Community Forums

GPrix11 · 03-23-2022, 07:58 AM

My 2004 chassis batteries were not being charged by the inverter when on shore power. I was always worried about having enough power to start (therefore not acceptable). I took all the batteries out, cleaned, replaced some cables and installed new chassis grp 31 batteries (had 8D in it when I bought it). In the process of cleaning up the battery trays etc, I discovered an Xantrex echo-charger mounted in the rear battery compartment. It was not hooked up to any battery banks. I hooked it up and the LED did not light, but I left it hooked up for a week while on shore power and the new chassis batteries proceeded to go down to 12.3 in a week. I ordered a new Xantrex echo-charger for about $135 and installed it. It has worked perfectly since. It charges appx 1/2 volt lower than the house batteries when on shore power. I also unplugged from shore power and the echo charger stays on. The result is that after 2 weeks with no shore power, and both battery switches turned off (echo is wired direct to both banks so it always has power) house batteries are at 12.9 and chassis is at 12.8. I am happy!

GPrix11 · 03-23-2022, 08:02 AM

I should also say that the Echo unit only has 3 wires, 1 to house bank, one to chassis bank and 1 to ground. It couldn't be more simple or easy because it does not attach to any other system on the coach. To clarify, my Monaco is 2004 not the chassis batteries.

THenne1713 · 03-23-2022, 02:29 PM

I have had some argue that (some) use only One solenoid (vs two) for both BOOST and CHARGE while driving, but I dispute that, contending that they are simply not shown on same wiring diagram, and schematic names/ availabilities do not match MY "preferences"; but are in fact shown on separate diagrams. (The simple IGN=ON= CHARGE type circuit does not use an IRD/BIRD, but chassis can be charged from shoreline manually using the BOOST switch, assuming solenoid/all connects properly vs "appeared to work but did not". BEST PRACTICE is to test/ verify charge voltage connections at (batteries) to ensure proper operation and understanding of same? There are variations in design and Sequence of Operation. Write down (or find written) what you think it is, then verify?

Others, using IRD/BIRD charge either LOW battery/ battery set, with some preference to chassis, when it senses CHARGE VOLTAGE AVAILABLE with one/both battery set/s low. I Believe I have also read, as example, that chassis must be charged to a certain point before some will charge coach? If so, a BAD BATTERY could STOP the sequence, and prevent coach charge, as could failure of any other component in the system? Good Luck

YC1 · 03-23-2022, 04:46 PM

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xjk3B...r3hO0?e=KGFjVU

There are some fresh files in this link not posted previously.

There is plenty of reading there and anyone should be able to glean enough information to sort out how their system is designed.

Holiday1 · 03-29-2022, 12:33 PM

Thanks, installed the new intellitec board in 15 minutes and it works great.
Thanks again.

Doug
Holiday Rambler Endeavor 2007
Chevy Equinox 2019
RVi brake

YC1 · 03-29-2022, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Holiday1

Thanks, installed the new intellitec board in 15 minutes and it works great.
Thanks again.

Doug
Holiday Rambler Endeavor 2007
Chevy Equinox 2019
RVi brake

Where did you get it? And what is the part number. I am interested to see if you got a BIRD or an IRD and want to put the part number and supplier in my archives for future help.

Thanks,
YC1

153stars · 03-29-2022, 07:03 PM

YC1 , thanks on behalf of many us for what you share. I was just saying .There's been a wave of isolator/combiner and DC to DC chargers posts. With some great explanations how each work ect. A compiling of different type with pics into one sticky or in file section would be nice to point people to. I will take a much better look of collection when on a PC and not after 12hr shift.
.

YC1 · 03-30-2022, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 153stars

YC1 , thanks on behalf of many us for what you share. I was just saying .There's been a wave of isolator/combiner and DC to DC chargers posts. With some great explanations how each work ect. A compiling of different type with pics into one sticky or in file section would be nice to point people to. I will take a much better look of collection when on a PC and not after 12hr shift.
.

Every year as folks get their toys out to play with close to Spring time the same questions come up over and over. If I did a search on BIRD there would be enough reading for a week.

There are many versions of the "kleenex", setups. Slight differences from year to year and of course mfgr to mfgr.

Drilling down and asking twenty questions to get to know how the folks systems are supposed to work before diagnosing them can be challenging but fun. Sorting through all of the possible suggestions is difficult for folks having those issues.

I specialize in knowing a few models of the Monaco/HR line but not all for sure. Over the years I have gathered lost of information on year and models but even over the course of the same year there can be changes or things previous owners changed.

To add to the confusion there are many great products out there that are basically plug and play. The Blue Seas device is not exactly a plug and play device but a heavy duty solution for sure.

In the past when the BIRD board for my 2008 Endeavor was not available I found a device that did a decent job and still have it in my parts cabinet.

The original design of the little BIRD board inside the front run bay of the 2008 was simple and very effective but knowing that the solenoid it drives is subject/prone to failing I keep a spare. I do not keep a spare of the little control board.

I have given access to my hundreds of files with over 6 GB of data gathered over the last ten years or so, including the full factory CD that has parts and schematics. At one time burning DVD's with that information was the only real way to get the information into as many hands as possible.

With Onedrive it is easy to share just a few files or the whole pile of them and getting those out there is important because of the orphan status of our coaches.

Sorry, didn't mean to go long.

Cheers.

153stars · 03-30-2022, 11:01 AM

Yeah you think you know black box bird module then see on circuit board version.
I remember following post of less popular stand alone charger . I can't remember if it was AC or DC to DC for sure. I thought... for sure that's discontinued. It was robust 70s looking design by eye, A black box with fuses in front I think. I can kind of see image in my mind. Low and behold member posts a link. It's still available ,not a bad price either for what it was. Now it bugging me... I'm terrible at names of anything.

Iceclimber · 03-30-2022, 11:16 AM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am going to try this. I'm going to disable the boost from the coach switch and if I need a boost for some reason I can walk back and push the button. I figure if I have an issue I am going to have my head in there anyway. So, alternator should charge house, inverter should charge chassis. In theory.

YC1 · 03-30-2022, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iceclimber

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am going to try this. I'm going to disable the boost from the coach switch and if I need a boost for some reason I can walk back and push the button. I figure if I have an issue I am going to have my head in there anyway. So, alternator should charge house, inverter should charge chassis. In theory.

If you have a diesel you might reconsider. I did not drill down deep on the capacity of the device but at a glance it shows 140 amp capability.

In a jump start situation you would want to have the device combine the batteries and give it 5-10 minutes to hopefully not overload the device.

Diesel starting currents can be horrendous.

Holiday1 · 03-31-2022, 11:02 AM

YC1

I installed the Intellitec bi-direction isolator. I have 8 100 watt solar panels on the roof. With the ground power off both sets of batteries now charge to 13 + volts during the daylight. And, 13+ with the ground power on. Now though, at night the coach batteries with lights and tv on drop down to 12.4. This has always been the case. But now, my chassis batteries also drop to 12.4.

Doug

Holiday1 · 03-31-2022, 11:47 AM

YC1

My question is the green wire to the solenoid is no voltage. The solenoid at the battery is not hot. How are the chassis batteries getting charged now? They never were charged before from solar power. Also, with ground power off, the never lost that much voltage overnight.

Doug