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Old 07-29-2017, 09:26 PM   #1
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Brake inspection

I was in Phoenix and had an outfit inspect my brakes for over a hundred
dollars but I think all they did was a pad inspection. The ABS light is on and
I feel like the front brakes are doing all the stopping. By watching the tire temps. the left front gets the hottest followed by the right front but the rear tires do not increase their temps. Does anyone know of a good company to take a motor home into in either Grand Junction Co or Denver Co? We are full timers and we will be going thru there next week. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 07-30-2017, 07:31 PM   #2
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I don't have temp on my tire sensors so can't compare as to what mine does but on most vehicles the front does do most of the braking so they would get hotter. I do have a thermo gun and check my hub temperatures religiously, you may consider buying one and confirming the temp variations, I bought mine at Harbor Freight.

My Windsor has drum brakes all the way around, not sure what the 2003 has so it may not be comparable. I do a visual inspection of my brake pads when I lube the coach. I have ~107K miles on it, the pads are still +60% (or more).

The other issue of the ABS light. On my Windsor I can pull the fault codes for the ABS system, the ABS module is in the front drivers side electrical compartment. It is ~3X4" and has a black button with an LED light next to it. I can retrieve the codes by turning the ignition key on (don't start engine), press the brake pedal 1 time, go out and press the button for ~1 second. It will then start the blink code sequence. If there are no stored fault codes it will give a specific blink code for this. This is explained in my operating manual.

Last time I had a persistent ABS light on and checked the codes it showed the front passenger side wheel sensor out of calibration. I pulled the sensor out, cleaned it and pushed back in, drove it and the ABS light went off.
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Old 07-30-2017, 08:07 PM   #3
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Get it rolling about 10 to 15 MPH and pop the parking brake on. That will give an indication of the rear stopping power.

Heavy vehicles use more rear brake then front, just compare the shoe and drum size. If your rears weren't working, the fronts would probable be smoking.

You could try getting on some open road and do some hard stops. That may burnish the shoes and get them working better.

With the ABS light on, the brakes should defalt to regular brakes but you should find a shop who knows them.
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Old 07-30-2017, 09:04 PM   #4
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I'm not sure if you have a gas or diesel rig. If it's a gas rig, the front will be hotter. On my diesel the tire temps are all close in temps.
The ABS shouldn't have anything to do with temps.
I just changed my brake shoes on my diesel with 160K on them. They weren't even that bad. I just thought it was time.
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Old 07-31-2017, 04:31 PM   #5
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Grizz - tire temps could be a result of weight / inflation - as others have mentioned the ABS light could just need some attention to the sensors - but if you need service in Grand Junction call Fast and Easy Services or Bear alignment. don't go to the X place off 22rd....
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Old 08-01-2017, 04:45 PM   #6
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First let me say I'm sorry it has taken so long for me to respond,
I was in an area of Nevada with no cell or internet services. Thank
you all for your responses to my questions and I'll add a little more.
I do have a forty foot diesel pusher towing a Ford Escape on a tow
dolly. Prior to using the brakes to help the exhaust retard (exhaust
brake) to slow down on long down hill grades, the tire temps are
basically the same for all tires. I do have a remote temperature reader
but I have not taken a reading of the individual drums which I will
do so after going down a long grade again. Once again thank you
for your replies. Grizz_Chaser
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Old 08-01-2017, 04:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Get it rolling about 10 to 15 MPH and pop the parking brake on. That will give an indication of the rear stopping power.

Heavy vehicles use more rear brake then front, just compare the shoe and drum size. If your rears weren't working, the fronts would probable be smoking.

You could try getting on some open road and do some hard stops. That may burnish the shoes and get them working better.

With the ABS light on, the brakes should defalt to regular brakes but you should find a shop who knows them.

Dont Do This! Applying your brakes at that speed if they are Drum, and possibly at the end of their life, Thin Linings, Can cause the full rotation of the "S" cam and then you ARE stuck. You will have an emergency road call to rotate the "S" cam back to travel mode. I would guess your linings are at the end of life, or just out of adjustment
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Old 08-01-2017, 05:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 1doodadd View Post
Dont Do This! Applying your brakes at that speed if they are Drum, and possibly at the end of their life, Thin Linings, Can cause the full rotation of the "S" cam and then you ARE stuck. You will have an emergency road call to rotate the "S" cam back to travel mode. I would guess your linings are at the end of life, or just out of adjustment
Stepping on the service brake will apply more force to the brake shoes then the spring brakes.

If the S cams are going to flip, I would rather have it happen in a test, rather then in an emergency stop, on the road.

Besides the OP says he had the linings checked.
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