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Old 01-29-2013, 11:30 AM   #1
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Check Your Fridge's Outside Access Door

I bought my '95 Dynasty (less than 50K) a few years ago from a "little old lady" who had forgotten that she had even owned an rv! So this rig sat in storage for years with low air on passenger side bags. As a result, water entered through the fridge access door, ran down the wall and across the floor under furnace. The plywood subfloor is shot in kitchen and I am about to start the repair. Ceramic tile, which doesn't run under my cabinets, should not be applied to plywood (which Monaco did in my case)so removal will be fairly easy. The point I want to make is if you have my style outside fridge door, you may have the same issues. Remove the door and look at bottom of the plastic frame that is fixed to sidewall. Mine is flat leading into fridge compartment allowing water to enter. There is NOTHING to stop water entering. After removing the frame from moho (it probably needs to be resealed anyway)I cut a piece of flat ABS about 1"H and glued it to the back edge of frame. Also, you might check your water heater door. The frame should be caulked between heater and outside frame to keep water out of your wall which will cause delamination!
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:43 AM   #2
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I have seen a lot of those issues and fixed a lot of them.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:55 AM   #3
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I never looked to be honest. I'll check my 2001 diplomat today. Thanks.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:07 AM   #4
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Good info Rick! I'll check my Windsor today!
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:45 AM   #5
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Sorry to be posting in the MONACO section but I do have a fix that worked for me on a 5th wheel several years ago. This is not exclusive to MONACO but to all RV and RV types.

As you stated, there is a flat lip around the door as a frame. In my particular case there was also wood screws in the bottom of that frame and along the sides and tops. When I pulled the wood screws out they were rusted down to the tip. The water was coming in on that flat frame and not only entering the compartment but seeping down through the screw holes, even with the screws in place, as evidenced by the rust.

My solution: Go to Loew's and purchase 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron. Remove the bottom wood screws and one or two going up the side. Cut the angle iron to fit the opening. Because of the slightly rounded corner you will not have a complete tight fit, but that is okay, cut it to the maximum length you can. i believe mine were 21 inches. I say "were 21 inches" because I had an upper and lower refrigerator access compartment.

Place one side of the cut angle iron uner the back side of the lip of the bottom frame. Replace all the screws (newer ones are better - same length). Using clear silicone or a caulk, seal the angle iron at the seam of the frame and the bend in the angle iron. At the far ends where there is a little space, use the silicone/caulk to build a dam.

Total refab time 15 minutes, less travel time to Loew's. I did not find it necessary to go up the sides with the angle iron. I never had that leak again. This was on a Montana 3400RL. The company changed the design on that enclosure where the frame now has a 1/4 or so lip on the inside portion of the frame. That may be another option, to replace the frame with a more modern day frame. I'd say the sizes is most likely the same.

Wish this had been posted in the General RV section so more would read it rather than think because it was in an owner specific thread it didn't apply.

I hope this has helped someone. I have pictures of my mod, just PM me if interested.

Happy trails.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:00 AM   #6
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Hey Marine! Just thought I'd let you know my dad's boss was Chesty Puller! He was scout/recon and charter member of 1st Marine Division. Semper Fi
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:22 AM   #7
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Wayne: I like your solution using alum angle but since I hate "chasing" parts, I used what was in garage. Just a reminder to readers when caulking/sealing,,,,,,,,,,,,be careful where you use silicone caulk for a couple reasons; 1- Silicone will contaminate any surface you apply it to and finishing in the future will be difficult. 2- Silicone absorbs moisture from the humidity in the air so you should not apply over metal,,, especially ferrous (steel) metals. 3- Silicone is a good sealer but difficult to remove. If you want a perfect caulk joint, mask area to be caulked, use wet finger to lightly smooth, remove tape and use wet finger again to LIGHTLY smooth. Use your fattest finger! LOL! Don't smear the caulk!
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:18 PM   #8
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You dad was a smart man, he was a Marine.

Semper Fi!

Outta here.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:03 PM   #9
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On both our Dutch Stars the plywood platform has been higher than the bottom of the door opening and sealed with what looks like silicone seal. Even so there has been some water get on the plywood base, just not enough to do more than water spot it.
Good info, I'd never thought of water intrusion that way.
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