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Old 03-27-2022, 10:14 AM   #15
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Your 2004 Navigator is almost a twin to our 2004 Signature. The Signature, Executive, Navigator, and for many things the Dynasty are all sister coaches.
The 12v water pump and check valve are on the passenger side last bay back mounted to the floor just in front of the water tanks. Depending on what pump you have, it may have a check valve built into it.

The valve for switching from shore water to internal is a ball valve on the driver side second to last bay, just in front of your sewer dump compartment.

Start with bypassing your pressure regulator filter at the water spigot. Then check the shore water fill ball valve.
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMark52 View Post
FWIW - ball valves come in both “standard” and “full” port designs. They are not all the same size.


I looked this up and I am not concerned with the mechanical ball valve that fills the tank etc. I'm relating to the inline check valves.

I'm not trying to steal the OP's thread. Just hoping both our inputs will solve this annoying issue.
_____________________________________________
Can you elaborate on this please.

My thought on mine is that the nice brass ones may have a stiffer spring and when shore pressure gets high enough they open fully.

Perhaps a cheaper plastic version might have a weaker spring.

I guess I will just have to tear things apart and bypass the ball valves in question on mine. If the pressure comes up then finding a lazier ball valve would be in order.
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Old 03-27-2022, 03:15 PM   #17
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I think someone has confused ball check valves for ball valves. A ball check valve has no handle. A ball valve has a handle that swings just 90 degrees from full shut to full open.
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Old 03-28-2022, 11:21 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Vamoose View Post
Thanks for all the suggestions. After trying/testing a few scenarios without joy, my next move will be to replace the pressure regulator and check valve.

THREE IMPORTANT QUESTIONS as I get started:

#1 - Does anyone know where I can find these on my 2004 HR Navigator? I suppose I would start by removing the panel covering the fill valve/faucet in the wet bay.

#2 - When I find them, any suggestions as to where to buy replacements?

#3 - While everything is disassembled, is there anything else you might suggest I test, clean, inspect, or replace???

Thanks again everyone!

Judd
I had the same problems you're describing...
If it's like my 2003 Dynasty, the built-in regulator is the actual part that incoming freshwater hose connects to. If you can get ahold of the part that the incoming hose attaches to with some plyers, you can unthread it without taking apart the wet bay. It's a simple in-line regulator like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YJJHI0
I was able to poke around up in there and back-flush the incoming check valve, which alleviate my pressure problems.
I also replaced the original regulator with a straight-through brass fitting
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MECSB5T , so now I put my pressure regulator on spigot end of the hose, and the hose is also protected from high pressure (I think that's the most likely thing to burst in the system anyway...)
Cheers,
Walter
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Old 03-29-2022, 06:35 AM   #19
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My wet bay also has inline regulator basically hidden in the plywood. It leaked, not at hose gasket but a joint built in further up. I would have removed it as well but both end are hose thread and I didn't find the parts needed at ACE they had new inline regulator . There were gray polybutylene connection lines to shower faucet that they doped and overtightened and split the swivels. I guess they didn't know there's rubber gaskets. Ace to the rescue again with new stainless braided lines.
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Old 03-30-2022, 08:45 AM   #20
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It may be as simple as extending your water hose all the way out looking for a for a kink. Once extended fill the hose to make certain. I had weak flow and I did just that, reeled it back in and problem solved. U never know it might work for you.
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Old 04-02-2022, 07:24 PM   #21
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Thanks Everyone!

Thanks to all for your suggestions. Here's how I ended up finding and fixing my water pressure problem:

In the wet bay (drivers side bay towards the rear) I removed the panel over the city water inlet. Under it I found all the original PEX (plastic crimp fit tubes) connected to a brass check valve, which was in turn screwed into a brass pressure regulator that poked downwards, below the plywood panel where it could be accessed in the bay. The pressure regulator had a swiveling female hose fitting on the end for connection to the city supply.

I did not want to disturb the original PEX tubing since it looked to be in good shape. I unscrewed the pressure regulator from the check valve. I could not remove the check valve since the upper end of it was crimp fit onto the PEX. (A wiser man would have been able to remove and reassemble the PEX, but I am not that man.)

I took it to the local RV place and the guy said that indeed the regulator was no longer functional. When I asked him how he knew that, he couldn't really say, so I don't know that I trust his opinion. But, onward...

Many will say that what I did next is a mistake... I decided to go without a new pressure regulator, and instead just rely on the regulator/filter I always use at the water source spigot. Where there used to be the old crummy regulator, I simply bought three new fittings at Home Depot (an adapter, a short length of threaded pipe, and a female swivel hose attachment) so that the new female hose fitting would reach down below the plywood panel, about where the old one did. Although it was a pretty snug fit, I put some HD adhesive around the pipe where it penetrated the 3/4" plywood, so it wouldn't tend to rotate or move up/down when I attach the city hose in the future.

After reassembling everything, the pressure in my RV is much, much improved. Whereas I used to need my pump to get decent flow, now the flow is pretty much the same whether I am using the house pump or the just the city pressure.

When I initially described my issue, I noted that the pump would run when I moved the valve lever to "Open/Fill Tank". Someone noted that that would be normal, but that I should simply turn off the pump when filling the tank. I couldn't wrap my head around how that could work, but after removing the panel and seeing the plumbing, I realize now that that person was absolutely correct. I've included a photo of the initial plumbing, before my work.

I'm going on a trip this weekend and will let y'all know how it performs. Once again, thanks to everyone for your help.

Judd
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Old 04-03-2022, 07:16 AM   #22
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I mentioned to turn the pump off and you did what I did on my coach only difference I used a quick connect on the end of the fresh water inlet so the swivel is not needed. Using the female hose connector I find is a PITA.
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Old 04-03-2022, 03:49 PM   #23
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I did a small test on my system today.

Put a pressure gauge on the shoreline faucet to start.

Disconnected the shorline reel hose and then used a hose to connect to the faucet that is on the water bay panel that is used for whatever purpose one wants. I usually use it to feed the in tank sprayer.

By doing this the hose reel and associated connections and it appears there is a check valve in place because water does not come back out the normal hose reel inlet.

My initial reaction is that the inside pressure is better by a good margin but will monitor this test for a few days to see if it really helps. If that is the case I will chase the water inlet flow and see what ball check valve is in use.
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