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Old 05-21-2022, 09:11 AM   #1
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Clearance lights fuse

While in the process of replacing the clearance lights I popped the fuse.
The drawing of the fuse panel shows a fuse for the lights but when I went to that position there was no fuse.
Does anyone happen to know where Monaco put the fuse for the clearance lights?
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Old 05-21-2022, 10:24 AM   #2
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Are you sure they are not tied to a thermal self resetting fuse. Mine are nutted under a copper feed bus bar and wires to other studs to each circuit. A dead short can kill them. They look similar to this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K6V8IS...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-22-2022, 06:29 AM   #3
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Clearance lights fuse

I am not sure, however they have not reset.
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Old 05-24-2022, 05:32 AM   #4
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Chasing mislabeled fuse holders and multiple fuse locations in an RV can be a real challenge.

A signal tracer can really save the day. The one show is a cheap version and I have no experience with it. There are much more robust units out there. HD and Lowes usually carry them.

If you have not done so already use a voltmeter to be sure you have lost the power versus the ground. Things happen so it is better to check with a voltmeter.

Put the signal generator across the wires at any of the deal lights. Then take the sniffer and go to all of the fuse locations you can find. Poke around slowly to find a hint of a tone.

You can touch the fuses with the sniffer. It takes some practice to gain confidence but these "fox and hounds" have saved me countless hours.

https://www.amazon.com/Finder-Genera...39828688&psc=1
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Old 05-25-2022, 07:27 AM   #5
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Clearance lights fuse

Found the fuse. Replaced it and lights are working.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
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Old 05-25-2022, 12:21 PM   #6
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Great news Jim. Now do we have to shine bright lights on you and make you sweat to share just where that fuse is/was located?

Inquiring mind want to know.
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Old 05-26-2022, 11:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
Chasing mislabeled fuse holders and multiple fuse locations in an RV can be a real challenge.

A signal tracer can really save the day. The one show is a cheap version and I have no experience with it. There are much more robust units out there. HD and Lowes usually carry them.

If you have not done so already use a voltmeter to be sure you have lost the power versus the ground. Things happen so it is better to check with a voltmeter.

Put the signal generator across the wires at any of the deal lights. Then take the sniffer and go to all of the fuse locations you can find. Poke around slowly to find a hint of a tone.

You can touch the fuses with the sniffer. It takes some practice to gain confidence but these "fox and hounds" have saved me countless hours.

https://www.amazon.com/Finder-Genera...39828688&psc=1
I've got the same marker light issue (actually only on the turn signal/marker lights.) Have purchased two of these fox and hounds (first a cheap one and then an expensive one.) I've decided that I must not know how to use them because I can never get a tone more than a few feet away before it's gone.

Any YouTube videos or other instructions you can provide? Does the wire need voltage in it or does that ruin it if it does have it there??
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Old 05-27-2022, 04:24 AM   #8
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Clearance lights fuse

In my haste I misread the diagram and was looking in the wrong fuse block.
When I was able to more carefully study the diagram I noticed my error and located the fuse. It was in the location as per the diagram..
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:34 AM   #9
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"I've got the same marker light issue (actually only on the turn signal/marker lights.) Have purchased two of these fox and hounds (first a cheap one and then an expensive one.) I've decided that I must not know how to use them because I can never get a tone more than a few feet away before it's gone.

Any YouTube videos or other instructions you can provide? Does the wire need voltage in it or does that ruin it if it does have it there??"

I prefer to have the voltage off because the battery is a giant fiter and can absorb a lot of the signal from the tracer.

You need to experiment as well by removing the bulb for example. The bulb acts as a path to ground and if your issure is not a bad ground the tone signal can go to the ground side.

In some cases, connect only one lead of the tone injector versus grounding one. Just leave one dangling.

If you can visualize a blown fuse at some block you are unsure of but are sure you are not getting 12 volts to the bulb or device that needs the power, then remove the bulb or device in need of power.

This gives you an OPEN wire and the signal should flow well. If there is an actual SHORT in the fused/powered side, the signal will travel to the short and stop.

Chasing a short can be difficult because the cheapie signal generators are not the most powerful but in most cases work well enough to get by.

After my very expensive commercial "Fox and Hound" died after 40 years of loyal service I bought a couple of the cheapie ones knowing my use of them would be limited.

I'm currently on a decent one from Lowe's in a reasonable price range.

Remember, a powered circuit can sap the signal, and why would you want to chase one with power on it other that to find the location of the fuse. There coud be a good reason so turning off the batteries, solar, and shoreline would be advisabe.
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Old 06-07-2022, 09:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
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If there is an actual SHORT in the fused/powered side, the signal will travel to the short and stop.
It should travel to this point if there's a BREAK...... right?

If there's a SHORT it should go to ground..... will the signal generator work in that scenario?
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Old 06-07-2022, 01:30 PM   #11
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If I understand you, yes.

Signal travels down a broken wire and once it gets to the break, the signal will dissipate past that point almost immediately.

An open circuit is actually easier to chase the with tool because the signal should remain rather strong all along the path.

Chasing those paths can be problematic and you often have to guess where they might lead next.

In some cases, where you last find the signal with the sniffer you can then inject the signal there so it is strongest at that point and may induce the signal just a bit more along the path.

In some horrible scenarios, you may have to find another power source, fuse it and then use that to power your broken circuit.

It would be a miracle to have a diagram path of where the wires run in our RVs. I am familiar with most of the paths in mine after spending countless hours with headlamps and a stiff neck poking and prodding.
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