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YC1 · 03-06-2013, 09:54 PM

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Gorlininc · 03-06-2013, 11:27 PM

Hi YC1

I tried the relay and it activates. I never have gave the contacts a thought. Of course you are right. The voltage across the closed contacts should be zero. If its not then I'll replace the solenoid. Thanks you for the insight
Rick

YC1 · 03-07-2013, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gorlininc

Hi YC1

I tried the relay and it activates. I never have gave the contacts a thought. Of course you are right. The voltage across the closed contacts should be zero. If its not then I'll replace the solenoid. Thanks you for the insight
Rick

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You can get fooled if the battery banks are close to full. A small current flowing through the relay may not cause much of a voltage difference to the point you may decide the relay is ok. The relay may also land on or clear a spot and work fine during your test.

I suggest you determine if the solenoid is being energized with the engine running (after a couple of minutes) and then use shoreline or generator to test with that source. If it does get energized the only issue besides sick batteries is the solenoid. The picture I included shows the green contacts of a bad solenoid. Mine was far worse that the one shown.

A replacement is like replacing a fuel filter, you do it because it will fail at some time. Open the one you have and you can actually overhaul it.

bukzin · 03-10-2013, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gorlininc

The relay is activated by a module. It's a black box, if the house batteries only charged while you drive then you have an IRD. follow the wires from the coil on the relay and the IRD isn't far away.
The IRD is a device that measures the voltage on the chassis batteries. With the ignition on and voltage above 13.5 volts on the chassis batteries, it will kick in the relay after 2.5 minutes. If a big load comes on the chassis batteries the relay will drop out.
If after a few minutes the relay doesn't kick in then your IRD is probably bad. There maybe a fuse on the ignition wire to the IRD. it's the purple wire. If you can check to see if it has 13v on it, then you would know if the fuse is good.
I hope this helps.
Rick.

So when I put my meter (set to DC voltage) beween the purple wire
and ground with the key on, I should see 12v, correct?

How much and when should there be voltage on the other
side (small wire) of that relay?

Thanks!

bruceisla · 03-11-2013, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bukzin

So when I put my meter (set to DC voltage) beween the purple wire
and ground with the key on, I should see 12v, correct?

How much and when should there be voltage on the other
side (small wire) of that relay?

Thanks!

If I remember correctly, the other small wire is ground. You can verify with the ohmmeter .... should be zero ohms (or nearly) between that wire and a clean frame ground. Keep in mind that the pick side of the solenoid (purple) is active only when chassis bat is above 13.5 vdc AND ignition is on ... this usually only occurs when the engine is running (the alternator is providing the higher voltage).

YC1 · 03-11-2013, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruceisla

If I remember correctly, the other small wire is ground. You can verify with the ohmmeter .... should be zero ohms (or nearly) between that wire and a clean frame ground. Keep in mind that the pick side of the solenoid (purple) is active only when chassis bat is above 13.5 vdc AND ignition is on ... this usually only occurs when the engine is running (the alternator is providing the higher voltage).

AND there may be a two minute or so time delay. If you do not see any voltage on the purple wire and as mentioned and either set of batteries is being charged at 13.5 volts you can jump the purple wire to either of the large posts and the solenoid should go clunk and will hold in as long as the jumper is in place. If your fingers are touching the little jumper wire you can get a tiny surprise but not harmful except for skinning your knuckles leaving the area.

bruceisla · 03-11-2013, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

AND there may be a two minute or so time delay. If you do not see any voltage on the purple wire and as mentioned and either set of batteries is being charged at 13.5 volts you can jump the purple wire to either of the large posts and the solenoid should go clunk and will hold in as long as the jumper is in place. If your fingers are touching the little jumper wire you can get a tiny surprise but not harmful except for skinning your knuckles leaving the area.

BTW, the BIRD is fused ... usually 5 to 7.5 amp. My fuse is on the main fuse panel on firewall next to Onan genset.

avfordguy · 03-11-2013, 11:32 PM

you can get the relay from these folks Trombetta 114-1211-020 DC Contactor
The relay is energized when the engine (chassis) is running connecting the house batteries to the chassis batteries, one simple change is when you are parked and plugged into shore power you can jumper the relay with a #8 or#6 ga wire with alligator clips, this will keep the chassis battery charged.

Gordie Kaltz 04 dip

recaffey · 03-13-2013, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drifter

Front road side compartment, lools like this.

I have a IRD; Is it ok to install a BIRD also or as replacement for IRD.
Thanks Bob

tompen · 03-13-2013, 02:34 PM

You may need a new isolation relay and run a wire. But, yes, you can install a B.I.R.D in place of your I.R.D

YC1 · 03-13-2013, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gorlininc

Hi YC1

I tried the relay and it activates. I never have gave the contacts a thought. Of course you are right. The voltage across the closed contacts should be zero. If its not then I'll replace the solenoid. Thanks you for the insight
Rick

Unless one bank is very low and you get substantial current flow over the contacts they will read 0 so you can get fooled. Think of it as a kinked garden hose. Current can flow but at a very reduced rate. If you have a few years on the solenoid change it out. I bet I could convince you to change your fuel filter easily and it probably costs more. After you replace it take the old one apart and inspect. You should be able to overhaul it and return it to the cabinet as a spare.

bukzin · 03-13-2013, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

Unless one bank is very low and you get substantial current flow over the contacts they will read 0 so you can get fooled. Think of it as a kinked garden hose. Current can flow but at a very reduced rate. If you have a few years on the solenoid change it out. I bet I could convince you to change your fuel filter easily and it probably costs more. After you replace it take the old one apart and inspect. You should be able to overhaul it and return it to the cabinet as a spare.

Are you meaning the solenoid in the front run bay,
the one back next to house/chassis battery bank or both?

By the way, regarding these two devices, should they be called
relays or solenoids?

Thanks!

Gorlininc · 03-13-2013, 11:23 PM

Hi YCI

I ordered a new big boy relay. I'll put that in when I get it. Then I'll pull apart the old one. I'll let you know what I find.
I installed a echo charger today. I installed another smaller relay in the circuit that shuts off the echo charger off when the key is on so when the IRD turns on and activates the big boy it won't short out the echo charger. Works very well.

bruceisla · 03-14-2013, 04:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bukzin

Are you meaning the solenoid in the front run bay,
the one back next to house/chassis battery bank or both?

By the way, regarding these two devices, should they be called
relays or solenoids?

Thanks!

Don't know about location in your RV.

Either term is used ... typically, a solenoid is larger and contains an electrical coil. A relay can be the same but is sometimes solid state. Sometimes the word "contactor" is used .... especially if it activates a motor.