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Old 06-15-2018, 07:02 AM   #15
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I'm leaning towards strengthening the floor 'in any case', and like your idea.


We had a portable AC unit in the Florida room in the sticks/bricks house for awhile. Whenever the guy across the canal would start his boat, we'd immediately smell his exhaust.

Finally dawned on me that the portable AC unit wasn't a complete 'closed loop' like a regular one. It was drawing in outside air (thru cracks, etc in the house) to run across the coils to cool them, and then exhaust it out that round vent. The inside air would be closed loop, however, by being drawn across the other coils and then sent back to the room.
So in effect, the unit was bringing in outside air, cooling some of it, recirculating some of it and sending the remainder back out. It did work, but I wasn't satisfied.

{Hope that all made sense}
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:03 AM   #16
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Post a picture of the opening of the refer.

About the load/weight. Keep in mind they live on four wheels normally. That weight can easily be distributed over a much larger surface by allowing the refer to sit on its edges. I looked at mine closely and determined it was structually sound to do that.

My original floor was 1/2 inch OSB which is not that strong but it was supported along the edges and the middle. The old refer did not have wheels.

My new refer virtually sits on the slide out floor via the rails I built along the outside edges.
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:34 AM   #17
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OK, I looked at some old '08 & '09 Camelot brochures online, and it does indeed look like the frig is sitting on a shelf, with a small drawer underneath. This is borne out by the ~1x1" wood pieces surrounding the actual enclosure (see pics). When I started on this project, I didn't realize that's what they were, but now it's obvious.

Wife doesn't want the frig up on a shelf (whew! it's heavy!!), and in addition there's not much room above if I was to lift it.
Next task is to look underneath to see if it's possible to support the frig on the edges, or simply add a piece of 3/4" ply if not.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:15 PM   #18
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I sealed the vent panel with layer of foil-covered foam. The opening is weatherstripped around the edges as shown in first picture below. Second picture shows ceiling panel opening sealed with a vinyl-covered plywood, screws & caulking.


.

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Old 06-15-2018, 01:54 PM   #19
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i put foam insulation in the upper vent and covered it with a 1/8 luan. outside i removed the vent cover and used expanding foam to fill the gaps and re-installed the cover.
for the lower one i insulated the cover and made a sliding panel so i can access the back of fridge and water valve,
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:33 PM   #20
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OP which refer do you have?
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:08 PM   #21
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It's a 3-door French style Whirlpool WRF560SMY, which I believe is a 19.6 cu ft unit.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyTools View Post
It's a 3-door French style Whirlpool WRF560SMY, which I believe is a 19.6 cu ft unit.
Thanks
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Old 06-17-2018, 09:44 PM   #23
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I used 3/4" thick oak plywood from home depot for the fridge floor.
Initially I cut a piece of 3/4" pine plywood, but is was too flimsy.
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Old 06-18-2018, 11:45 AM   #24
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I had a sheet metal shop make me some painted aluminum "Z" strips. I glued them in place, sealed small gaps with caulking, then glued foam on top (backside really).


Halfway through this I thought I got way too complicated with it. Seems to work.
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Old 06-18-2018, 12:19 PM   #25
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Old 06-18-2018, 12:29 PM   #26
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I just replaced my absorption with a residential this spring....

The frig compartment on mine is environmentally "outside". Basically, the exterior of the frig is "outside".

The new frig generates heat inside this compartment, so I decided to NOT completely close off the vents..

I used a piece of foam board for the top vent but cut two small 3 inch diameter holes in it so I'd get some air flow out the top vent. The foam board is held in place with aluminized tape.

I glued a piece of aluminized Reflectex to the side cover. it doesn't completely close off the openings and should get some air flow through the side cover..

Residential Frig Replacement – 1999 Southwind 35S

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Old 06-18-2018, 03:59 PM   #27
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Ideally the residential refrig should be vented inside the RV like in a house installation. This way the working compressor temp range is between 60-80 F, similar to a house inside range. If the refrig is vented or exposed to the outside temp, the compressor may be exposed to temp ranges of 0-100 F which in my case would shut the refrig down until the OS temp got back into the 40-80 F range to reset itself. Check your manufacture specs for allowed operating range.
Another lesson learned the hard way!!
Also, when I did seal off the upper and lower vents, I noticed the RV was easier to heat or cool.
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Old 06-18-2018, 04:10 PM   #28
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Not sayin' that motorhome manufacturers don't make mistakes, but the vast majority of residential refrigerators which were manufacturer-installed in the motorhomes are vented to the inside, just like in a house. In fact, I've never seen a manufacturer-installed residential refrigerator vented to the outside.

[as to "no dust comes in through the vents" and similar comments, when I removed the Norcold to replace it with a Samsung, the Norcold had accumulated quite a bit of dirt in the decade or so of it's lifetime. Perhaps these absorption refrigerators are designed to work in this type of environment, residentials are not.]
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