Dash gen start/stop switch replacement...

[scenic route]

The rocker face of the generator start/stop switch has broken tabs that keep the rocker from falling off...the switch functions normal, but the rocker keeps falling off. I just took the switch out and it's a Carling Technologies V8D1 20A 12V switch. I've looked on their website and others with no help. This switch has 6 blade connectors(4 on one side and 2 on the other...
l l l l
l==l


I've found a couple of switches that come close, but the blade connector patterns are different or there's one too many blades. Anyone have to replace their dash switch? Any help sourcing this thing?

[falconman]

Try Northwest RV supply
If you don’t see it listed give them a call

http://www.nwrvsupply.com

[bucks2]

Mine got hit and broken also. I found that the black rocker portion of the switch snaps off and can be replaced if the switch is ok, which is what it sounds like your problem is. Go to O'Reillys/AutoZone/etc and buy a replacement. It won't say Gen Start on it, but it'll have a space that lights up when on just like the original. They're big money..... like 2 dollars. They keep them on the racks with all the replacement window handles and stuff. Take your old one to match. This is what your replacement will look like. (https://www.delcity.net/store/Carlin...xoC5REQAvD_BwE)

Oh and I used my label maker to make a label that fit perfect in the middle so that any future owner will know what it does.

[Ret Syntst]

I replaced mine with this:

https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vld1-a60b/

You actually only use half of the switch to control the generator but it's the only one with an independent light. That's what you need to have the light on when the generator is running.

Three generator lines are connected to 1,2,3 OR 4,5,6

Light input is connected to 8 and 7 is the ground for the light.

I created a custom switch actuator with generator start and stop. Mount the switch so the light is on the bottom with the generator off wire (1 or 4) and the generator on wire connected to 3 or 6. The common line is connected to 2 or 5. Remember you're only using half of the switch.

[JJTL]

Here is the Carling rocker switch V-Series guide below. There are hundreds of switch options depending on ratings, normally open/normally closed, 2-way/3-way and so on. The guide breaks down these options and starting on page 10 you can lookup your code (part number) to see what kind of switch it is.

https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/de...V-Series_0.pdf

You should be able to use this info to order an exact replacement.

Based on your V8D1 description:
- V-series rocker
- Single Pole 3-way switch with the middle position off, and the up and down positions as temporary spring loaded on = (ON) OFF (ON)
- 20A 12V

Should be able to search for V8D1 rocker and find a replacement. Might want to check the other numbers in the code for back lighting options and so on.

[JJTL]

After some searching I see what you mean about it being difficult to find a V8D1, or at least one with a light. I would go with Bill's idea, use the double pole version and just use the contacts you need. VLD1 as he links to above, is the DP version of V8D1.

Looks like another member in a recent thread with a generator switch issue was able to purchase a new V8D1 switch. Perhaps they could share their source with you.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dash...ch-465481.html

[Alpine36]

I actually disabled our dash switch. If left down the lift pump continually ran and drained the chassis batteries. We just use the main control panel switch. Still have the switch on the Onan as a backup.
For what it's worth....

[scenic route]

You guys are the best...thanks! JJTL thanks for you post, I gave them some of your info and it seemed to help Carling find the correct P/N.

Being electro-challenged, I called Carling Tech. @860-793-9281 and gave them all the numbers I found on the switch. She asked how many contacts and their positions along with the lighting configuration and light color. Came up with a part No. V8D1 K66B - AA C00-000 and told me that Mouser Electronics(1-800-246-6873) had 17 in stock...well, less 1ea., mine. $25 & change w/2-3 day shipping.

My thanks to everyone.

[JJTL]

Originally Posted by scenic route

You guys are the best...thanks! JJTL thanks for you post, I gave them some of your info and it seemed to help Carling find the correct P/N.

Being electro-challenged, I called Carling Tech. @860-793-9281 and gave them all the numbers I found on the switch. She asked how many contacts and their positions along with the lighting configuration and light color. Came up with a part No. V8D1 K66B - AA C00-000 and told me that Mouser Electronics(1-800-246-6873) had 17 in stock...well, less 1ea., mine. $25 & change w/2-3 day shipping.

My thanks to everyone.

Awesome! My pleasure, glad it was helpful info. All the best with the install! Should be plug and play.

[scenic route]

I just (finally)put the new generator switch in. Primed the fuel pump...light bar illuminated, hit the start side and all house power went dead. Dang! Come to find out that the house batteries were low with some corrosion on a terminal. I charged the batts and cleaned all terminals and all is well... Hard to imagine that low batteries could shut down the whole house electrical system. Hope this update can help someone with a similar problem. Thanks for the help.

[YC1]

For future reference here are some useful links.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-e...-switch.html#b

http://www.thehulltruth.com/new-wire...plained.html#b

https://www.otrattw.net/