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Old 11-05-2018, 04:15 PM   #1
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Camelot Captain's Chairs won't move!

I noticed that the Co-pilot's chair 2-pin wiring Molex connector had previously been poorly repaired. Probably from being rotated over 360 degrees instead of returned to its starting position. It seemed to be working fine so it went on my list; "needs attention". 1500 miles down the road, there's no response to any of the controls. Check the bad connection and one of the pins has puled loose. Temp. repair (traveling) produced no fix. Checked +12V and it was present. No go. I don't see a fuse for the chairs on my cheat sheet. Any ideas of where to go from here?


Stumped again by electric issues!
Dale
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:18 PM   #2
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How about the ground. 12+ side is only half of the equation.
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:39 PM   #3
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How about the ground. 12+ side is only half of the equation.
Well, I'm unsure of how to check the ground. A multi meter is new to me. If there was a faulty ground when I read +12v wouldn't that be a zero reading or at least lower than +12v? I checked some other leads and did come up with almost identical readings.



So I started checking for voltage at various locations between the floor connector and the motors in the bottom of the seat. I even took the seat off of the steel base plate and laid it on its back to better access. I found voltage at the switches on the sides of the seat, but I didn't find voltage at the motors. All 4 motors? No loose connectors. No cut wires. I can't imagine that all 4 motors would go out together.
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:07 PM   #4
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When putting one multimeter lead on one side of the switch and the other lead on a steel part is that where you get a reading? And if you toggle the switch do you see a reading on the other side of the switch? If so your switch is ok.
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Old 11-09-2018, 04:05 PM   #5
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Sorry RockyMtnRide, I've been consumed with 4 other issues and then there's the other part of our life! Lol. Thank you for your patient instructions. "The side of the switch", meaning one or other contacts? some of the switches have 4 contacts. Power & ground and perhaps in & out or on & off?


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Old 11-09-2018, 07:40 PM   #6
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Dale. I think you’re right if the switch is dual function it will have more than one set of contacts. To confirm the contact inside the switch is closing you’ll need to check for voltage on both sides. Red lead to switch and black lead to something grounded on the power source side. Then do the same on other side of switch also to ground after you activate the switch. This will be the side connected to the motor. If you have voltage here you should have voltage at the motor
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:41 PM   #7
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Dale. I think you’re right if the switch is dual function it will have more than one set of contacts. To confirm the contact inside the switch is closing you’ll need to check for voltage on both sides. Red lead to switch and black lead to something grounded on the power source side. Then do the same on other side of switch also to ground after you activate the switch. This will be the side connected to the motor. If you have voltage here you should have voltage at the motor
The first thing I should have checked was the mini breaker (F88, 20A) on the PCB. I swapped it with the 15A unit in F87 and the seats worked fine. Wish there was better descriptions on the cheat sheet. Anyway, that problem is hopefully in the rear view mirror. I'm grateful for your help and knowledge.


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Old 11-11-2018, 08:44 PM   #8
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RockyMtnRide,


I'm curious why I was able to read 13.65VDC at the power wire coming out of the floor and going to the motors if the fuse was bad? Any idea?


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Old 11-12-2018, 04:48 AM   #9
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Quote:
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RockyMtnRide,


I'm curious why I was able to read 13.65VDC at the power wire coming out of the floor and going to the motors if the fuse was bad? Any idea?


Thanks,
Dale
Dale,

Me again. If the self-resetting fuse was defective it could still possibly allow a closed circuit when the current demand was small as in the case of a voltmeter. A voltmeter is a high impedance device and places an extremely small load on the circuit that is being measured. That could explain why you read 13.65 VDC as being present when you use the meter. As soon as the high current demand of the chair loads the circuit the fuse may open. Defective circuit breakers are common and usually trip at a lower current demand than they are designed for.

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Old 11-12-2018, 06:02 AM   #10
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Bob has your answer.

This is a reason to use a 12 volt test light. Unfortunately some new ones use LED's and do not put a decent load on the circuit.

Find one that uses a real light bulb. As Bob says a weak breaker contact can allow voltage to pass but once under load the voltage will drop.

As for the breakers, you can use a fuse in their place while testing. Seats don't have much if any travel limiter switches so they rely on you releasing the button. A fuse would open if held to long so you would be chasing blown fuses all the time. The breakers just reset themselves after they cool off a bit.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:44 AM   #11
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Bob & Myron,


Thank you. Your explanations are excellent and clear. It's hard to even see F87 & 88 on the board with all the spaghetti! Have new mini breakers on the way.



Learning...


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