Don't think it is winterized

[Playtime III]

First off, my set up:
2006, 42DSQ (bath & 1/2), Spendide Washer/Dryer, Dometic NDA1402 Refer, Fresh water reel, Prevent-a-freeze system, Aqua-Hot, no water filters (use a hose end filter) except the kitchen sink's separate "filtered" faucet.

This is "my" first year winterizing. Last December the dealer delivered the MH to me winterized as I asked. We did not use the splendide so it SHOULD still be winterized. I've had several TTs and boats so most winterizing processes were familiar.

The P-A-F is a nice but not a must have accessory. I flip a switch on the hall panel and a valve changes the fresh water pump from the on board FW tank to the PAF tank (The white tank behind the hose reel in the pix below (it is empty in the pix) but normally holds several gals of pink stuff). I just run the water pump and it sends pink stuff where it needs to go in the MH when I open a faucet, toilet, etc. I just need to top off the PAF tank if we want to use the MH and re-winterize when breaking camp. Besides the Dometic's icemaker and the splendide winterizing which is covered in their manuals my concern is with other parts of the FW plumbing.

As shown/hidden below, the FW reel has a fitting that connects the reel to the plumbing. It is the standard clear, semi-rigid tubing with crimp fittings. The line exits the reel in the middle/axle area then to the forward bay wall then along the wall then back down to the bay floor and across the floor then back up the rear side wall. It appears to be connected to a multi-connection point that must be the P-A-F/FW valve. After running the pump and PAF, all of the lines are showing the pink except the line from that valve back to the reel. I cannot tell if that line is empty or full of water since it is not pink. I did unscrew the fitting at the reel and some water came out but with the up/down/up run of the line I cannot tell if there is still water in the low points.

I guess I could use my old compressed air adapter and screw it on to the hose and then run compressed air through it.

Also not addressed in the instructions....what about the City Water/Fresh Water valve in the wet bay? Did not think I would need plumbing schematics but maybe I do.

["007"]

Some of us have a line off water pump to suck anti into the plumbing system after closing off water heater and fresh water tank.
See if this link helps you.

[K7JV]

Here are two drawings that I made of our '06 Dynasty, 42' Countess III. Yours should have at least some similarities. Our refrigerator has the ice maker, and we have an InstaHot under the kitchen counter.

I try not to "contaminate" the InstaHot with anti-freeze, as in the spring it would have to just clear out over time, by the process of dilution. Also, I try not to get anti-freeze in the ice maker plumbing, just to make it easier to get it back in service, in the spring.

The same can be said for the pressure tank. Un-winterizing it requires successive dilutions before the water from the tap becomes truly free of the taste of anti-freeze. I recently re-mounted my pressure tank so that the plumbing came in the bottom, instead of the side, and it made it hugely less of a hassle un-winterizing.

The pump, pressure tank and suction lines from the fresh water tank need to be considered, too, along with all of the "p" traps. Also, don't forget the black tank flush system and the service bay plumbing. And last of all, be sure your black and gray holding tanks don't have standing water in the discharge valves. Having one of those freeze and crack is the stuff nightmares are made of.

We have a "whole coach" RO system in our coach, and that complicates things a little bit, but it's not too bad. That complicates the drawings attached hereto. The Spendide and the dish drawer are a piece of cake, and the procedure is included in their respective owner's manuals.

They say the most effective way to winterize these coaches it to take them south, but unfortunately that isn't always an option.

By the way, I blow out everything (except the Spendide and the dish drawer) with air, first, and then after isolating the InstaHot and the ice maker at the Manibloc, I follow up with anti-freeze. Finally, I blow that out, too. Blowing out the anti-freeze helps to winterize the "P" traps, and any remaining fluid in the lines will be freeze-proof.

Good luck with your process. 😊