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Old 05-14-2009, 09:16 AM   #1
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Chassis Grease Fittings

It is time for the chassis on my 08 Monaco Dynasty to get greased. There was a post on this forum that listed an e-mail address where I could get a schmatic of where all of the zerks were. Now I can't find it. Can I get some help?

Also, to any of you that have done this, I could use a little of your experience...... of what to do and not to do.

Thanks.

Becker
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:26 AM   #2
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Hi becker

I am pleased "to get to know you" - I notice that this is your first post !!

I have a Diplomat so my zerks may be in a different location from yours, so I unfortunately can't help you locating these.

What i can tell you is that in my opinion you are doing the right thing by greasing the zerks yourself. I won't trust anyone to do this for me. They will overlook something I am sure.

Here is another important tip for you: Don't grease your zerks wearing your "Sunday best" clothes. I have done this, and it doesn't go down well with the wife. Trust me on this one.

See you around
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Old 05-14-2009, 12:46 PM   #3
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becker.....Monaco sold a 3/8" thick paperback manual called the "Roadmaster Chassis and Lubrication Guide" that showed how to service the Roadmaster chassis including grease fitting locations, reservoirs, brake lube, driveshaftlube, oil requirements, etc. It's invaluable if you're a DIY type.

It use to sell on their website for $15.00. It's about 45 pages long with several pages for tracking service. The website is temporarily closed, but I beleive people said they were still able to order parts via email.
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:41 PM   #4
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Welcome to irv2.com, you'll learn a great deal on this website. keep comming back. We all learn from each other.

In the back of your owners manual, (if you have one) there should be a picture of your chassis that has arrows pointing towards each zert with a number that corrosponds to a legend that discribes the part that the zert is on. This is also a lubrication chart. Well, at least MY manual has this for the Roadmaster chassis for my Safari Cheetah which was built by Monaco.
Good luck.

Oh yeah, I found that wearing a headlamp really helps while you are under the motorhome. It also leaves both hands free for work.

Tom
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:16 PM   #5
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Chassis Grease Fittings

From a Junior Member to all you Senior Members...... Thank you all. I am actually looking forward to this. I spoke to the Monaco tech department today and they are not doing anything except answering questions. He said there was only 5 of them there and one in the parts department. They are taking inventory and awaiting direction from the new owners. He sounded upbeat and I sincerely hope everything works out. Monaco is a good coach.

Again, I appreciate your input. I hope I can in the future add my suggestions to this forum..... a great forum.

Becker
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Old 05-18-2009, 06:07 PM   #6
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Becker, as I am sure you know it is very important to follow periodicity recommendations for greasing, particularly for the drive shaft. I also do my own greasing and bought a Lincoln Powerluber after greasing a couple of times with a hand pump. The powerluber is quick and much easier to use since it has a long application hose and supplies lots of grease quickly.

On my drive shaft at the back of the shaft there is one zerk fitting and a vent hole at center rear. When you grease the shaft - ordinarily at 5000 mi intervals - it takes a lot of grease; you need to put your finger over the vent hole and grease until grease pushes your finger off. The grease fitting and vent hole are at one end of the shaft and you need to block the vent to push the grease to the front of the spline coupling.

Also don't forget the slack adjusters, they have either two or three fittings. These are the devices that ensure your brakes are automatically adjusted to compensate for wear.

For my coach the manual shows all the grease points and recommended intervals.

Good luck, and as suggested get a pair of coveralls and some good gloves.

Lew
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:20 PM   #7
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Be very careful greasing the slack adjusters. Normally one would pump grease until you could see it coming out near the fitting. On slack adjusters, the grease goes toward the inside of the wheel and more than a couple or three pumps and could be putting grease where it is not needed, namely inside the wheel and on the back side of the brake shoes. Get to much grease in there and you will have to pull the wheel and may have to replace the brakes.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:14 AM   #8
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Also, wear the oldest, worn out clothes you can find. If you have to crawl around on concrete expect a few strawberries on the shoulder blades. I also put heavy blocks under the frame front and rear when working under my coach. I don't think it would deflate on me but I take no chances. Ditto on the suggestion for a Lincoln pneumatic gun versus the hand type. It gets a little frustrating trying to hold the tip in place with one hand and pump with the other.

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Old 05-22-2009, 12:10 PM   #9
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I second the Lincoln grease gun. They don't lose prime and are very reliable. The Lincoln comes with a 30" hose so the gun can lay on the pavement and makes the job much easier.
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:48 PM   #10
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While under there, put a flashlight in a baggie (to keep it clean) and inspect everything you see under that chassis. Bolts, joints, bushings, everything. Make notes of things that look different or change over time or are simply not the same side-for-side. This is your chance to understand your chassis and keep ahead of potentially developing issues. Look for fuid leaks and make note whenever you see water bleeding from a freshly greased joint.

The Lincoln is really really nice, but I survive w/o one. A manual hand-grip or pistol-grip is almost a must, the lever style gun will be very hard to use w/ only 2 hands. A flex hose is also a must. Do NOT under any condition use a "high pressure" (or even a "high volume") grease gun. These guns are so labeled. You will blow seals particularly the front axle carrier seals (if so equipped). A quality manual gun will have the bleeder valve on it and will never lose prime either.

You will use about 2 full tubes (the 14oz size) of grease, you'll use maybe 1/2 - 3/4 of a tube just in the drive shaft. The u-joints should just barely seep at all 4 yokes (use one or both of the u-joint zerks to get this to happen). The driveshaft slip-joint lube trick (to avoid spewing lube when you drive off) is to pump maybe 1/2 a tube into the slip-joint. Get out and then lower the chassis (full air dump-to fully compress the slip joint) and then air back up (reinstall the jack stands) and pump some more grease. Do this until you see the weep hole weep after a lowering.

The best tip? I buy a bulk pack of those brown jersey gloves (one of the price clubs has the bulk pack) they are less than $1/pair. I'll typically use 2-3 pair per grease job. It's an ugly job. Then throw out. I have a couple pairs of Goodwill jeans and heavy shirts I use just for this glorious task too.

It's not fun, but what you learn from your inspection/greasing might keep you off the side of the road, broken down.
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Old 05-25-2009, 05:27 AM   #11
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Okay, so how do you guys get under the coach? I checked mine out and I don't believe I could squeeze in, not sure my son who is 6'2" and 150 lbs--read THIN, could get under there.

I have a Lincoln electric grease gun for my tractor--highly recommended
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptPat View Post
Okay, so how do you guys get under the coach? I checked mine out and I don't believe I could squeeze in, not sure my son who is 6'2" and 150 lbs--read THIN, could get under there.

I have a Lincoln electric grease gun for my tractor--highly recommended

It can be a tight squeeze, the rear much tighter than the front. Until I bought jack stands I aired the coach up, set the leveling jacks to touch the pavement and used a creeper. While there is little chance of the leveling jacks slipping I opted for the added security of jack stands placed under the coach frame (not suspension). I use the jacks to slightly raise the coach, place the jack stands and let the coach settle on the stands. In addition to the added safety the king pins are also unloaded and grease is better distributed.
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:24 AM   #13
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Hmm, no jacks air leveling only. I guess I could raise it up using the air system and then put blocks under the body just in case....

Pat
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Old 05-25-2009, 12:13 PM   #14
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FWIW. I was brand new to RVing. Parked too close to my brother-in-law's bushes to open the bay door to hook up the cable TV. No problem, slide under the coach from the curb side, reach up, open door, make the hook-up with the bay door open half way. Just as I finished hooking up I felt the coach settling down! Funny air sound also accompanied the downward movement. I got real lucky, it left me just enough room to sneak out. The forward jack pad decided to slowly descend down into the Florida sand and the rear air bags decided that they had better release some air to level Front to Rear! I was Very Lucky. Stupid! And, will never make that mistake again. There are many ways for the coach to let you Down.
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