Community Forums

Playtime III · 09-19-2015, 06:03 PM

My dash 12v receptacle has lost power so I went to the main panel in the back and looked at the listing for a possible fuse to check...nada. I open the front run electrical bay and remove the cover and OMG. Several listed as 12v accessory so I use the little "tool" provided and try to remove the micro mini blade fuses (my terms). The tool keeps slipping. Finally got some out but still haven't found a blown one. Too hot, I'm drenched with sweat so I gave up for today. Might be #11 or #58 from my searching iRV2.

Thinking I could use my VOM to find the blown fuse without removing it? Nope, not enough room to get the VOM lead to the fuse connection. Then I would need to find out which side of the fuse panel is "line" and which is "load".

Anyone come up with a way to get to the fuse connection without risk of shorting out something? Im great at fixin stuff, but better at breaking something else in the process. I have a very small Allen wrench I thought of taping to the VOM lead???

twinboat · 09-19-2015, 06:19 PM

The back of ATC and ATM fuses have small contacts to touch a test lamp to.

The 12 volt test lamp has a pin point probe and a lead that gets clipped to ground.

If either one of the contacts lights the light, you have power to the fuse.

If both contacts light the light, the fuse is good.

bdpreece · 09-19-2015, 06:31 PM

Not sure about what will fit but the best tool is Innova/Transparent handle test light circuit tester 3410 at AutoZone.com

If you look at the top of the fuses they have a small metal tip on each side. Hook up the ground wire on the tester and just go down the line of fuses if the tester lights up move on to the next fuse if it does not light fuse is open. You and figure out which side is line by pulling one fuse and testing to see which side lights up.

I am also not sure you are looking in the correct area for your dash 12 volt power. On my coach these fuses are located in the bay directly under the driver in a large covered box.

YC1 · 09-19-2015, 06:56 PM

Check F58 in the front run bay below the driver. The big box.

xydial · 09-20-2015, 08:19 AM

Yes, check fuse 58 in the front run bay. Keep blowing it with the GPS and cell phone chargers.

Invest in a good set of small needle nose pliers. The tool provided by the manufacturer doesn't cut it. #58 is jammed into the corner under the wire loom. My fingers are a little big to replace the fuse, with or without the tool. Easy with a good set of pliers.

D Barber · 09-20-2015, 09:34 AM

If 58 fuse is good pull the 12 volt plug, on 2 of my 12 volt plugs there was an inline fuse. I presume they had wired both of these direct to power so didn't run them thru the main fuse panel. I had to pull my monitor in the dash to get to the bad one. The other that is wired direct is the one down by the passenger seat. This is on an 05 Windsor
Don

Playtime III · 09-20-2015, 06:27 PM

Thanks for the ideas. Im pretty sure it is a fuse further upstream as my shades over the door and over my drivers side window wont work. Then I noticed batt meter I have plugged into the 12v dash recp was out so Im thinking an entire circuit.

**pasdad1** · 09-20-2015, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Playtime III

Thanks for the ideas.

These come in mini and standard sizes. These are great.....if the fuse is blown it LIGHTS UP!

makes it real easy to find the bad one.

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hshiner · 09-22-2015, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdpreece

Not sure about what will fit but the best tool is Innova/Transparent handle test light circuit tester 3410 at AutoZone.com

If you look at the top of the fuses they have a small metal tip on each side. Hook up the ground wire on the tester and just go down the line of fuses if the tester lights up move on to the next fuse if it does not light fuse is open. You and figure out which side is line by pulling one fuse and testing to see which side lights up.

I am also not sure you are looking in the correct area for your dash 12 volt power. On my coach these fuses are located in the bay directly under the driver in a large covered box.

2003 Monico Windsor 370HP
Full timing
Summerfield, FL.

Toad: Volvo

wa8yxm · 09-23-2015, 02:18 PM

Try a test lamp.. Here is the procedure.

First clip the clip onto a good ground.. Test by poking a known hot spot (Battery terminal if possible or battery cable) bright light = Good

now on those blade fuses, on the top (Visible) end are two small windows with metal contacts.. Touch each of those metal contacts.

BRIGHT-BRIGHT = GOOD fuse
Dark-Dark = No test (no power to fuse thus no test)
Bright=Dark or Dark-bright = Eureka I found it (The blown fuse)

Takes about a second per fuse.

Playtime III · 10-03-2015, 09:50 AM

Ok, I'm an idiot. While being stuck and waiting for roadside assist (see ABS light thread) I got out my cheap 12v test light that came with the tool kit. Nada. Not even on power post to ground post. Oh wait, the test light is broken. Mini-needle nose pliers and 1-second later; fuse #58 is okay. I look closer at the diagram on the back of the box cover and decide to see if other 12v items are working. Ah Ha, the "switched" e.g. drivers seat, step well lights, etc. are also out. DAMN salesman switch was thrown. At least the fix did not cost me any money this time.