Community Forums

kb1flr · 10-27-2018, 03:13 AM

Hi All,

We have a 2006 Beaver Patriot Thunder and the docking lights are now failing to come on. This started after my wife mistook the docking lights switch in the bedroom for another light and pushed it on and of rapidly. My guesses are either a blown fuse or, more likely, a failed relay. These both seem to be in the front run box according to the schematic.

My questions are:

1. As long as the docking light switch is not on, can the fuse be pulled for testing or do I need to cut all 12 volt power before pulling the fuse?

2. Is the docking light relay owner replaceable?

3. There are led’s in the run box to indicate power to a circuit, but one of mine are lit. Is there a way to turn these led’s on for visual inspection?

Thanks!
Rick

HJLowell · 10-27-2018, 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb1flr

Hi All,

We have a 2006 Beaver Patriot Thunder and the docking lights are now failing to come on. This started after my wife mistook the docking lights switch in the bedroom for another light and pushed it on and of rapidly. My guesses are either a blown fuse or, more likely, a failed relay. These both seem to be in the front run box according to the schematic.

My questions are:

1. As long as the docking light switch is not on, can the fuse be pulled for testing or do I need to cut all 12 volt power before pulling the fuse?

2. Is the docking light relay owner replaceable?

3. There are led’s in the run box to indicate power to a circuit, but one of mine are lit. Is there a way to turn these led’s on for visual inspection?

Thanks!
Rick

I would start by turning the switch on.
Then take a test light and see if you have power to the hot side of the fuse ?
Thats a must have.
If not ?
Trace back to the on off switch and see iff you have power at the switch terminals on the back.

Regardless of the switch being on or off to test the fuse ?
Either works.
Pull the fuse and look at it.
Is it blown ?

With the fuse installed properly.
And you have power to the fuse.

Take your test light probe and check the other terminal on the fuse to see if power is going to the docking lights.

You may have a bad switch ?
Easy test. Easy fix.
Or a bad fuse ?
Both easy fixes for you.
And a learning and cheap education, fix.

Dynasty_09 · 10-27-2018, 05:56 AM

I would first reset the electronic by shutting all voltage in the MH for 30 seconds. If you have a Multiplex system, it's a 50% chance of fixing it...

K7JV · 10-27-2018, 07:42 AM

Michael has a great idea. Your docking lights are powered from your Intellitec system, and "rebooting" it might fix it. The easiest way is to turn of your coach battery disconnect for a few seconds and then turn it back on. You will have to turn on systems you normally leave on, like your water pump, AquaHot power, bathroom heat fan, etc.

There are two fuses associated with your docking lights. One is in your front run box on board #F11. The other is on module "C" in your intellitec control cabinet.

The one in the front run box is the left-most of the three 15 amp fuses on board #F11. The relay just to the left of it is the relay for your docking lights. That relay actually only powers the two docking lights on each side of your coach. There is another relay in your rear run box that powers your back-up lights which function as docking lights, when selected. The relay in the front run box really isn't really very user replaceable, unless you rock it and pull on it and find that it is in a surface mounted plug. I think it is soldered in, and would require removal of board F11 to get it off and back on. I did replace my brake light relay, though, that way. It wasn't fun, but it was doable.

As for pulling the fuses, go for it. The power does not have to be off for you to do that.

There is a "TEST" line in the front run box. It is a daisy-chained circuit that I believe will illuminate most all of the LED's. But I don't know if you apply +12V to it, or ground. You might test it with your DVM and see if there is a standing +12V using the VDC function, or a standing ground on it using first the VDC function to confirm no voltage present, and then the OHM function to determine if it is fully grounded. If it is neither, you could rig a test lead with perhaps a 1 amp fuse in it, you could try first applying a ground to it. If nothing happens, you could then try applying +12V to it. Maybe someone on the forum knows which you apply. My guess is that +12V will illuminate them.

I have a few schematics if you would like to have them. They're a little big for this forum, but I could email them to you. My email is K7JV@ARRL.NET. Dit-dit-dit-dah-dit-dah.

kb1flr · 10-27-2018, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K7JV

Michael has a great idea. Your docking lights are powered from your Intellitec system, and "rebooting" it might fix it. The easiest way is to turn of your coach battery disconnect for a few seconds and then turn it back on. You will have to turn on systems you normally leave on, like your water pump, AquaHot power, bathroom heat fan, etc.

There are two fuses associated with your docking lights. One is in your front run box on board #F11. The other is on module "C" in your intellitec control cabinet.

The one in the front run box is the left-most of the three 15 amp fuses on board #F11. The relay just to the left of it is the relay for your docking lights. That relay actually only powers the two docking lights on each side of your coach. There is another relay in your rear run box that powers your back-up lights which function as docking lights, when selected. The relay in the front run box really isn't really very user replaceable, unless you rock it and pull on it and find that it is in a surface mounted plug. I think it is soldered in, and would require removal of board F11 to get it off and back on. I did replace my brake light relay, though, that way. It wasn't fun, but it was doable.

As for pulling the fuses, go for it. The power does not have to be off for you to do that.

There is a "TEST" line in the front run box. It is a daisy-chained circuit that I believe will illuminate most all of the LED's. But I don't know if you apply +12V to it, or ground. You might test it with your DVM and see if there is a standing +12V using the VDC function, or a standing ground on it using first the VDC function to confirm no voltage present, and then the OHM function to determine if it is fully grounded. If it is neither, you could rig a test lead with perhaps a 1 amp fuse in it, you could try first applying a ground to it. If nothing happens, you could then try applying +12V to it. Maybe someone on the forum knows which you apply. My guess is that +12V will illuminate them.

I have a few schematics if you would like to have them. They're a little big for this forum, but I could email them to you. My email is K7JV@ARRL.NET. Dit-dit-dit-dah-dit-dah.

Thanks for the thorough reply! I took a look at the front run box, but if there is an intellitec box separate from this, I haven’t located it. Looking through the manual only mentioned the grontvrun box and the engine compartment box. I will have to do some searching.

73 de KB1FLR
... -.-

Rick

K7JV · 10-27-2018, 08:20 AM

Ours is in a top cupboard module in the bedroom, above the bed. I would suspect behind a removable panel in a closet, perhaps. It takes up quite a bit of space. In our coach the space is probably 30" wide by 16" tall. There are eight modules, each about 5" or 6" square, mounted on the back board. It is not something that requires regular access, so it could be somewhat hidden, but it is something that I would not expect to be behind something screwed in place. Although it could be I'll be curious where you find it.

kb1flr · 10-27-2018, 08:35 AM

Well, found it and I feel a bit foolish. It is in the bedroom closet behind a wooden cabinet door. My only defense is that it was almost entirely hidden by a mountain of shoes and handbags below and a completely full clothes rack from above. One I had excavated the site, I was able to partially open the cabinet and see the panel.

To actually get in there and test, will require bringing in heavy equipment to complete the excavation.

Thanks again for the help!

Btw, I am guessing by your signature that you operate CW. My favorite mode, as well. What band(s) are you active on?

K7JV · 10-27-2018, 09:30 PM

Fantastic! They do a pretty good job of hiding things and systems in coaches like ours. I understand about the heavy equipment and the excavation!! I am married, as well. ��

Yes on the CW, but my operating habits the past several years have been pretty much limited to a couple of HF traffic nets. One is FARM, which operates on 3937 LSB at 0200Z and the other is the IMN (Idaho Montana Net) which operates on 3572 CW at 0245 UTC. Both are part of the National Traffic System and both feed into RN7 and ultimately PAN. It's been decades since I was active on RN7 and PAN, but I have done liaison work to both in the past. I was fortunate to run into a guy back in 1977 that actually had a way to make CW fun, easy and even conversational. He is long gone into silent key land, but his memory and his lessons linger on.

I need to play on 20 and 15, but I am somewhat antenna challenged. I need to spend some time and money and put something together. Right now, its just a B&W folded dipole in the attic. More of a dummy load than an antenna.

But regardless, cheers, and good luck with solving our docking lights issue. Let me know if you need any schematics or layout drawings from Monaco for that system, as I do have two or three that could help. My email is my call sign at ARRL.NET.

Cheers for now,

JV