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Old 09-23-2020, 06:22 AM   #85
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That is great news!
The CAC being better will also help it cool better (I would think).

I sure enjoyed the power and economy of our M-11 Signature when we had it.
Great job
Windecker

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Originally Posted by joeplazek View Post
Well 550 miles on the weekend. Just took the wife, daughter and grand daughter for a road trip to our cottage. First real ride that I got to evaluate everything. All I can say is wow!! Like a different coach. The CAC leak must have been bad as now I am getting 30lbs of boost on a good grade. The Allison shifts better. The Cummins M11 is nice and free now. 8.1 miles per gallons on the trip. No leaks. All is good. I guess the lesson for me here is pay attention to the boost gauge (all gauges for that matter and never down play changes). In my defense the boost was never more than 21lbs since I took over from my dad in 2009. He always complained he had no power. The CAC my have been bad from day one,,,, who knows?


joe
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Old 09-23-2020, 01:57 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windecker View Post
That is great news!
The CAC being better will also help it cool better (I would think).

I sure enjoyed the power and economy of our M-11 Signature when we had it.
Great job
Windecker

You would think that but I have seen the opposite. Seems a little more heat generated by the added boost and power. Makes sense I guess.


joe
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Old 09-24-2020, 06:46 AM   #87
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Have been following this discussion, nice work fellows. The "mystery sensor" is exactly like on in my 97 Dynasty. On our coach, it is THERMOSTAT that controls an electric fan, behind the grill on the passenger side, designed to pull heat out of the bedroom area, I assume after engine shut down. It has a "manual switch" on the thermostat, so I know the fan will run, however, I have never actually heard it running.
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Old 09-24-2020, 07:14 AM   #88
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That would tell me the engine sensors knew it had a leak and fueled or timed fuel delivery differently. I was assuming it would take more fuel to create boost that was not getting used well (because it was leaking out).
More power does create more heat but efficient power is easier to manage (I think).

I learn something everyday!

Cry42
I did not have said fan in my Signature and don't in my Executive. What you say makes sense though.

Windecker

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Originally Posted by joeplazek View Post
You would think that but I have seen the opposite. Seems a little more heat generated by the added boost and power. Makes sense I guess.


joe
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Old 09-24-2020, 09:02 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windecker View Post
That would tell me the engine sensors knew it had a leak and fueled or timed fuel delivery differently. I was assuming it would take more fuel to create boost that was not getting used well (because it was leaking out).
More power does create more heat but efficient power is easier to manage (I think).

I learn something everyday!

Cry42
I did not have said fan in my Signature and don't in my Executive. What you say makes sense though.

Windecker



I hear you on the computer. It would make sense it would adjust for imperfections in the system. It has seemed to get better the more I drive also. This unit has been a huge learning curve. Its been fun but frustrating at the same time.



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Old 09-24-2020, 09:06 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cry42 View Post
Have been following this discussion, nice work fellows. The "mystery sensor" is exactly like on in my 97 Dynasty. On our coach, it is THERMOSTAT that controls an electric fan, behind the grill on the passenger side, designed to pull heat out of the bedroom area, I assume after engine shut down. It has a "manual switch" on the thermostat, so I know the fan will run, however, I have never actually heard it running.



So the sensor in previous conversation is the for the electric fan on the right side of the engine compartment? When I toggle the switch it comes on and runs continuously. So would that make the sensor bad? Can you leave your switch on and the fan cycles?


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Old 09-25-2020, 02:08 PM   #91
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Took the Sig in today to get the dash air charged. Advised the shop of the work that had been done and wanted them to pressurize the system before wasting 4lbs of 134r. Well,,, they called me and said get over here you have a leak (kind of expected) When I arrived they said they had found the valve on the high pressure side was leaking,, great,,, right? I left the shop to get back to my shop and 30 minutes later they called again,,, another leak. They wanted the generator slide opened because they could hear it up front. Yep ,,, leak at the evaporator housing. The best part is its covered with like a rubberized spray foam goop. They think it could be a fitting under the goop. My thoughts are its probably the evaporator core. Does anyone have any prior experiences with these units?



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Old 09-25-2020, 03:05 PM   #92
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I have been lurking on here for 5yrs i may read of one person pulling the evap cover. I hope it's not the case that it was charged and not vacuumed at one time. Was the other hole through metal line ? Freon and water in air make acid that will eat holes in aluminium and copper. Besides having full of only freon.When you vacuum for 30+ minutes it boils out the moisture, ideally should above 70f.
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:45 AM   #93
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I have been lurking on here for 5yrs i may read of one person pulling the evap cover. I hope it's not the case that it was charged and not vacuumed at one time. Was the other hole through metal line ? Freon and water in air make acid that will eat holes in aluminium and copper. Besides having full of only freon.When you vacuum for 30+ minutes it boils out the moisture, ideally should above 70f.


Actually I found the Condenser rotted and thought that was the issue. All the rear has been repaired. New Condenser , new drier , and hoses and fittings. Never imagined a problem at the front. The shop was real good as they let me take it out at no charge until I repair the front leak. Had a quick look once back to the shop and looks as if the Generator should come out to make the job more accessible. If anyone is following and have dove into this job please chime in and lend me some tips. I would think its a core problem but who knows?

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Old 09-27-2020, 09:47 AM   #94
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Joe,
What make/model/year coach do you have.
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Old 09-27-2020, 09:56 AM   #95
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Joe,
What make/model/year coach do you have.
1996 Monaco Signature.

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Old 09-27-2020, 11:07 AM   #96
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I cleaned all the rubberized foam crude off this morning. Thought I may see something obvious. NOT. The leak is coming from the small hose at the Evaporator.

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Old 09-27-2020, 11:21 AM   #97
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Here is an older post on the AC system for a 1996 Signature.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mon...ue-349591.html
The last post has some information on a new model parts. If you zoom in on the last picture with a screen shot it lists parts from the Moncao web page that dealers use for parts. It shows the condensor part number, the first column is the Monaco part numbers and the last column is OEM part nmbers. A quick search found this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VCS-Victory...YAAOSwh4BeMKCh
It also provides the other part numbers at the bottom. The only way to know if the parts will work is to get the old one out.
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:01 PM   #98
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Quote:
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Here is an older post on the AC system for a 1996 Signature.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mon...ue-349591.html
The last post has some information on a new model parts. If you zoom in on the last picture with a screen shot it lists parts from the Moncao web page that dealers use for parts. It shows the condensor part number, the first column is the Monaco part numbers and the last column is OEM part nmbers. A quick search found this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VCS-Victory...YAAOSwh4BeMKCh
It also provides the other part numbers at the bottom. The only way to know if the parts will work is to get the old one out.
Thanks. I will have a look.

joe
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