Best sealant for clearance lights.

[bjbear]

I am going to be replacing my front clearance lights because I suspect one or more is leaking. Decided to go with LEDs which I already have in hand.

My question is what is the best product to use to seal them? It needs to be something that is effective, but could if necessary be removed at a later date if I need to reseal one.

Is ProFlex a good choice? Or maybe one of the 3M marine sealants?

[Jeff753]

I used pro flex. It’s sticky. Make sure you seal the lens to avoid water getting behind the lens. I used led direct replacements from etrailer

[bjbear]

Originally Posted by Jeff753

I used pro flex. It’s sticky. Make sure you seal the lens to avoid water getting behind the lens. I used led direct replacements from etrailer

I have heard lots of good things about ProFlex. I am wondering if it is "permanent" or can it be removed in the future if I want to reset the lights?

[Bob_C]

Butyl rubber tape.....

[Jeff753]

Probably not any harder than getting off the original sealant or silicone.
I don’t know how you would seal the lens covers with butyl tape. Although I do like butyl tape for horizontal surfaces.

[Bob_C]

Didn't say lenses only.....

[Calbar]

Originally Posted by bjbear

I have heard lots of good things about ProFlex. I am wondering if it is "permanent" or can it be removed in the future if I want to reset the lights?

I have found that ProFlex gets hard, starts to crack and peel. I have started to use 3M 4000UV. It is used in a marine environment and under the water line as well. So far it has worked good for me. Comes in white and black colours.

[vito.a]

I replaced all of our clearance lights a few months ago. The original lenses had gotten hard and were cracking. I also had a few lights that were not working and I was concerned about the wiring. I used exact replacements for our lights because they fit into a recess in the fiberglass cap shaped like the light. I had five amber front lights, five red rear lights, and one amber on each side in front of the rear tire. I was able to Google search using the model on the old lenses and found them online. They were only $1.41-2.41 each. I found them at RV & Auto Parts.
Phone: 760-651-4005
https://www.rvautoparts.com/Clearance_c_7982.html

Our original clearance lights were sealed around the base with white silicone. I used the same method but also sealed the small hole in the cap where the wires come through with silicone. After the lights are screwed down I went around the edges with a paper towel and wiped up the excess. None of the silicone is exposed.

After you cut the wires, you need to make sure they do not pull back inside the cap as they are difficult to fish out. I used a hemostat to hold the wires while i worked.
The lights that were not working had some corrosion on the blue wire butt connectors. I used the heat shrink style butt connectors to prevent this from happening again.
It's nice to have all the lights working now and I plan on going back and replacing the bulbs with an LED bulb.

[450Donn]

Butyl putty tape first, screw light down, follow around three sides with Dicor or what ever you prefer except silicone.

[bjbear]

Originally Posted by vito.a

I replaced all of our clearance lights a few months ago. The original lenses had gotten hard and were cracking. I also had a few lights that were not working and I was concerned about the wiring. I used exact replacements for our lights because they fit into a recess in the fiberglass cap shaped like the light. I had five amber front lights, five red rear lights, and one amber on each side in front of the rear tire. I was able to Google search using the model on the old lenses and found them online. They were only $1.41-2.41 each. I found them at RV & Auto Parts.
Phone: 760-651-4005
https://www.rvautoparts.com/Clearance_c_7982.html

Our original clearance lights were sealed around the base with white silicone. I used the same method but also sealed the small hole in the cap where the wires come through with silicone. After the lights are screwed down I went around the edges with a paper towel and wiped up the excess. None of the silicone is exposed.

After you cut the wires, you need to make sure they do not pull back inside the cap as they are difficult to fish out. I used a hemostat to hold the wires while i worked.
The lights that were not working had some corrosion on the blue wire butt connectors. I used the heat shrink style butt connectors to prevent this from happening again.
It's nice to have all the lights working now and I plan on going back and replacing the bulbs with an LED bulb.

Great advice.....Thanks. I already have the lights which like you I found by referencing the number on the old ones. I am leaning towards using 3M 4000/4200 considering how exposed they are to rain and weather.