Brake pad replacement now overheating rr brake

[96 Wideglide]

Unbelievable !

How many times does it need to be said......

These are AIR BRAKES!!!!!!

There are no hydraulic brake lines to collapse!

[angelman]

found this from 2011.

Thanks, The brake pads crossed over to a Rockwell 4 pad Kit number KSR7017173. I was able to get them locally for $286 and the rotors were $235 each tax included.

Fortunately the tag brake shoes were fine and the front disc also. Someone had greased the rear calipers which increased the pressure on the pads and caused them to wear excessively. There is a warning about that in the manual and specific instruction on how to apply grease to calipers.

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by angelman

My next project is the fuel sending unit made by Centroid of Edgewater Florida. Monaco wanted $292 so it will interesting to see what the manufacture can do. I will let you know what I find out.

Been several years, but I found Centroid very helpful to deal with directly. Be sure to get a new gasket along with the proper sending unit.

[LETMGROW]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Unbelievable !

How many times does it need to be said......

These are AIR BRAKES!!!!!!

There are no hydraulic brake lines to collapse!

Let's do it again.
AIR BRAKES!

[joeplazek]

Originally Posted by angelman

found this from 2011.

Thanks, The brake pads crossed over to a Rockwell 4 pad Kit number KSR7017173. I was able to get them locally for $286 and the rotors were $235 each tax included.

Fortunately the tag brake shoes were fine and the front disc also. Someone had greased the rear calipers which increased the pressure on the pads and caused them to wear excessively. There is a warning about that in the manual and specific instruction on how to apply grease to calipers.

We have had a auto greaser on this unit since new. Every pad change (2 times now) I have backed the caliper right off and purged all the grease out (by the Meritor Manual). It was one of the first things I thought about actually and went under and did it again to make sure all the grease was out.


joe

[joeplazek]

Originally Posted by tropical36

Many times when you replace the pads, one has to open the caliper so wide, it gets into old corrosion and such for making it stick.
Did you high temp grease the pins during assembly is one thought before replacing the caliper.
Also the brake hose is highly suspected here and especially if they are original. What happens is that they collapse internally and for not allowing the fluid to return to the master cylinder. Been there and done that as well.

I believe you are half correct here. I believe the new pads were put in on the old crude and corrosion (my fault) and were bound up. I need to get a test drive in to verify. Will update. These are Air Brakes and not juice.

[96 Wideglide]

Your lucky!

The calipers they were installing on later models are sealed throw away models.

No grease zerks!

[edge68474]

I want to see the solution on this one. Thank you.

[MatthewChase]

I have your coach, same year, same brakes, had the same problem. You need to rebuild the disc brake caliper. It’s not hard, just heavy. The caliper has a piston that slides in and out to squeeze the pads. That piston will get cocked slightly and hang up on the walls around that piston when it has not been greased in a long time.

When I took mine apart there were many small dings where you can see the piston got stuck. I used a cylinder hone from harbor freight and some 220 grit sandpaper to smooth the piston and guide. I’ve never had any issue since.

If you don’t do this, your next problem will be brakes that don’t release, overheated rotors, and a burning smell from the rubber abs sensor catching fire. Trust me, I know…

You have same exact brakes on your front as well, just smaller actuators.

[tropical36]

Originally Posted by joeplazek

I believe you are half correct here. I believe the new pads were put in on the old crude and corrosion (my fault) and were bound up. I need to get a test drive in to verify. Will update. These are Air Brakes and not juice.

Gottcha on the ...no juice... and what I get for assuming without checking out a ...1996 Monaco Signature...for what it might be.

[joeplazek]

Originally Posted by tropical36

Gottcha on the ...no juice... and what I get for assuming without checking out a ...1996 Monaco Signature...for what it might be.

Sorry as we know our rig but we forget others don't.



joe

[joeplazek]

Originally Posted by MatthewChase

I have your coach, same year, same brakes, had the same problem. You need to rebuild the disc brake caliper. It’s not hard, just heavy. The caliper has a piston that slides in and out to squeeze the pads. That piston will get cocked slightly and hang up on the walls around that piston when it has not been greased in a long time.

When I took mine apart there were many small dings where you can see the piston got stuck. I used a cylinder hone from harbor freight and some 220 grit sandpaper to smooth the piston and guide. I’ve never had any issue since.

If you don’t do this, your next problem will be brakes that don’t release, overheated rotors, and a burning smell from the rubber abs sensor catching fire. Trust me, I know…

You have same exact brakes on your front as well, just smaller actuators.

Thanks Matt. And your phone number is in my phone. I will PM you mine so you can do the same.



joe

[GMJDW]

The Meritor requires a clay base grease and they have specs for the grease. They indicate that regular grease especially if over greased will expand and lock the caliper

Here is how Meritor says to grease calipers:
a) remove the poppet fitting
b) pump Meritor pt# A1779W283, which is NLGI#1 grease, into the 2 grease fittings until fresh grease comes out the poppet fitting hole.
c) release the pawl on the slack adjuster and adjust or loosen it(lengthen stroke) fully which is about 4 or 5 360 turns of the adjuster. This will force excess grease out of the poppet fitting hole.
d) reinstall the poppet valve/fitting
e) re tighten(shorten stroke) of slack adjuster fully until pads are clamping the rotor, then release the pawl again and loosen/release(lengthen) stroke 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

[oilcan]

read your post and most replys after 25 plus years of over the road trucks and trailers I am inclinde to agree with jacw james you either have a sticking caliper or a restricted air line highly unlikey caused by a warped rotor as a warped rotor would cause a very decirinable vibration easily noticed upon brake application I would put my 2bits on a sticking caliper just a thought