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Old 05-22-2018, 03:18 PM   #1
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Dead chassis batterys

I went out to move the Windsor today and to my surprise the batteries couldn't turn it over. Only about 10volts showing on the Sony. It's been sitting about a month, plugged into 30amp power. So, next I pushed the battery boost on the dash because the house batteries were fully charged. But pushing the button made no difference at all. I had to put on my portable charger. I'll take it in for a load test on the batteries next and check the alt output. But I'm still wondering why the house batteries didn't kick in when I pushed the battery boost button. Any Ideas?
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Old 05-22-2018, 03:39 PM   #2
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Hi Monaco Wolfy; Not 100% sure on your coach as my Windsor is an 01. Do you have the battery maintainer in the curb side electrical bay or do you have something like the Big Boy unit. When you pulled, or pushed, your battery boost switch on the dash, the solenoid should have connected the two battery banks together. My boost solenoid is also in the back curbside electrical bay. I am not sure about this, but did you have the ing. switch on and then push the boost. Might have to have the ing. switch on to power the boost solenoid. If so I would go back to that bay and have someone operate the boost switch to see if you can hear the solenoid engage. On my battery maintainer, the terminals are marked for power going to the chassis batteries and the house batteries. Quite often I check the voltage readings right off the maintainer to see if it is charging both sets of batteries. Also have read in the owners manual about sometimes getting the battery maintainer to operate if the green light is not on by starting the engine and running it until the light comes on green showing the unit is functioning. This could all be useless info if you have a different type of unit that charges both sets of batteries. Sorry for the long post as trying to figure if an 04 system is the same as an 01. Hope this info helps and let us know what you found out. Being plugged in should have kept both battery banks charged and ready to go!
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Old 05-22-2018, 04:26 PM   #3
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Hi again Monaco Wolfy; Scratch the part about the ing. switch being on to activate the battery boost solenoid. Your owners manual says to push the boost switch for about 10 seconds and then turn on the ing. switch to get ready to start. It also states to see if you have 12V with the boost switch activated. But as we all know the voltage gauge on our coaches is not all that accurate.
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Old 05-22-2018, 05:41 PM   #4
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dead chassis batt.

I think you may have a bad battery maintaining relay, or as I like to call it "the battery paralleling relay". You can have the rig on shore power and that causes the charger to charge the house battery. The battery maintainer relay then senses the charge on the house battery and parallels the batteries. If it closes, (check to hear it close after you plug the rig in) and even then it's contacts can be too dirty to pass voltage/current. Check with a volt DC meter on one side of the relays big terminals to ground and then check the other side to ground. Any difference in these readings indicates a bad relay contact if the relay is closed. You get the same problem when you activate the boost. If the relay won't close or the contacts are dirty, no, or not enough, current flow.
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:01 PM   #5
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Thanks for the insight. I do have the battery maintainer with 12 volts on both sides. That checks out. The solenoid clicks with the key on or off when I push the boost button. So I disconnected the chassis battery cable from the solenoid, leaving the coach batteries connected to the other side. Then I had the wife push the boost button again. It clicks, but no current is transferred through the solenoid to the coach side of the solenoid. I know what the solenoid does. Or in this case what it doesn't do. Does any 12v solenoid work or are some different? They are calling it a battery isolator relay.
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:28 PM   #6
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It's best to go with one that is referred to as a batt isolator and it must be able to carry the current it will be exposed to in it's various roles and operate from the 12v command wires. I replaced mine with a simple manually operated switch which has spring loading to snap the contacts open and closed. It works well and has completely simplified the process. There is a third choice which wraps all the electronics up with the switch in one unit and still can operate auto or manual. Let me know if you need further info. Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HJTFDKG..._siiRAb4WJEJ4G
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:30 PM   #7
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It needs to be a continuous duty solenoid.
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:41 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the help I found the exact replacement part on Amazon for about eighty five bucks. I'll have it Thursday. You guys are great!
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:29 AM   #9
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Good morning Monaco Wolfy; Glad you found a replacement for the boost solenoid. This is just an asking question from reading your post. You stated that you have 12V on both of the posts on your battery maintainer. When I have my Windsor plugged into shore power and the inverter charger is in the float charging mode, with my volt meter I get about 13.5V on the chassis side of the maintainer and anywhere from 13.5V to 13.7V on the house side. Is yours about the same as mine? Just checking to see if you are getting a charging voltage on the chassis side of the battery maintainer. Just asking as I know you are in the middle of a fix. Thanks.
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:24 AM   #10
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Yes, mine is about the same as yours. I just used the term 12v as a general statement.
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Old 05-23-2018, 02:10 PM   #11
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My battery maintainer was wired in backwards so it never worked. I bought another kind
and it didn't work so I made my own for about one tenth the price. My big boy stopped
working even though it was clicking. The contacts weren't connecting. I had to grind the
plunger shorter.
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