Door scissor arm repair after 16 years.

[YC1]

10-15 lbs is perfect.

[DiplomatDon]

I just tried a different way to repair/reuse the original scissor unit however don't have much use on it to see how it is going to wear. I used a 1/2" x 1/4 flat head machine bolt and thin nylock nut on the center swivel. I had to make a bushing as the hole is about 3/8". I made one out off nylon tubing but don't know how it will wear. if it doesn't wear that well will try bronze or steel. So far works well and you can tighten it without removing the assembly. Thought it was worth a try as I didn't want to install a strut on the exterior of the coach.

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by Rusty Kramer

Joe,
I tried a 20lb (wife could hardly close the door). then 15 and I think even a 10. That is the pressure that they will lift. Not sure if that has anything to do with the SPEED they move out. Maybe with a vertical lift of a bay door it does.

You must have a spring that has a cush or slows down at the end of the opening stroke. I never could find one that did not just slam at the end due to the inertia of the heavy door. When mine stop they stop and the door wants to keep on swinging open.
I know a lot of guys love this set up and that is great but I could not find a gas spring that slowed down just before the cylinder was fully extended to prevent the damage to the brackets and ripped out screws. Plenty to fix and repair without having to mess with that all the time. My old scissors was super loose and it was annoying also.

I’m not aware of anything that slows as it gets further extended. Since it’s hydraulic, it should open in a controlled and continuous movement. I started with a 10 # but recently went to 15#. Either one works fine for me. If it’s ripping out the screws, obviously something is wrong.

When I put mine in, I could have installed the bracket in the rain gutter above the door. I think if I did that it would be way too flimsy and probably would rip out.