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Old 05-23-2010, 10:33 AM   #1
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Dash A/C Problem

My dash air conditioning has never been anything to rave about since I owned this MH. This year it seems a little worse so I starting checking the temperature at the dash outlets. The coldest I've seen is 39 degrees and the warmest I've seen is 10 degrees below the outside. So if the outside is 80 the dash air could be 70. Like many things in this RV it's completely inconsistent. Sometimes it will blow 39, sometimes 50 sometimes 60. I'm thinking it just might be low on refrigerant and I plan on checking it this week. I know you can only add and check on the low pressure side but does anyone know how you can tell which side is the low pressure? One port has a red cap the other has no cap and both appear to be the same diameter although I could be wrong about that as I really didn't look all that close yesterday. I would have no problem bringing this to my service center if it's a major problem as it's still covered by my extended warranty, however the warranty company does not pay for diagnostics and I'm really doing all I can do to keep the repair costs down as they have far exceeded my wildest expectations with this MH.
Any info would be appreciated.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:04 AM   #2
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The cold or cool line is low pressure. It's usually located close to the dryer. Intermittent cool air is not normally indicative of low freon. Some dryers have a sight glass on the top, if it shows bubbles it's low on freon.
You might check your heater shut off to see if it's leaking. If the heater hoses are hot then it's leaking.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:35 AM   #3
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You have a condensor coil under the front of the MH. It will look like a small radiator and it has an electric fan on it. With the coach engine off but the ignition on and AC selected and turned on listen and see if you can hear that fan blowing under the front of the MH. Without that fan the AC will not cool very well if it gets warm outside. If not blower then check the fuse. If that is good make sure the fan is plugged in and if all looks good then undo that plug and see if you have 12 volts going to the fan. If so time for a new fan. I had to replace mine on my last MH. I saw a bunch of receipts from the previous owner where he kept on taking the MH in and complaining. Once I fixed the fan it worked great.
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigskymt View Post
The cold or cool line is low pressure. It's usually located close to the dryer. Intermittent cool air is not normally indicative of low freon. Some dryers have a sight glass on the top, if it shows bubbles it's low on freon.
You might check your heater shut off to see if it's leaking. If the heater hoses are hot then it's leaking.
The dryer is in the front of the MH the ports are in the rear next to the compressor. I look for the sight glass and see if I can find it.
I'll also check the heater hoses, didn't think of that! Thanks for the info!
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
You have a condensor coil under the front of the MH. It will look like a small radiator and it has an electric fan on it. With the coach engine off but the ignition on and AC selected and turned on listen and see if you can hear that fan blowing under the front of the MH. Without that fan the AC will not cool very well if it gets warm outside. If not blower then check the fuse. If that is good make sure the fan is plugged in and if all looks good then undo that plug and see if you have 12 volts going to the fan. If so time for a new fan. I had to replace mine on my last MH. I saw a bunch of receipts from the previous owner where he kept on taking the MH in and complaining. Once I fixed the fan it worked great.
That's the first thing I checked, the fan works just fine and you can easly hear it whenever you turn the AC on.
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:26 PM   #6
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The ports on mine are different sizes close but not the same I think if everything is working correctly you can reley on low side pressure but if something like the high pressure switch is broken the pressure can be way to high without affecting low side pressure much Also the ports are a common place for a leak
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:48 PM   #7
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"My dash air conditioning has never been anything to rave about since I owned this MH."

Ours is the same. I've gone through it several times. It's just not up to the job. In fact, over the winter it has leaked some freon and isn't working. That's the way it's going to stay.

We run the generator and use the front roof air. Works great.
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:02 PM   #8
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Don't overlook the vacuum lines going to the damper box and the control valve under the dash. This has been explained in some other threads. Some have called it the "green" line (or blue). Mine was split at the control valve under the dash. Not the same coach as yours, but the principles are the same.
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Old 05-24-2010, 05:57 AM   #9
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Ive never been a fan of stop leak on anything but you would be surprized how well brand name stop leak will work on car a/c I have a s-10 work truck that wouldnt hold a charge for 2 days put stop leak in it and recharged it its been 2 months and counting
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:43 PM   #10
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Adding Refrigerant to an R134a system can be a little tricky. R134a is does not act the same as our old friend R12. R134a is very sensitive to moisture, air, and refrigerant overcharge, in the system. By sensitive I mean if there is too much of any of these three things the system looses efficiency. Be sure to bleed air from the service lines. Even the little 'Jiffy hose' holds too much air. Only top up a system with the A/C running adding gas refrigerant to the low (cold) fitting. [low temp. = low pressure] [high temp. = high pressure] Watch the vent temperature VERY closely and add refrigerant very slowly. Just FYI, I would not even attempt a top up charge without a digital stem type thermometer. (I do not use an IR temp. gauge, way too inaccruate) Add 10 seconds of gas and close the fill valve. Monitor the vent temp on the vent with the strongest air flow for about 4 min. If the vent temperature rises, even 1 degree F. the system is probably over charged, or has excess air or moisture inside. The system refrigerant will have to be completely recovered, the system evacuated (vacuumed) and recharged to the proper capacity. If the temperature drops add another 10 seconds of gas. Watch the vent temp. You can continue adding - watching until you see the vent temp rise AT ALL. Stop at that point. R134a looses cooling capabilities very quickly with an over charge. I use to teach R12 to R134a retrofitting and have found R134a to be an excellent refrigerant but it is not very forgiving of problems in the system or poor service procedures. That is why the government forced the change-over to R134a. Most people have problems trying to charge their systems and end up taking it to a service shop. Which is what the government wants. Service shops are under very strict EPA rules against venting refirgerant and the 'do it yourselfer' is not.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:23 PM   #11
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hi , I have a 1993 dynasty 36' , 8.3 cummins, can you tell me how high does the turbo boost gauge reads. what type of generator do you have.

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Old 05-25-2010, 10:34 PM   #12
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If I am not mistaken 134 systems do not use a bubble gage any longer. When I converted my R12 to 134 the A/C guy told me that the bubble gage was no longer useable.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:17 AM   #13
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Bubbles in a Reciever Dryer is an indicator of system charge. In a system using R134a, Bubbles (Gaseous refrigerant) are a normal occurance. There is a test procedure that was a good indicator for the old R12 systems, it is called 'the 15 - 55 bubble test'. Because of the charistics of R134a this test is no longer valid for the newer systems. R134a systems should not show a consistant stream of bubbles. That is usually and indicator of 'non condensables' air, in the system. So got bubbles and it is cooling well, (System on high and vent temp. 20 - 25 degree F. drop from ambient) don't mess with it. Got bubbles and no cooling it could be the charge or it could be non-condensables (air) in the system. Lots of work to fix that.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:11 AM   #14
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This system has no glass bubble gage. I decided to do nothing for the time being and see how it works with this next trip. If it acts up the first thing I want to check are those heater hose's to see if there's a problem with a heater valve as suggested earlier. After that my next step would be to put a gage on the low pressure side to see what the reading is. I'll be posting my results as they evolve.
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