Bypassing salesman switch

[danes-on-tour]

A salesman switch is located just inside the entry door and is also known as a battery cut-off switch.

The RV salesman can turn on and off all 12 volt outlets and switches by pressing just that one switch. That way he can save 12 volt battery power in one easy operation.

RVers are known to press that switch accidentally and then wonder why all 12 volt power is no longer there.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by danes-on-tour

A salesman switch is located just inside the entry door and is also known as a battery cut-off switch.

The RV salesman can turn on and off all 12 volt outlets and switches by pressing just that one switch. That way he can save 12 volt battery power in one easy operation.

RVers are known to press that switch accidentally and then wonder why all 12 volt power is no longer there.

Yup ... In older RVs, this function (battery disconnect) was done with a mechanical switch located near the batteries ... but then you might get dirty ...

[94-Newmar]

Contrary to popular belief, the coach manufacturers do not install a house battery disconnect for the benefit of the salesman. This is nothing more than a huge dose of misinformation, and a bane for those of us who work on these units daily.

There are a variety of reasons to leave the house battery disconnect intact as it was intended from the manufacturer including the ability to stop house battery draining due to parasitic draw, maintenance/repair of any internal 12vdc wiring, charging, etc etc. Modifying the intent, design and installation of very high amperage DC wiring connections such as in this case is asking for trouble down the road. Whenever I see large doses of electrical tape around connections performed by unqualified individuals, I cringe. I work on these things daily, I see all types of incorrect and improper repairs. Seeing this type of electrical "hack", the reference to the disconnect solenoid as being a "black thing", makes me queasy. In reference to your question on the voltage loss through the disconnect, yes it is possible to have a voltage loss through the solenoid however it would not only affect your awning, it would affect any 12vdc circuit in the house. In all my years I have never seen a house or chassis disconnect lose 2-3 volts in the 2" space from one side to the other. Disconnect failures are almost always related to the internal coil that operates the solenoid, or burnt contact points within resulting in zero voltage being passed while engaged.

To properly address your original concern of accidentally bumping the disconnect switch to an off position, there are huge varieties of latching/covered disconnect switches that can replace your OEM switch. The switches cannot be accidentally bumped and require either lifting a cover, removing a pin, or having to push a lock button before toggling the switch to engage/disengage the disconnect switch. This allows for the wiring in the BCC/Electronics bays to stay intact as it was designed, tested and proven from the manufacturer. It also will prevent the next owner of your coach from an expensive repair bill whenever they have a tech look at the coach for some other repair and he/she is looking trying to find out why things aren't working as they should and wiring diagrams no longer match.

I mean absolutely no disrespect to you. I am merely posting this for others who may happen across this thread and feel that there is any benefit to performing a "hack" such as this.

[MandG-Fun]

94-Newmar... here is my concern with the solenoids associated with the salesman switch. They draw a lot of current 24/7 and we do a lot of dry camping. I've never measured the current draw but all you have to do is touch the solenoids and they are always hot. I even replaced mine to ensure that it wasn't a case of partially burned contacts causing higher resistance and the new ones ran hot as well.

I am open to hearing the reasons for the salesman switch and the associated solenoids v/s simply flipping the house battery disconnect which will accomplish the same result of killing power to the house.

As mentioned by KIX, I simply moved the leads on the solenoid to the same terminal, effectively removing the solenoid from the circuit with a clean connection between the cables and no ugly splice and then removed the wire from the switch, cut off the connector and capped the end.

Bottom line, it would take me 5 minutes to re-instate the function of the solenoids which I would do if there is a compelling reason to do so. Otherwise, I'm happy to save the battery drain.

[danes-on-tour]

94-Newmar

I am really sorry that my lack of knowledge is making you sick. Had I known this I would have chosen my words more carefully.

[William Willard]

Originally Posted by danes-on-tour

94-Newmar

I am really sorry that my lack of knowledge is making you sick. Had I known this I would have chosen my words more carefully.

Dane -- I`ve told you about making people sick -- William Willard

[Dr4Film]

Originally Posted by danes-on-tour

I would like to bypass the salesman switch and make things look like this:



My system look like the photo below, and I am wondering what the purple wire on the left is doing, and if I should do something with this, as it will become "a loose end" when I take out the big(ish) "black thing" that the red wires was connected to?

What is the small circuit board that is attached to the "black thing" doing?.

The simplest method to bypass the useless solenoid is to remove the purple wire, fold it and put some tape around the end and zip-tie it out of the way.

Then remove the large RED cable from the right-hand side of the solenoid when looking at your photo and see if it is long enough to reach the left-hand side of the solenoid. If so then attach it to that post. if not, then remove it and replace with a longer cable which you can purchase at NAPA. It should be a similar gauge wire with eyes on the ends.

This renders the useless solenoid totally USELESS except for being an attachment device for the cables.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[Gorlininc]

Richard
I agree. I did that exact same thing. If for some reason you can return it back.
The switch can be replaced with an on/off switch and used for something else.
Rick

[Dr4Film]

Rick,

That's correct, the purple wire can be used for another purpose and the momentary switch can be replaced with a simple On/Off switch if needed.

The post of the solenoid is a simple way to connect all of the wires together. So the useless solenoid ends up having SOME useful purpose.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

Rick,

That's correct, the purple wire can be used for another purpose and the momentary switch can be replaced with a simple On/Off switch if needed.

The post of the solenoid is a simple way to connect all of the wires together. So the useless solenoid ends up having SOME useful purpose.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

X2 !!

[RustyTools]

Call it a 'Salesman Switch' or whatever anyone chooses, the overall purpose is the same... it disconnects 12v from most of the interior circuits when desired. When (and not IF in a lot of our experiences) the solenoid fails, however, and the ability to operate those internal circuits is gone, remember that one of the circuits it takes off-line is the air-conditioning controller (at least on Monaco products, no idea about other brands, eh?).

I came home to mine one day after it quit in So Florida last year, and fortunately it hasn't gotten too hot inside, because our dog wasn't in much discomfort .... yet.

You can be very very sure I didn't mind one bit being out in the August sun right then and there jumpering that fat red wire around the switch.

IMHO, a major problem just waiting for something to happen. Taping it may not be the best idea, but get the solenoid out of the circuit.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Call it a 'Salesman Switch' or whatever anyone chooses, the overall purpose is the same... it disconnects 12v from most of the interior circuits when desired. When (and not IF in a lot of our experiences) the solenoid fails, however, and the ability to operate those internal circuits is gone, remember that one of the circuits it takes off-line is the air-conditioning controller (at least on Monaco products, no idea about other brands, eh?).

I came home to mine one day after it quit in So Florida last year, and fortunately it hasn't gotten too hot inside, because our dog wasn't in much discomfort .... yet.

You can be very very sure I didn't mind one bit being out in the August sun right then and there jumpering that fat red wire around the switch.

IMHO, a major problem just waiting for something to happen. Taping it may not be the best idea, but get the solenoid out of the circuit.

Remember when you just got a high quality switch?

Perko 9601DP Marine Battery Disconnect Switch : Amazon.com : Automotive

[Dr4Film]

Yes, but the Sales People were TOO damn lazy to open up the rear compartment and flip the Battery Disconnect Switch to OFF that is shown in your link.

So the manufacturers decided to put a simple switch inside with a solenoid that had a high failure rate.

Pretty stupid, Eh!

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[adonh]

I have the switch just inside the door, I have never used it. I would like to check this out on my Airstream 2005 Freightliner chassis. Where would I look to find the the red and purple wires and solenoid. Thanks