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Old 07-30-2014, 01:02 PM   #1
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Early 2000's era - duplicating the oak finish

Question for all of you woodworkers out there. As I have done woodworking projects inside my Dynasty I have tried my best to duplicate the finish on the oak but it is not quite right. Up to now my work has been limited to new additions so my finishes are close enough for my eye, but now I have modified the factory cabinetry work around the fridge (installed a residential) and I have bare wood that transitions to the factory finish and would like to make the modification less obvious.

Has anyone been able to find the right stain and clear coat to nail the factory finish?
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:35 PM   #2
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If you have a piece of the old wood with stain on it take it to Sherwin Williams or any quality paint store and they will match it. Take a scrap piece of the new wood you installed and let them test on it to make sure it matches up as close as possible especially if it's a different species of wood or age.

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Old 07-30-2014, 05:36 PM   #3
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As poster #2 stated the stain can be matched. Where you will have problems is the age of the stock cabinets versus the new wood. It should be fairly easy to take in one of your stock cabinet doors. It's a larger piece of wood. It will have the correct current color based on original stain, age of wood and effect of sun light. Your coach is 14 years old and the cabinets will have changed some in color.

Good luck.

TeJay
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:53 PM   #4
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Good suggestions, I had originally taken a piece of the original wood to a local Woodcraft store and I got the stain somewhat close but not quite as close as I would like. I'll give the local professional paint store a try.

The next issue is the clear finish over top. I am presently hand rubbing in a satin oil-base polyurethane but it is not quite the finish applied by the factory. Just a bit too glossy.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:01 PM   #5
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I have extensively renovated our coach over the years. One of the things I did was to refinish all the woodwork throughout. Our woodwork is natural Oak. Because of the age of our coach, the woodwork has aged to a slightly different color from back to front of the coach. I have speculated it is because the bedroom curtains are kept closed during the day. The curtains in the front of the coach are generally kept open during the day.

On any Oak hardwood trim that I replaced or added, all I had to do was brush on some clear lacquer and the new wood matched fine. However, we removed our kitchen table and chairs, and I built an office desk/table unit from Oak cabinet plywood. Matching that plywood to our woodwork was a real bear! When I brushed clear lacquer on the plywood, it dried red! I spent a lot of time experimenting, but I eventually found a combination of stains that, when mixed together, made that desk/table unit look like it belonged in our coach.

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Old 07-30-2014, 07:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa_Jim View Post
I have extensively renovated our coach over the years. One of the things I did was to refinish all the woodwork throughout. Our woodwork is natural Oak. Because of the age of our coach, the woodwork has aged to a slightly different color from back to front of the coach. I have speculated it is because the bedroom curtains are kept closed during the day. The curtains in the front of the coach are generally kept open during the day.

On any Oak hardwood trim that I replaced or added, all I had to do was brush on some clear lacquer and the new wood matched fine. However, we removed our kitchen table and chairs, and I built an office desk/table unit from Oak cabinet plywood. Matching that plywood to our woodwork was a real bear! When I brushed clear lacquer on the plywood, it dried red! I spent a lot of time experimenting, but I eventually found a combination of stains that, when mixed together, made that desk/table unit look like it belonged in our coach.

Jim
Jim,

I haven't tried lacquer but I'm glad you mentioned that. For some reason I was stuck on the polyurethane finish. I know you can get lacquer in varying degrees of gloss. Any idea what you used, was it a satin or semi-gloss?

Thanks,
Glenn
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:14 PM   #7
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Papa Jim is correct on the use of lacquer. Most mass produced cabinets that have a finish sprayed on are lacquer. It dries fast and is fairly durable and that's why.

You can get it in a flat,satin, semi and full gloss. You can also mix them together to achieve the gloss you want. I've sprayed gallons of the stuff. It can also be wet sanded if you have some issues with bubbles, moisture etc. and just re-coat it. I really like working with it. Poly may be more durable but drying time without a dust free environment is tough.

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Old 07-30-2014, 09:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MandG-Fun View Post
Jim,

I haven't tried lacquer but I'm glad you mentioned that. For some reason I was stuck on the polyurethane finish. I know you can get lacquer in varying degrees of gloss. Any idea what you used, was it a satin or semi-gloss?

Thanks,
Glenn
Well, that's an interesting topic. I was lucky enough that the manager of our local paint store has worked in furniture refinishing for most of his life. I took one of my cabinet doors to him, and he quickly identified the finish a satin lacquer. He also said that he thought I was very lucky because there was no stain in the wood. His advice to me was to sand the cabinetry very well with medium, then very fine grit sandpaper, then do a wet thing with very fine paper, then clean with lacquer thinner, then start to work with the lacquer. I laid the doors on sawhorses, and gave them three very thick coats, sanding between coats.

I used gloss lacquer. Wow! What a beautiful finish!

I had trouble with the lacquer on the front dash cabinet and the glovebox in the cabinet. Finally I took it to my man at the paint store. He said that those pieces had been oiled and varnished. He advised me how to work with it to make the lacquer look OK, but he said it probably wouldn't last. He was right.

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Old 07-31-2014, 05:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa_Jim View Post
...I was lucky enough that the manager of our local paint store has worked in furniture refinishing for most of his life. I took one of my cabinet doors to him, and he quickly identified the finish a satin lacquer. He also said that he thought I was very lucky because there was no stain in the wood...

I used gloss lacquer. Wow! What a beautiful finish!

I had trouble with the lacquer on the front dash cabinet and the glovebox in the cabinet. Finally I took it to my man at the paint store. He said that those pieces had been oiled and varnished...
Jim,
I am a little confused with your post, perhaps you can explain.

You start by saying the guy at the paint store identified the finish as satin lacquer but you end by saying that he identified it as oiled and varnished???

And by oiled, are you referring to boiled linseed oil?

Thanks,
Glenn
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:31 PM   #10
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Jim,
I am a little confused with your post, perhaps you can explain.

You start by saying the guy at the paint store identified the finish as satin lacquer but you end by saying that he identified it as oiled and varnished???

And by oiled, are you referring to boiled linseed oil?

Thanks,
Glenn
Near as I can figure it, the two wood pieces on the front dash were probably provided by an alternate supplier, who did not finish the wood the same way as the rest of the coach. It could have been an oil stain/varnish finish. Who knows. All I do know is that all the woodwork in the entire coach refinished beautifully with the sanding and new lacquer. Those two pieces in the dash did not.

And of course, I am not the original owner. The previous owner may have used furniture oil or something on those two pieces of wood on the front dash. Whatever it was, it cause a problem refinishing it with lacquer.


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