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Old 03-11-2014, 12:00 AM   #15
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:31 PM   #16
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Older thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Okay.....did I miss something....did I get maligned somewhere?

We've only taken the new coach out once for a shake down trip over president's weekend. As usual, I've spent more hours doing mods on it than I've camped in it so far. Added: SaniCon, changed out dome sat to Winegard HD (dealer provided sat), shelves for the basement, swapped out microwave (dealer paid), waxed it once, changed tail pipes on hydronic unit and generator, and many more just to name a few.

The tag axle, bigger tires (05 had the 275/70 22.5) Smart drive and added length SURE makes it track nicely. I do miss the power of my Diplomat (engine fan and chip). Even though this is a 450 HP, it's 5K heavier and driving the side radiator with a driveshaft the size of my arm.

I got to where I knew where everything was at on the Diplomat. Newmar has hidden stuff all over the coach and I'm finding fuse panels and other serviceable items in odd places.

Lastly, I think Monaco has been one of the more popular coaches for years, with many more members on line doing their own work. I think Newmar and Tiffin sales will increase with the disappearance of entry and midlevel coaches by Monaco, but they don't have the same number of people on line doing their own work and mods.
Don, I am at the point of swapping out my Norcold for a Fisher Paykel model. Unfortunately, the Samsung won't fit due to height limitations. The Paykel is short enough where I can make it work. I want to run a dedicated inverter for the fridge. Currently I have the Xantrex 2000 watt RV2012 and will be looking to purchase the Xantrex ProWatt sw1000 pure sine inverter. Where did you mount your inverter and how did you run the needed wiring for the fridge? Also, is there a reason you made your support frame out of box tubing and not just reconstructed the wood floor? Thanks, Larry
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Okay.....did I miss something....did I get maligned somewhere?
Don,

I must have missed it too. I've been away from the forum for a long while trying to get my company sold and closed up so I can finally use the RV like it should be used. If someone DID say something silly, I would certainly hope you ignore that. As someone who started on this forum in 2007 when my coach was new, I probably have never thanked you enough for all the superb information and ideas you have generated here about the Diplomat and similar Monaco coaches. I've learned a bunch of stuff from you, for sure. I sure hope you stick around here along with the Nemar forum.

On a new subject, I'm curious about the above post. Did you add a dedicated PSW inverter when you installed a residential refer in your Dip? If so, I'm curious as to why you did that. Was it because you installed something other than the Samsung or the Paykel? Or, did you typically have a lot of demand for AC current while you were underway?
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Old 04-30-2014, 04:51 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Lars99 View Post
Don, I am at the point of swapping out my Norcold for a Fisher Paykel model. Unfortunately, the Samsung won't fit due to height limitations. The Paykel is short enough where I can make it work. I want to run a dedicated inverter for the fridge. Currently I have the Xantrex 2000 watt RV2012 and will be looking to purchase the Xantrex ProWatt sw1000 pure sine inverter. Where did you mount your inverter and how did you run the needed wiring for the fridge? Also, is there a reason you made your support frame out of box tubing and not just reconstructed the wood floor? Thanks, Larry
Larry,

Look at post #32 in this thread:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sams...er-159692.html

Robin,

Don installed the second inverter because he does a lot of camping in National Parks and does not want to keep the main inverter on 24/7. He keeps the battery drain down by only turning on the main inverter when he wishes to watch TV, etc. The main inverter has a high parasitic drain as many things like the television and the satellite receiver draw power even when off. Don does not like having to unplug these devices and then plug them back in each time he wishes to use them.

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Old 04-30-2014, 04:58 AM   #19
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I understand now. Thank you!


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Old 04-30-2014, 05:04 AM   #20
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I understand now. Thank you!


Larry
I guess I forgot to answer the question about not using a plywood floor. Don needed to get the Samsung lower than I did because his ceiling was lower. The bottom of the Samsung is metal and we figured he could place that 1 inch above the furnace and not have a fire hazard. The open frame allows plenty of air flow.

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Old 04-30-2014, 05:20 AM   #21
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By using the 3/4 box steel, don't you still lose the same as using plywood? Sorry for the questions. Just trying to get this all sorted out before I take this on. Thx


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Old 04-30-2014, 06:05 AM   #22
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By using the 3/4 box steel, don't you still lose the same as using plywood? Sorry for the questions. Just trying to get this all sorted out before I take this on. Thx


Larry
I don't understand what you mean. I understand the frame height to be set above the floor the correct distance to give 1 inch clearance from the top of the furnace to the bottom of the frig.

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Old 04-30-2014, 06:21 AM   #23
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So the fridge is sitting approx 3/4 to 1 inch above furnace and this is achieved by the use of the 3/4 in box tubing that is mounted to the bottom of the fridge. The frame secured to the floor is flush with the top of the furnace?


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Old 04-30-2014, 08:33 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodine View Post
Robin,

Don installed the second inverter because he does a lot of camping in National Parks and does not want to keep the main inverter on 24/7. He keeps the battery drain down by only turning on the main inverter when he wishes to watch TV, etc. The main inverter has a high parasitic drain as many things like the television and the satellite receiver draw power even when off. Don does not like having to unplug these devices and then plug them back in each time he wishes to use them.

Bob
Bob,

Thanks for the explanation. That makes sense if he does a large amount of dry camping. A few weeks after we got our Samsung installed, we spent a week "dry camping" at the FMCA show in Perry GA. I was pleased that I did not notice any significant additional drain on the batteries with the new residential refer than I had in previous years with the Norcold running on propane. But like always, when you dry camp you still have to take precautions to manage your power consumption every day. We don't do much dry camping, and after our week in Perry, I see that running the new refer off the original Magnum 2000w MSW inverter, when not on shore power, will work just fine for us. But now I understand Don's concern. If he spends a lot of time doing it, I'm sure he's got dry camping down to a science.

____________________________________

Larry,

I've now had a chance to read Don's entire thread. Don did not use a floor at all - only the open box steel rails. And yes, the bottom rails are flush with the top of the furnace. Even though the refer ended up at about the same height as it would have with the floor moved, Don stated in his thread that he used the open steel frame instead because he figured that would offer more ventilation for the furnace, and I suppose for the refer as well, since they had to be installed so close together, in his case. With your Fisher Paykel unit, you'll probably end up with a little more room than Don had.
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:50 AM   #25
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I understand. If I build a frame/ mount assembly, I feel i'll definitely have enough room. As far as heat goes, I can also install a heat barrier such as a dynamat product to insulate the fridge and the furnace from heat if needed. I will probably only have an 1/8 to 1/2 an inch max of clearance between the two. I rarely use the furnace anyway. Maybe a quiet thermo controlled fan on the lower louvered panel to extract heat from the compartment.


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