Well, I had 3 windows in my Windsor that over about a 2 years continued to fog, getting progressively worse. The drivers side window in particular had gotten to the point that I had to do something.
I was able to repair the 3 windows however although I was able to get the drivers side window clean it did still have some etching. If I hadn't waited that long I am sure I could have gotten it repaired and good as new, so lesson learned, Don't wait too long if your windows are fogged.
After researching on repairing fogged RV windows I decided that I would try and repair myself. There was one good thread posted last year that really helped and I did email the OP several times to ask questions and got fast responses.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/fogg...ad-216506.html
There are also some Youtube videos that provide some info along with other articles. You can also buy a complete kit on line and order a video it that's the route you want to go.
I was able to buy most of the material I needed from DK Hardware at decent price and combined shipping. Below is what I ordered.
CRL Black Silicone Foam and Metal Spacer I.G. Sealant
I bought 3 used 2 of these
CRL 3/16" Polyethylene Sealant Guide
CRL Black 3/16" Wide Edgetech Super Spacer™ - 66 Foot Roll
I still have ~1/2 of this left.
I also ordered some Dicor Butyl tape but ended up not using it.
To clean the windows I had purchased a good quality aerosol window cleaner. I also bought extra fine steel wool "00000".
I did this project myself, the 2 small windows were fairly easy but the large drivers side window did take some grunting (and confidence) to take in and out solo. I did rig some bungy cords to hold the large window in while I went from ladder to the inside. If possible I'd recommend having some help on the larger windows.
The first window I tried was the small passenger side window. Below are the steps that I did.
- I removed the Screen from the inside
- I took the inside trim piece off.
- I used a stiff plastic putty knife to break the seal around the window on the outside and gently pried the window out of the opening.
- I had a workbench set up in the basement shop and put the window on it. The window had a small plate with 4 screws that held the outer frame together at a seam, I removed the 4 screws and plate using a #15 torx type screw driver.
- There was a spreader bar that held the bottom portion of the top stationary window in place, there was 1 screw on either side that I removed and then using a metal chisel gently spread the seam apart to remove the spreader bar and removed the stationary glass. There was a rubber gasket that encased the stationary glass and held in the window frame. This window was not fogged so I just cleaned it up good and set it aside.
- The sliding window was fogged and needed to be taken apart. On the top of the window was a metal piece that the window lock was attached to, this was held onto the window with some sort of adhesive and was difficult to get off. I used a sharp utility knife with extendable blade and kept working both side. I also used some mineral spirits to try and soften the adhesive. I also used some small wooden wedges and forced them into the end. I finally got the metal piece off with breaking. (Note: on the drivers side window I used Lacquer thinner which broke down the adhesive quickly and it took a lot less effort to get the metal end piece off).
- I then split the window, I used a utility knife all the way around and the window split fairly easily. I then cleaned off all the adhesive.
- I then washed the window with soapy water and then cleaned using the cleaner. There was still some water spots on the window so then I tried a combination of CLR and steel wool which did a good job. I did this with both pieces of glass and then I cleaned the windows again with the cleaner and started the process of reassembly.
- I attached the Edgetech Super Space, leaving about ~1/4" space to the edge of the window.
- I mated the 2 pieces glass together making sure the adhesive on the spacer made good contact all the way around.
- I then used the 3/16" sealant guide on the end of a tub of Black Foam Sealant and sealed the perimeter of the window. I did purchase a battery operated caulk gun which made this process fast and easy, I set it at the slowest speed and just worked my way around. (after the 3rd window I got very good at this and didn't waste any sealant and/or make a mess).
- I did let the first window cure over night before reinstalling but found that if you were careful this was not necessary.
- I reinstalled the window and then used a silicone type caulk to seal the out side window frame to the side of the coach.
I also repaired the entry door window and drivers side window using most of the above steps.
One observation is that on my Windsor, Monaco did not use the butyl type caulk on the window but instead used a rubber type weather seal that you could reuse if you didn't cut up too bad with the putty knife. Lowes sells a similar weather seal. I was also surprised at how big the opening was in relation to the window. In a couple places the window barely covered the opening, meaning that the sealer around the windows edge needs to be checked often to make sure it is doing it's job.
2 of the 3 windows I was able to get very clean with no signs of the previous fogging. The drivers side sliding window still has a slight haze but it is substantially cleaner then what it was.
I have enough supplies to probably do 2-3 more windows and if I see any of my other windows starting to fog will jump right in and repair.
So if you have fogged windows and are somewhat handy you can probably repair them yourself. If not you can buy new windows or have someone else fix them. Either way, don't procrastinate like I did.
Linear Mode
