Dash Panel Replacement ***UPDATE***

[windsorman]

any idea on how tough it is to just pull the panel next to driver where the hyd jacks and allison panel and switches are on a 2003 monaco windsor.What process should I go thru on removing this.

thanks

[Dutch Star Don]

windsorman......Remove the screws and cup holder. Lift the panel up and start unplugging the vairous switches (label them). The Parking Brake has two screws, make sure you hold your hand under the panel for falling nuts and washers.

I've never had the Allison pane off, but you should be able to access the underside after everything else is disconnected.

[windsorman]

Thanks for the reply,sounds pretty straight forward,I think I will replace with an updated lexan material to keep the cracks away.

[Dutch Star Don]

I got the new dash panels from ProtoFab (via Monaco) today. Apparently, the material/design is still available as these are IDENTICAL to the old ones. The only thing I noticed was that the hole for the radio was originally a din or din and a half. The new hole is a double din. This works out great because I added a larger radio several years ago and had to cut out the opening, which I bugered up and I always saw the mistake.

You may think I'm nuts, but the new ones were $840.00 delivered for seven panels. They're a little more sophisticated than I thought. The main dash panel and heater control panel have threaded studs installed for mounting. I'm heading to Fastenal tomorrow to try and find the screws that Rex had previously recommended in a post.

[lonestarace]

A discount source for the stock dash panels is Northwest RV Supply: DASH ACCESSORIES

[YC1]

Hey Don, I hope you post before and after pictures.

[Dutch Star Don]

The before and after pictures would look the same since it's the exact replacement. I installed all of the panels except the shifter panel today. I know several people said they would/could make their own or they had a custom place they could get them made, but after doing the install today, I doubt you could save any money. You would have to have a custom machine shop to make these parts. I had even thought about taking the old panels out and using fiberglass to repair them and then reinstall with new paint, but the fit is too exact to do this.

The main instrument panel has several studs that are incorporated into the back of the panel to hold the idiot light bar above the speedo. I'm guessing it took three hours or more just to replace that panel. Every gauge has at least 5 wires connected to it and each gauge had to be diagrammed and then removed. I doubt you could find anyone who could custom make all seven of these panels any cheaper. Everything is computer cut and milled so that things fit back exactlyly. I certainly wouldn't want to take my dash apart to send off the pieces to a custom shop and leave the coach disassembled for a month or better.

Before I started this morning, I went to Fastenal and found the black screws with the countersink washer attached (don't recall the name of them) to rpelace the original screws and distribute the stress of the screw better. All the new screws were just lightly snugged.

[YC1]

The screws sound interesting. How about a picture of them. The corners of my entry panel are breaking off due to stress. It sounds like that type of screw would help.

[rex]

Guys, part of the problem is the screws. The countersunk screw puts pressure on the panel to the point it can cause the crack if the screws are tight or the panel jars and moves.

I replaced all the screws with washer-head black screws when I replaced my panels. These screws don't look as nice as they are not flush, but they spread the pressure point.

Fastenal

Au-Ve-Co Products, or Auto-Vehicle Products.

Part # 0162744 is a black washer head screw #8 x 3/4"

Part # 0162745 is a black washer head screw #8 x 1"

Part # 0162756 is a black washer head screw #10 x 3/4"

Part # 0162757 is a black washer head screw #10 x 1"

You may have to zoom in on the picture to see them well.

[Dutch Star Don]

Here is the screw I used in two different lengths. It's made by Au-ve-co as Rex had posted. Because my dash is black, they look good.




Here is the main panel installed with the new screws.



I originally tried these, but they were too bulky looking.

[loranimal]

I am looking to redo my panels in the near future. Going the 1/8" aluminum route. Mainly to move things around. Some of the switches and vents are in the wrong place for me. I added a few switches over time also. I have a couple waterjets at work so cutting them won't be a problem. Just have to design them out, that will take some time.

But a new polished stainless steel or anodized aluminum panel for the water bay is first. That's my springtime project.

Carl

[Midniteoyl]

Originally Posted by Rex

Guys, part of the problem is the screws. The countersunk screw puts pressure on the panel to the point it can cause the crack if the screws are tight or the panel jars and moves.

I replaced all the screws with washer-head black screws when I replaced my panels. These screws don't look as nice as they are not flush, but they spread the pressure point.

Fastenal

Au-Ve-Co Products, or Auto-Vehicle Products.

Part # 0162744 is a black washer head screw #8 x 3/4"

Part # 0162745 is a black washer head screw #8 x 1"

Part # 0162756 is a black washer head screw #10 x 3/4"

Part # 0162757 is a black washer head screw #10 x 1"

You may have to zoom in on the picture to see them well.

I like exposed screws better anyways

[DtBt]

Does anyone have an opinion on my current plan to repair and reinforce the back side if the existing plastic panels where it is cracked with fiberglass cloth and epoxy and cover the front with 3M carbon fiber di-noc? I'll attempt one of the small panels first to see how it goes. It seems like an inexpensive repair and should look a bit more modern. The di-noc looks amazing in the videos, not sure about actual practice.

[Dutch Star Don]

In order for the rocker switches to work, (snap in/lock) the panel thickness has to stay the same.