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Old 03-27-2013, 09:18 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by slickest1 View Post
If the tow truck driver couldn't drop the driveline how did he tow you? I hope he didn't do the unthinkable and tow it as was.
The recommended way is to remove one axle and use a cap over the missing axle end to keep the lube in. Removing the driveshaft is next, and it's the one most often used.
And I also hope it wasn't towed without doing one or the other.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:52 AM   #16
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I have had to drop many drivelines on trucks needed to be towed or just to replace u-joints. A good six point wrench or socket is what you need and the chances of stripping the heads is much less. I have used heat from a torch and have tapped them hard with a hammer. They will allways come loose.

If the tow truck driver couldn't drop the driveline how did he tow you? I hope he didn't do the unthinkable and tow it as was.

I fixed my own electrical problem with the help of this forum while stuck in a rest stop in GA. So i didn't get towed. But i had called in for a tow truck which coachnet sent out. The driver was unable to take out the driveshaft. I say, i got lucky but perseverance paid off.

Now i want to be prepared for the next time (there is always a next time the boy scout in me says so)

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Old 03-28-2013, 07:30 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by DonDee View Post
As much as I like PB, the ultimate is 50/50 ATF/acetone.
I agree probaly 2 or 3 times more efficient.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:33 AM   #18
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Thanks Mr D for the info. Just to let you know, if you have a burn out with electric, WD-40 is the best liquid to clean out the carbon. Used to spray it on big Centrifical burn outs.
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