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Old 07-20-2016, 09:48 AM   #1
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Dash AC issues

Hey folks, I'm leaving on a long trip on Friday, so of course I am running into last minute problems with my 2003 monaco diplomat 38pdd
My dash AC suddenly stopped blowing cold air. It worked perfectly on our last trip a month ago, but driving it today for the first time since then I get nothing but room temp air.
I've searched the forums a bit but the threads I've seen don't provide enough details for someone as ignorant as me. 🙂
Where do I find the compressor on a diesel pusher in order to verify its turning on?

I found a 20 fuse in the driver side electrical panel, but replacing that didn't help. Any other fuses I should be hunting for?

I checked the AC charge (found the port in front by the condenser, i believe) with the system turned on max, and it measures at 100 psi, which seems high, any thoughts on that part?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure out my path for troubleshooting as i cant get it to a professional for service before my trip.... So i am on my own and hoping its something common and doesn't require major repairs.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:05 AM   #2
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AC pressure will read high if the compressor is not kicking on. With engine running and AC on walk to rear drivers side corner there is a fan there behind the access door. If that fan is not running the compressor is not running. On mine when that happened I found the problem to be what I think you would call a temp sensor. This was located up front on the outside fire wall and is nothing more than a switch with a sensor tube that is stuck into the cooling fins to sense whether the ac is freezing up. I jumpered the two tabs of the switch together and everything started working. Of course you can't just leave it jumpered as the unit will freeze up but you can test it that way.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:44 AM   #3
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Thanks for the info. The fan does kick in and spin, so that means the compressor is running? If that's the case, what else would cause no cool air and for the pressure to be higher than it should?
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:09 PM   #4
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100 psi is the pressure in the system when it is at equilibrium, or put simply when it is not in operation and the pressures equalize between low and high sides. So that tells me you have some refrigerant in the system. Your fan you see may or may not indicate the compressor is on. Sure when compressor is on you need airflow over the condenser to remove the heat. The compressor is run off the engine belt. It will have two hose connections (high pressure hose with metal threaded connections) and an electrical wire near the pulley. That wire is for the clutch which freewheels when not turning the compressor, and engages when the compressor is turning. So look for the compressor and figure out if it is turning on.

Once you know that much, you can then do some diagnostics.

I think you likely have a leak (slow), and now your pressure safety switch is causing the compressor to not engage, or turn off before it can build enough pressure to actually fill the line before your expansion valve (or whatever you have) and into the evaporator where it can make cool air.

Could be a quick recharge will get you cold air, but you need to determine if you have a leak and ultimately fix that.
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbmoberly76 View Post
Hey folks, I'm leaving on a long trip on Friday, so of course I am running into last minute problems with my 2003 monaco diplomat 38pdd
My dash AC suddenly stopped blowing cold air. It worked perfectly on our last trip a month ago, but driving it today for the first time since then I get nothing but room temp air.
I've searched the forums a bit but the threads I've seen don't provide enough details for someone as ignorant as me. ��
Where do I find the compressor on a diesel pusher in order to verify its turning on?

I found a 20 fuse in the driver side electrical panel, but replacing that didn't help. Any other fuses I should be hunting for?

I checked the AC charge (found the port in front by the condenser, i believe) with the system turned on max, and it measures at 100 psi, which seems high, any thoughts on that part?

If your saying that with the a/c on the compressor clutch is engaged and the condenser fan IS running and you have 100 p.s.i.?? That pressure reading is way low.

The most likely problem is refrigerant level is to low.

Seeing that your pressed for time and the situation your in and asuming the compressor clutch IS engaged I would add some refrigerant to the low side while running and see what the high side pressure does and what the vent temp does ( running) .

If the pressure increases and the vent temp decreases I would for the time being add some more refrigerant thu the low side running untill I see at least 200psi and then report back in here with your findings.


Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure out my path for troubleshooting as i cant get it to a professional for service before my trip.... So i am on my own and hoping its something common and doesn't require major repairs.

Thanks for your help!
Happy Hunting
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:23 PM   #6
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Should have added, when in normal operation, the low side pressure is around 25-30 psi, and high side pressure is 250-300 psi.

Also to properly charge you need gages on both low and high side. Arbitrarily adding refrigerant without knowing both can get you in trouble.
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:47 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 38Chevy454 View Post
100 psi is the pressure in the system when it is at equilibrium, or put simply when it is not in operation and the pressures equalize between low and high sides. So that tells me you have some refrigerant in the system. Your fan you see may or may not indicate the compressor is on. Sure when compressor is on you need airflow over the condenser to remove the heat. The compressor is run off the engine belt. It will have two hose connections (high pressure hose with metal threaded connections) and an electrical wire near the pulley. That wire is for the clutch which freewheels when not turning the compressor, and engages when the compressor is turning. So look for the compressor and figure out if it is turning on.

Once you know that much, you can then do some diagnostics.

I think you likely have a leak (slow), and now your pressure safety switch is causing the compressor to not engage, or turn off before it can build enough pressure to actually fill the line before your expansion valve (or whatever you have) and into the evaporator where it can make cool air.




Just for clarification 100 psi is more than enough pressure to close the contacts on a p.s.i. a/c cut out switch.

It that system uses a cut out switch?

That cut out pressure ( open contacts ) will be @ 35 p.s.i. to 42 P.S.I.

If that a/c system was fully charged in most case it would still not read 100p.s.i. static pressure unless you were in ambient air of 100 degrees.

Yes he is most likely seeing equalized p.s.i. but again that 100psi is more than enough to active the switch.

100 psi static ( not running) does indeed say that there is some refrigerant in the system but as we know p.s.i. static pressure has little to do with the proper operating volume as static pressure does not dictate volume.

5 ounces or 50 pounds of refrigerant in sealed containers will read the same p.s.i. statically and that p.s.i. reading will be very close ambient air temps


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Could be a quick recharge will get you cold air, but you need to determine if you have a leak and ultimately fix that.
Happy Hunting
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:57 PM   #8
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The fittings etc up front where you found 100 psi is the evaporator,
that's the coil that gets cold, the one where you heard the fan running
in the rear is the condenser , it gets hot and the fan removes that heat .

Now when the condenser fan comes on the compressor should come on
also but it may not and that's probably the case .

On your Diplomat you will need to look from the bed room to see the
compressor . I'll assume its similar to my ISL in which case it will be
on the pass side of the engine driven by a separate belt , a serpentine
belt drives everything else .
My compressor is round about 8 to 12 in long and probably 6 in
diameter and silver in color .
First order of business is to look at the compressor .
You will need to make sure the whole clutch assy is turning
not just the belt and pulley .
When the compressor is turning the pressure should drop to 30 to 40
range depending on temp and Freon level .

Ray
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Happy Hunting
I know 100 psi will close the switch, but if it turns on and then immediately draws down below the cutout, it will disengage the compressor. This is assuming it is a switch that has low pressure cutout. Result is it does not make cold air inside. Extreme short cycling will not provide cool air.

I NEVER said that volume equaled anything in relation to pressure. I stated that 100 psi indicated he has some refrigerant in the system. This also indicates he did not have catastrophic failure and system is open to atmospheric pressure. It tells me the system is still closed, and with some diagnostic tests and values, it might be an easy fix like recharge. Guessing without some pressure and visual information on the internet is no value.
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:34 PM   #10
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Unless I missed it I don't think anyone has given bad
advise thus far .
I was thinking his compressor is not coming on and
that can be caused by any of the things mentioned
already .
Like 38 Chevy said 100 psi implies equilibrium
( compressor not turning ) or a system at rest .
If the compressor is not turning I would think about
what has be worked on or tinkered with and look in that
area for perhaps loose wires .

Ray
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Old 07-20-2016, 02:24 PM   #11
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Thanks everyone for the help! I opened the engine cover in the bedroom, and found what's in the attached picture. Should there be a belt or two attached to the wheel pictured?
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Old 07-20-2016, 02:31 PM   #12
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It looks like you have a missing belt. Also the fan blade looks like it hit something, maybe the belt?
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Old 07-20-2016, 02:42 PM   #13
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Well, at least I know what the problem is. �� thanks! Is it a common belt I could get at an auto parts store?
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Old 07-20-2016, 02:56 PM   #14
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Well you have found the problem assuming the
belt didn't come off because of a locked up
compressor or something .
Without the engine running but the A/C turned on try
turning the clutch assy ( the pulley and hub where the belt goes )
it should turn but offer a little resistance .
With A/C off the pulley should spin freely and smoothly .

Look around the engine compartment the old belt may be in there
somewhere it would be much easier to find a match with the old one .

Ray
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