Duotherm Penguin 630515.321 Rooftop A/C w/ Heat Pump (3 Units)

[sknopster]

I have 3 Dometic Penguin 630515.321 units (13,500 BTU w/Heat Pump on a 2005 Monaco Dynasty that we purchased new. Last year the front A/C quit making cold air, it still cycles properly, but that's little comfort!. There's no problem getting along with two units, that is until last week when the center unit quit working all together. This one failed differently, it won't cycle, but I can get the blower to operate by setting the five button thermostat to manual blower... But no cold air. Obviously, I'm not going to make it through a Florida summer with one A/C trying to keep a 43 ft coach cool in Florida!

I'm okay repairing or replacing one unit to get back to two functional units. But I'm worried about optional upgrades... I've been told that the 5 button thermostats (Duo-Therm Comfort Control Center 3109228.001) is no longer the best option.

So, my questions at this point are basic / general...

1. Should I assume that the units need to be replaced, or can they be repaired?
2. What should I be aware of when replacing or repairing each rooftop A/C?
3. Do I need to research the latest thermostats and be prepared to replace my 4 conductor "phone wire" with different thermostat wire?
4. I've read that the model number of my air conditioner is no longer manufactured... Does anyone have a recommendation for the closest / most suitable replacement?
5. Does this present an opportunity to upgrade to a Wi-Fi Smart thermostat?

For anyone who's been through this process, I sure would appreciate It if you would take a few minutes to share what you've learned! Thank you in advance for any help...

Scott
Space Coast Florida

[vito.a]

If you can afford three new Penguin II heat pumps then that's the best option. The reason is the new units come with a different control board that is not compatible with your 5 button thermostat. You would need to spend an additional $150 per unit for a retrofit control board to work with your 5 button. In my opinion that money is better spent purchasing a new Dometic CCC II 10 button programmable thermostat. It will plug and play with your existing RJ11 telephone cable and the three new units.

If you are only going to replace one unit, then you are forced to purchase a retrofit control board for compatibility with your older 5 button thermostat.

I'm not a fan of the aftermarket WiFi thermostats. So far there are too many issues like the fans running 24/7.

Another thought. I would consider upgrading at least your center unit to a 15k btu unit. This unit performs the bulk of the heating/cooling.

You also have the option of purchasing the new style Blizzard NXT units. These are the newly designed units from Dometic and are supposed to be more efficient. This will raise your roof height a couple of inches as the Penguin and Penguin II are low profile units and the Blizzard NXT is full height.

The bottom line is availability. This may dictate your options for you. I would check with PPL motor home parts center and see what's available.
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...urer%3Adometic

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by vito.a

Another thought. I would consider upgrading at least your center unit to a 15k btu unit. This unit performs the bulk of the heating/cooling.

Oddly enough, my rig came with 2-15k, and 1-13.5k units. The 13.5k is in the center.
If I had the choice, the 13.5 would be in the bedroom.

[wamcneil]

Originally Posted by vito.a

If you are only going to replace one unit, then you are forced to purchase a retrofit control board for compatibility with your older 5 button thermostat.

Not necessarily... depends on how the heat pumps are configured and which one is to be replaced. If you replace one unit that has a dedicated 5-button thermostat (ie- only one "Zone"), then you don't need to maintain compatibility and can install one new thermostat to match.
My forward heat pump is on a thermostat all by itself, so I upgraded the one HP and its thermostat together.
I've also run a new data cable in the ceiling beside the duct from the forward HP to the middle HP. As soon as I get around to lifting the other new HP up to the roof, this new cable will allow running the middle HP off of the new thermostat instead of the rear thermostat.
And then when I eventually replace the rear HP I'll upgrade the rear thermostat.
Cheers,
Walter

[bduemig]

I have upgraded from theb5 button to the microAir Wi-Fi thermostat. Works great. I also had to replace my front heat pump. Replaced it with a brisk air II heat puno. Dometic says it is only compatible with with their new thermostat but that is not true.

I used 2 control boards for the ccc II thermostat and got them working together as zone 1 and 2. Works like a champ. It also switches automatically to furnace if it is too cold for the heat pump. I will add a link to my post in a few minutes.

[bduemig]

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/dometic-b59196-with-ccc2-thermostat-568742.html

[pduggs]

It might be a simple cheap fix. Replace the run capacitor for $25 and see if that fixes it. It did on mine.

[YC1]

I replaced my 15K units with 13.5 K units. I did one at a time spread over six months so had to go through the misery of adding backwards compatible boards.

I could not get a 15K unit and as you know Central Florida is miserable in the Summer so had to settle.

Over that time and a lot of grief with damaged units and poorly assembled units (5 internal problems on one), I managed to get the two new 13.5K units in place with backwards compatible boards and the old thermostat.

I had 15K units previously in the bedroom and living room. The 13.5K units work great and seem to cool just as good as the old ones. Of course they are new so may be more efficient. They are better insulated for sure.

I would love to have been able to change both and install a wi-fi thermostat and can now of course but will have to remember to get a backwards compatible one.

Advertising the last AC unit on Facebook Marketplace found a buyer quickly for the old AC unit and the new boards I had to remove to install the new backwards compatible ones. The guy was grateful to get his hands on them and paid well. He lifted that heavy AC onto his shoulder and tossed it into his pile of them in the back of the trailer he was driving all over Florida to chase parts. I called him SIR! Those things are heavy and he didn't even grunt.

Over the years both of my old ones had the starting capacitors changed and a few other components as well. The shrouds were cracking and the internals were looking very very tired.

I only kept the heat pump function to help with any future sale. I do use them about three days a year here so really are not needed. I have only used about 7 gallons of propane in the last five years. I do not cook with propane. We use induction plates solely.

While you have them off. Clean up your AC ductwork. Take a look at youtube for some great ideas. The air flow from most of my vents was weak when we bought the RV new and I found the pieces that insert into the ceiling had not been trimmed to fit the proper depth. Just shoved into the holes so air had to work up and over then down. After trimming them the air flow was increased dramatically.

The intake registers have been modified using the Wako silencers and are worth the price if you live full time or at least want the bedroom one quieter. No more chasing the tv volume up and down either.

[sknopster]

Thanks for your reply. Once again irv2.com proves that the RV bunch are good people!

I've read through all of the replies as of today 4-16, and collectively they cover all aspects of my concerns regarding repair and or replacement of my three rooftop ACs. It seems you may have formed an opinion regarding whether or not the 15K BTU is as quiet or quieter than the 13.5k (currently installed). I'm not too excited about having taller units on my roof, and frankly I've never needed three units running simultaneously. Therefore, bumping up to larger units is not an obvious choice. But as mentioned, even the shrouds need to be replaced so if I were ever going to bump up in capacity, now would be the time as everything has to be considered.

As others have mentioned, the main line duct in my ceiling was crushed where each rooftop unit connected with it. The installers at the factory did not take the time to make a proper connection.. I can almost see them as they realize it's "only 1 inch, just drop it in!" grrr. I've always wondered what effect the compressed duct had on the airflow of the entire system. Apparently it's considerable, so I'm looking forward to resolving that issue as well as swabbing out the drain tubes.

Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience, safe travels!

[sknopster]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Oddly enough, my rig came with 2-15k, and 1-13.5k units. The 13.5k is in the center.
If I had the choice, the 13.5 would be in the bedroom.

Do you think the 15K is louder than the 13.5?

[jacwjames]

I replaced both my 13.5k units with 15k units last year.

During hot weather they would barely keep the coach cool. I was in ND last July with outside temps +100F, inside the coach with both 13.5K AC's running temps were +85F.

I replaced both units and took another trip in Nov to Big Bend NP Texas and daytime temps with in the mid 80's. One of the 15K units kept the coach cool meaning I could run the rear if I was in the front or visa versa if I was in the back.

Not sure on the noise level. Later I'll take a run out to garage and crank them up and see if I can tell if is louder then the old units.

[jacwjames]

Got a chance to run out to the garage and crank the units on. Noise level doesn't seem any higher that I remember, maybe even a little quieter. Plus the units have 3 speed fans so at low speed it seems quieter.



Here is a post I did on my AC change, https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/rep...ts-559341.html
I asked some of the same questions.



One thing I did that was worth the effort was buy a small inspection camera to check my ducks, glad I did, found some mouse holes and actually one of the duct joints was never sealed properly, about 1/2 gap all the way around.



I also found one of my ducts had been crushed, someone pulled the back AC unit and did not reseal after dropping it onto the duct. The best thing to do is cut a hole under the slip joint which connects the AC to the duct and cut out any seal tape that may be there. Then when you install the new AC you just put the slip joint on, put the AC on top and center it and then adjust the height of the slip joint and seal it and the ducting. Then seal the hole you cut.



I also decided to go with the Easy Touch thermostat which is both bluetooth and wifi capable. When I went to test the AC's just now just turned them on with my phones bluetooth and played with the fan speed using the phone. Don't even used the thermostat anymore.

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by sknopster

Do you think the 15K is louder than the 13.5?

No.

Can't even feel a difference in cooling between the 13.5 and 15k units.

[DGBPokes]

My coach had two 13.5 Penguin II. The front one failed and I replaced it with the 15.
The new unit gets colder than the old one, and it runs quieter, than the old 13,5

Fact of the matter, coil icing can be an issue with the new one. Never had it happen with the 13.5.