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Old 08-26-2020, 06:16 AM   #71
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I still remember the guy, Tobin (not sure about the spelling) at JB Radiator. Nice enough but boy was it hard to get him to send the seals. I think he did it just to get rid if me but hey, $130 dollars later, I had my seals and a rebuilt CAC!

Was scary pressure checking it when done. I don't recall the running pressure but I think we pressure checked it 10 PSI over, was scared it would blow up and take my head off!

I was SO happy after it was all together, nothing leaking, nothing working improperly, complete trust in the cooling system is a great thing!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeplazek View Post
You are correct on the bolted together part. Source Engineering told me that's the way they come now. The guy here just copied the original method and welded them together.


joe
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Old 08-29-2020, 01:28 PM   #72
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Got a little road test in today. As you can see nothing on the ground so all is good so far. Going to let it cool the night and do a double check on all hoses tomorrow. One question that has me thinking. My boost is up about 6lbs or so. I only seen max 22lbs with the old CAC and today seen 28lbs. Am I seeing a less restrictive CAC?

Joe
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Old 08-29-2020, 01:34 PM   #73
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If you had the CAC rebuilt/refurbished it is probably leaking less.



When I had mine out I took it to a radiator shop for cleaning and testing. When I called and asked when I could come and pick it up they said it was shot and needed to be cored.

When it was reinstalled I picked up a couple psi boost.
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Old 08-29-2020, 05:48 PM   #74
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If you had the CAC rebuilt/refurbished it is probably leaking less.



When I had mine out I took it to a radiator shop for cleaning and testing. When I called and asked when I could come and pick it up they said it was shot and needed to be cored.

When it was reinstalled I picked up a couple psi boost.


That would make total sense as the condition of every other radiator or cooler was junk. Of course the CAC has nothing to leak out so you don’t notice it.


joe
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Old 08-29-2020, 05:59 PM   #75
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When they tested mine they submerged it in a large tank and put air in it. It bubbled like a large Jacuzzi.

So it does leak, you just can't see it but your boost gauge can tell.
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Old 08-29-2020, 06:20 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
When they tested mine they submerged it in a large tank and put air in it. It bubbled like a large Jacuzzi.

So it does leak, you just can't see it but your boost gauge can tell.


I am going to pay more attention to the boost gauge now.


Joe
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Old 08-29-2020, 06:53 PM   #77
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Been lurking here. I have a DS (signature below) and have a few questions:
1. Is a hydraulic fan the best type of fan to have and do I have one? (Think yes...)
2. My coach so far cools OK... but it's vintage and 22 years old. Should I be worried about radiatior?
3. I am planning to have radiator flushed in place and replace all cooling hoses and any others connected to cooling system (i.e. heater hoses). Wondering about the cost especially as I cannot do this work myself. So how much am I looking at for this job?
4. Is an ECL antifreeze the best to use for my engine?
5. Is it OK to blow out the rads, CAC, etc. while they are still in place?
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Old 08-29-2020, 09:18 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommar View Post
Been lurking here. I have a DS (signature below) and have a few questions:
1. Is a hydraulic fan the best type of fan to have and do I have one? (Think yes...)
2. My coach so far cools OK... but it's vintage and 22 years old. Should I be worried about radiatior?
3. I am planning to have radiator flushed in place and replace all cooling hoses and any others connected to cooling system (i.e. heater hoses). Wondering about the cost especially as I cannot do this work myself. So how much am I looking at for this job?
4. Is an ECL antifreeze the best to use for my engine?
5. Is it OK to blow out the rads, CAC, etc. while they are still in place?


Not sure what area you are from but if your in a high salt area like I am then I would have your rads checked professionally. I thought i knew a little about this stuff and was caught totally off gaurd. My hydraulic cooler sprung a leak and thats when I started digging into it. Lucky I got to them when I did. Not sure on how your coach is set up as far as fans and such maybe someone here will chime in with the info your looking for.


joe
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Old 08-30-2020, 07:51 AM   #79
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Likely a question for the Dutch Star forum but I would guess the setup is similar. Also, I assume your talking about a side radiator coach.

1) I like the hydraulic fans personally. I know some of the coaches have mechanical shafts, clutches and belts that cycle on and off which I am sure works fine.

2) You should look at it at a minimum annually. Have a shop do it if you can't or if your not confident in what you are seeing.
Other than leaks that are easily identified, dirt, oil or mechanical blockage (road debris like a potato chip bag or whatever stuck in there) you want to know about the condition of the cooling fins and water jackets. The fins tend to rot over time and eventually will eat into the water jackets.

A lot of DP radiators are steel or copper, some aluminum. The steel ones tend to corrode a bit more from what I have seen.

The cooling fan mounts are very important as well. Have the fan and mount system inspected carefully for cracks or major defects. It is a good system but, you do need to insure the integrity of the fan structure.

There are hydraulic hoses in there that at some point should be replaced. In my case, I replaced all of them in my 99 when I had it and it was a bit costly. I think it was roughly $1000 for the hoses which I installed myself during my radiator rebuild. The really costly hoses were the great big ones, you might have a different setup. The smaller hoses (less than an inch or so diameter) were cheap, maybe $300-$400 or so for the bulk of them.

3) Great idea to replace the cooling hoses. You do not need anything specific for DS to do this. The hoses are likely just various diameter, various length, various angle hoses available at NAPA or where ever. A truck shop would know exactly what to do there. That should not be costly other than labor.
As long as there are no major defects found I would suspect a flush to take a couple hours given setup, flush, inspect and refill.
Hose replacements would likely take another 2 hours or so, just guessing. Hydraulic hoses much more time because they will have to be removed, duplicated then reinstalled, hydraulics purged, refilled... I would guess 4-5 hours for that part.
Great idea on the heater hoses as well. Keep in mind, they are 40 feet long! I would suspect if they are bad it would be from the heat right back in the engine bay. You could likely have them splice in new hoses from the engine bay going forward till you get to good hose, maybe 10 feet or so. A bit tough to get in there but doable. Hoses should be standard heater hoses sold by the foot in bulk, $1.00 per foot or whatever.

4)Most Diesels need additives in the coolant and we are supposed to check it each 10,000 miles or annually at a minimum.
I assume your referring to SCA in the coolant?
Again, a diesel shop should know exactly what you need but you can check online with your Cummins engine model and see what they recommend. You can purchase coolant with our without it. There is a cooling system filter in the system that looks much like an oil filter, that can be purchased with the additives in it or without the additives. You don't want too much or too little. There is a range. The shop should know what to do there but it may be good to have the information for them to be safe.

5) Yes, you can blow and flush them out in place. To remove them is a big job!
Hope that helps.
Windecker
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommar View Post
Been lurking here. I have a DS (signature below) and have a few questions:
1. Is a hydraulic fan the best type of fan to have and do I have one? (Think yes...)
2. My coach so far cools OK... but it's vintage and 22 years old. Should I be worried about radiatior?
3. I am planning to have radiator flushed in place and replace all cooling hoses and any others connected to cooling system (i.e. heater hoses). Wondering about the cost especially as I cannot do this work myself. So how much am I looking at for this job?
4. Is an ECL antifreeze the best to use for my engine?
5. Is it OK to blow out the rads, CAC, etc. while they are still in place?
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Old 08-30-2020, 08:24 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeplazek View Post
Not sure what area you are from but if your in a high salt area like I am then I would have your rads checked professionally. I thought i knew a little about this stuff and was caught totally off gaurd. My hydraulic cooler sprung a leak and thats when I started digging into it. Lucky I got to them when I did. Not sure on how your coach is set up as far as fans and such maybe someone here will chime in with the info your looking for.


joe
I'm located in Waco, TX. The coach has been mostly located in the South; it spent time in Florida, Arkansas, and I believe VA. Very little evidence of being in salt, like road salt. Basement area is in good shape.
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Old 08-30-2020, 04:37 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommar View Post
I'm located in Waco, TX. The coach has been mostly located in the South; it spent time in Florida, Arkansas, and I believe VA. Very little evidence of being in salt, like road salt. Basement area is in good shape.


In that case you should be good corrosion wise. I just looked at Windecker’s comments and he has it all covered (great to have guys like him on this forum). I never stop working on my coach as its always something. My advice would just keep inspecting and reading posts on the forum. Lots of good advice from some very smart individuals.


joe
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Old 09-22-2020, 01:49 PM   #82
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Well 550 miles on the weekend. Just took the wife, daughter and grand daughter for a road trip to our cottage. First real ride that I got to evaluate everything. All I can say is wow!! Like a different coach. The CAC leak must have been bad as now I am getting 30lbs of boost on a good grade. The Allison shifts better. The Cummins M11 is nice and free now. 8.1 miles per gallons on the trip. No leaks. All is good. I guess the lesson for me here is pay attention to the boost gauge (all gauges for that matter and never down play changes). In my defense the boost was never more than 21lbs since I took over from my dad in 2009. He always complained he had no power. The CAC my have been bad from day one,,,, who knows?


joe
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Old 09-22-2020, 01:57 PM   #83
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well 550 miles on the weekend. Just took the wife, daughter and grand daughter for a road trip to our cottage. First real ride that i got to evaluate everything. All i can say is wow!! Like a different coach. The cac leak must have been bad as now i am getting 30lbs of boost on a good grade. The allison shifts better. The cummins m11 is nice and free now. 8.1 miles per gallons on the trip. No leaks. All is good. I guess the lesson for me here is pay attention to the boost gauge (all gauges for that matter and never down play changes). In my defense the boost was never more than 21lbs since i took over from my dad in 2009. He always complained he had no power. The cac my have been bad from day one,,,, who knows?


Joe


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Old 09-22-2020, 08:03 PM   #84
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Had a request on what I did with the shrouding. I used a combination of hard black plastic and pipe insulation foam to seal the rad package off to only using fresh air from the side of the coach. The idea is to get the slow speed mode of the fans to pull good air and not have to go into a high cooling mode. It seems to work well.

Joe
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