Dynasty - Beltline damage/repair

[Newseason]

This 2006 Dynasty looks awesome. It's been maintained meticulously & stored inside all its life. Was crawling around the roof & found this area of the beltline pulled away. These pics are taken from the roof - looking down at the beltline/slidetopper.







After examining closely, I can't see where it has been hit or impacted. Is it possible that the slide topper (Carefree of Colorado) could have seized & pulled the beltline away from the sidewall as the slide was extended? Totally confused!

Gratefully, there's been no water intrusion or delamination.

What approach should be taken to reattach the beltline & seal this area?

As an aside, I'll have to replace all the slide toppers due to age/wear.

Thanks again!

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Newseason-

This is a common problem in the Monaco/Holiday Rambler products. Serious water intrusion can result.

The folks at Talin Manufacturing in Brooksville, Florida have a lot of experience with this problem and its repair. Also, they have a fix for the slide-floor rot problem that afflicts some Monaco/HR coaches. Their Web site is here. Give them a call for a consultation.

Last Summer I had to repair one side of our coach's beltrail, followed by floor rot repair inside the coach. It was, for me, about as deep into fixing things on the coach as I care to go. I spoke with the Talin folks several times during the repair process. They were very helpful.

[pduggs]

Just add caulk and problem is fixed.

[photopilot]

Originally Posted by pduggs

Just add caulk and problem is fixed.

You need to run, not walk to your phone and call Talin. If your seals are compromised at a location such that it pulls away like your photo, then you need to reseal your entire coach. The seal leaks and the screws holding the clip on rust and release and the result is what you see. It will get worse and you’ll get delamination of your siding.

I would not just add caulk. You need to remove the old caulk and reseal with the caulk sold by Talin. I did mine two years ago- it’s a time-consuming task as the original sealant was silicone. I had the use of a scissor lift and it took 3 days to do the high seams. I was fortunate that Talin identified my deteriorating sealant at a rally before I had any damage. I’ve seen Monacos with the entire seam failed, so don’t delay in fixing it!

Good luck! Walt

BTW, Talin also makes excellent slide toppers. Tell them I sent you.

[Jobert]

We had that happen on an 01 Ambassador over 2 of the slides. It starts with the screws holding the awning rail and belt-line and roof edge to the framing. On that coach it was aluminum roof and framing and the screws corroded and/or pulled loose over time. The fix was to remove the slide-out awning, and then reattach the belt-line, awning rail and roof to the aluminum framing. I ended up using larger screws in the existing holes and about double the new holes for added holding while re-caulking as I went along. It was successful and held up for several years while we had it. It did not result in serious water intrusion as it was under the awing but had to be addressed. Best of luck with your repair, but repair it you must. It is not just a caulk over job. Hope this may help. Happy trails Bert.

[pduggs]

Originally Posted by photopilot

You need to run, not walk to your phone and call Talin. If your seals are compromised at a location such that it pulls away like your photo, then you need to reseal your entire coach. The seal leaks and the screws holding the clip on rust and release and the result is what you see. It will get worse and you’ll get delamination of your siding.

I would not just add caulk. You need to remove the old caulk and reseal with the caulk sold by Talin. I did mine two years ago- it’s a time-consuming task as the original sealant was silicone. I had the use of a scissor lift and it took 3 days to do the high seams. I was fortunate that Talin identified my deteriorating sealant at a rally before I had any damage. I’ve seen Monacos with the entire seam failed, so don’t delay in fixing it!

Good luck! Walt

BTW, Talin also makes excellent slide toppers. Tell them I sent you.

Yeah those pics show a lack of maintenance. Mine wasn’t bad. I just added sealant in the few spots where the original sealant had opened up. We need to check these areas regularly to make sure they are sealed up.

[Twomed]

Post number % above is the correct solution to this issue. If you remove the vinyl trim you will find broken screws. Drilling new holes a and using blue coated concete screws for a good bite wil solve it.

My guess is that the coach was in high wind area with slides extended for a while. That's when mine did that...summers in Montana breeze. Fairly easy repair especially if you already are doing the awning fabric. NOT JUST A CAULK JOB

[hypoxia]

Originally Posted by Twomed

Post number % above is the correct solution to this issue. If you remove the vinyl trim you will find broken screws. Drilling new holes a and using blue coated concete screws for a good bite wil solve it.

Are you referring to Tapcon screws or something else? https://www.tapcon.com/?gclsrc=ds

[Newseason]

Thanks photopilot! I took your advice to "run, not walk to my phone & call Talin". What incredibly generous folks with their experience & advice!!!!

They provided a thorough explanation of the issue & the best approach to repair. Now the real work begins!

Looks like I'll also be getting a quote from them for slide toppers.

Thanks again to all who responded!

[veraken]

So, what did they suggest you do? Don't keep us hanging.

[Twomed]

Yes...didn't have my second cup yet this morning. They really hold in the steel framing you will be screwing into and will not rust.

I see you got hold of Chris...I have his awnings on my Dynasty...great folks!

Originally Posted by hypoxia

Are you referring to Tapcon screws or something else? https://www.tapcon.com/?gclsrc=ds

[Newseason]

Originally Posted by veraken

So, what did they suggest you do? Don't keep us hanging.

My apologies - I should have provided additional feedback!

Here’s what they said (as processed through my filter): The beltline on a coach is an area of major stress. The roof & the sidewall of this undulating behemoth come together in this relatively small 2” strip around this incredible beast. Add to that the possibility of, shall we say, a “seasonal lapse in workmanship or materials” and you have an area that might evidence the affect of age, stress & failure related to inferior workmanship/materials.

The stressers on the beltline are significant! Any inadequacy in workmanship or materials will be evidenced over the course of time.

In some instances the original installer may have not installed a sufficient number of fasteners (rivets or screws). In other instances the fasteners may have failed in advance of their anticipated lifespan. And in others, the stresses over time were just too great for the design, fasteners and workmanship.

Remove the protective trim and see what you have - do some forensics. Did the fasteners fail? Was there a “seasonal/personal” lapse in focus on excellence (holes for rivets every 2” and yet the installer didn’t install all of them)? Or did this rockin & rollin behemoth just stress these boogers out past any reasonable expectation?

When you get done with your forensics then you can put together a game plan to rectify the situation.

The solution depends on the owner’s aptitude, skills & personal liquidity.

[Newseason]

Originally Posted by Twomed

Yes...didn't have my second cup yet this morning. They really hold in the steel framing you will be screwing into and will not rust.

I see you got hold of Chris...I have his awnings on my Dynasty...great folks!

Twomed: Thanks for your feedback on the "tapcon" screws - I've used them in concrete but never would have thought about them for this application!

Would you mind passing along what size tapcon you actually used to reattach the beltline?

Thanks so much!

[Twomed]

3/16 x 1 3/4 using a cobalt 5/32 drill bit.

When you pull the vinyl cover you will find broken screws, I drilled half way between each broken one out about a foot or so from the awning edge, or until you find good fasteners. Then double screws in close to the awning edge where the real stress is, and a couple actualy under the awning edge. I ran them in with cordless electric but did the last 1/2" with a 1/4" drive ratchet so that I did not over torque them...old school but I like to feel what snug is.

You will be drilling through the aluminum strip (entered on the screw line), fiberglass roof, then 1/4 inch steel framing, so cobalts make it a lot easier, a a six point socket.

I had done one awning with with stainless 3/16 previously but they did not hold like the Tapcons/Hillman screws have. Those little sharp edges really hold when setting in the mild steel framing.