fridge runs fine on a modified sine wave inverter. And Monaco wired a double outlet behind the refrigerator on most diesel coaches. One side of the outlet is incoming 120V power and the other is 120V from the inverter (meant for the ice maker). I plug it into the inverter side outlet and when on shore power it acts as a pass through. If I unplug (or shut down the generator) the inverter takes over automatically.
My wife says it's the best thing we've ever done to the coach.

Detailed install: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sam...re-356096.html
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