Dead on road.

[IMDiesel]

Originally Posted by Fffrank

The continuous duty solenoid was not available locally - so I put in a duralast F495. I'm not sure why that solenoid needs to be rated continuous when it is only carrying the trigger wire for the starter?

Anyway..... That problem fixed!! Wahoooooo!

Fffrank,
You are a trooper!

I'd like to offer a suggestion, if you have a block heater and can plug it in via generator or external plug it would help.

That is if you haven't done so already. I thought you mentioned something about that earlier.
Good Luck

[Pillbox]

Originally Posted by Fffrank

Fingers crossed: first bit of good news in a few days of misery.

I was disconnecting the battery to shut the starter off and noticed about 10s after I switched the battery off there was a relay that clicked. Took me some running back and forth to narrow down that it was behind this plastic access panel in the inverter compartment and some more analysis to determine which one it was but I'm now 90pct sure I've found the problem.



I spent a few hours this morning looking at electrical diagrams and although I'm not an engineer, I couldnt find this relay on any of them.

Headed to the parts store to pick one up.

Also learned that something was amiss between my BIRD and the aux start button. I've been running the gen to charge the batteries but it wasn't charging the chasis batts and my aux button wasn't working. I figured out a temp solution for now so that I can at least put some power back into the battery banks.

Frank,
Clean all those contacts when you can.

[Pillbox]

Frank,
On my 07 driver side front distribution panel, I have a 5 amp fuse in spot 6-55, says batt boost/tv boost. Check that fuse also.

YOUR my new hero

[jacwjames]

Since Cummins tech had done some diagnostics on your rig did you happen to check all of the wiring harnesses attached to the injector pump. These all provide information to the ECM and if one of them is not making good contact the ECM may be preventing engine from starting.

[Fffrank]

Originally Posted by Pillbox

Frank,
On my 07 driver side front distribution panel, I have a 5 amp fuse in spot 6-55, says batt boost/tv boost. Check that fuse also.

YOUR my new hero

This fuse was blown and I found it earlier. I believe that was my fault. I wired in a 10a usb outlet in place of the antenna boost to power my networking equipment and clearly didn't check that the fuse was large enough. Why the aux start and tv antenna share a fuse is beyond me!

[R.Wold]

This makes my DEF sponsored Thanksgiving in a N. Las Vegas industrial park sound like a picnic. Which it turned out to be with nothing better to do but wait til Friday morning. We made the best of it. I hope your stay in Denver has some redeeming qualities to ease the discomfort of all this. Did you ever make it down to the Brown Palace? Even for a night cap? Worth the 5 to 6 blocks.....

[Fffrank]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

Did you ever make it down to the Brown Palace? Even for a night cap? Worth the 5 to 6 blocks.....

Therein is the real tortuous part of this "adventure." Denver is effectively closed. The only dining allowed is outdoors and last call is at 7:45. No hotel bars, no night caps. And after working inside/outside all day the last thing I want to do is put on a scarf to have a cocktail outdoors. Downtown didn't have the lively vibe I was hoping for. So.... I left the cushy downtown hotel and moved out by the airport where I can save $50/nt (and not have to pay for parking.) It's a much worse hotel but if all you're going to do is shower, eat some takeout and go to sleep..... What else do I need.

Diesel tech just left. He basically double checked all my work and muttered about things not making sense. He wanted to do some research on the codes that came up and get back to me.

SID18 - Fuel Control Valve
PID94 - Fuel Delivery Pressure

Obviously I'll do some research on those as well but I'm not overly optimistic. At what point do I decide that the CAPS pump is indeed bad and start in that direction? Staying here, chasing my tail, with a rental car and eating bad food is starting to take its toll on me.

[R.Wold]

Did you install a pressure gauge before the injector pump? Or crack the fuel line while cranking? I’m sure you did all that and plenty more. I just sounds like low fuel pressure.

Sorry to hear Denver was a bust, but like you said, all you really need is a shower and a bed. Maybe another time. Your stay there brought back memories.

[MarvinG]

Hoping for your sake you get going soon. And for my sake as well, I keep checking this thread expecting to hear of success and keep getting disappointed! Surely tomorrow it will come together for you.

[jacwjames]

I was looking in my maintenance manuals and parts pages that I downloaded from Quickserve site and did see the fuel control valve, which is located on the injector pump towards the top and back(toward the driver). It has a wiring harness. Not sure how to test but it is also listed on the wiring schematic that I mentioned earlier and also found on the quickserve site.



There are also other sensors, all with wiring connectors at the injector pump but also at the main wiring harness of the ECM.



Did the tech check all the wiring connectors including grounds?


FWIW, I've done multiple searches on your type of problem and other then replacing the transfer pump which solves the problem most of the time the injector pump is the other likely culprit.

[kidz_driver]

Fffrank,

Do you have any idea if the grid heaters are coming on?

The largest gauge red wire in your picture is the source of power to the grid heaters. It is fed from the positive terminal on the starter. Check to make sure you have power at it.

Mine rusted off at the starter causing really hard cold weather starts. It was getting progressively worse as the current carrying capacity dropped.

Used a jumper cable to test it and then replaced it with a short cable from the positive battery terminal in the next compartment.

The grid heater relays should activate during the "wait to start" cycle at key on.

[Mile Marker 42]

So I have been following this thread closely as many others have. I too have the CAPS system and thankfully, I have no issues. This thread has made me surf for as much information as I could find related to the thread. Something I found today, I wanted to share. I actually went to Cummins online and researched the lift pump gasket, which it turns out is no longer made or sold by Cummins. My search led me to the attached document from someone who had found a source to the gasket in Texas. Apparently Cummins made 2 versions of the gasket before it was discontinued. The attached document outlines the 2 gaskets. The gaskets are sold here on ebay. Here is the 1st one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cummins-492...YAAOSw~BRcPKMz, and here is the 2nd one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cummins-492...4AAOSwzRlaOvLi. The attached document should help you determine which one will fit yours. Hope this helps someone.

[Fffrank]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

Did you install a pressure gauge before the injector pump? Or crack the fuel line while cranking? I’m sure you did all that and plenty more. I just sounds like low fuel pressure.

I did both. There is good pressure -- additionally I pulled all the injector lines and there was fuel spurting from all of them except for #1 which was more like a drip

Originally Posted by jacwjames

I was looking in my maintenance manuals and parts pages that I downloaded from Quickserve site and did see the fuel control valve, which is located on the injector pump towards the top and back(toward the driver). It has a wiring harness. Not sure how to test but it is also listed on the wiring schematic that I mentioned earlier and also found on the quickserve site.



There are also other sensors, all with wiring connectors at the injector pump but also at the main wiring harness of the ECM.



Did the tech check all the wiring connectors including grounds?


FWIW, I've done multiple searches on your type of problem and other then replacing the transfer pump which solves the problem most of the time the injector pump is the other likely culprit.

At some point I did find something that said that the stator on the CAPS pump was also a common failure. If anyone is interested, here are the 2 documents that outline the error codes that we pulled and the diagnostic steps to take.

Code 456: https://pdfhost.io/v/kOd9d7u6z_FAULT...Circuitpdf.pdf
Code 277: https://pdfhost.io/v/SjNyIW~3Y_FAULT...Circuitpdf.pdf

What's interesting is that the 277 code doc focuses a lot on testing the stator. I'm very impressed with the documentation that Cummins provides to their owners/customers. I'm not aware of many other companies that provide this kind of service information free of charge.

Originally Posted by kidz_driver

Do you have any idea if the grid heaters are coming on?

The largest gauge red wire in your picture is the source of power to the grid heaters. It is fed from the positive terminal on the starter. Check to make sure you have power at it.

Mine rusted off at the starter causing really hard cold weather starts. It was getting progressively worse as the current carrying capacity dropped.

Used a jumper cable to test it and then replaced it with a short cable from the positive battery terminal in the next compartment.

The grid heater relays should activate during the "wait to start" cycle at key on.

I'm not 100% sure but the cables on the starter were all in good condition. Not something I can easily test by myself (and I've never had any issues statrting in cold conditions -- even down to 5F with no block heater used it fired up in <5s of cranking.

Originally Posted by Mile Marker 42

My search led me to the attached document from someone who had found a source to the gasket in Texas. Apparently Cummins made 2 versions of the gasket before it was discontinued. The attached document outlines the 2 gaskets. The gaskets are sold here on ebay.

I found those same threads and back back back when I thought all I had was a lift pump failure (4 days ago?) I did order the proper gasket. Unfortunately it was the one part that didn't arrive in time for this trip so it's sitting in an envelope back at home waiting for me to pick it up. I'm reasonably confident it would have fixed my current lift pump but there is something confidence inspiring about having an entirely new unit (and truth be told -- to see the quality of the machining on the new pump bracket and componentry, $400 doesn't seem too unreasonable.)

[Mile Marker 42]

I found those same threads and back back back when I thought all I had was a lift pump failure (4 days ago?) I did order the proper gasket. Unfortunately it was the one part that didn't arrive in time for this trip so it's sitting in an envelope back at home waiting for me to pick it up. I'm reasonably confident it would have fixed my current lift pump but there is something confidence inspiring about having an entirely new unit (and truth be told -- to see the quality of the machining on the new pump bracket and componentry, $400 doesn't seem too unreasonable.)

We are all pulling for you man. My nephew lives in Denver and works at a restaurant. Last night I text him if he was working the next 2 or 3 days as I was thinking of buying you dinner. He text me back that his Japanese restaurant has shut down and he is out of work for a month:-( Hopefully you get fuel out of #1 injector tomorrow and it fires up! Get your hand cleaner ready:-) Frank, no joke: tell the mobile mechanic there is an extra $100 if he can get you started tomorrow. I'll pay that.