Community Forums

Ed S · 09-14-2009, 11:36 AM

The light for my water heat is not working. Do you have to remove the panel cover to replace or will the switch just pop out???? I assume I would have to replace the switch and wonder if one could be found at an auto parts store or if there is somethong special about the switch?

Thank you

Ed

danes-on-tour · 09-14-2009, 01:06 PM

Hi Ed

No - you won't find a switch at any auto store. I have replaced several of my lights and some I got from Monaco's spare shop (which I understand is now back "in business") and others I have come across in some of the larger RV spare part outlets.

No - it won't come out easily from the front. You need to remove the visible screws on the front panel (easy job) and then unhook a couple of wires (another easy job). Finally you squeeze the top and bottom plastic fixings on the switch, in order to push the broken switch out the front panel (third and last easy Job). Did I mention that it's an easy job altogether

?

Monaco will charge you a bit more than other stores, but you will not need a second mortgage on your house if you order your replacement switches from Monaco, and it's easy this way.

Good luck replacing your broken light.

Gordon66 · 09-14-2009, 01:11 PM

Ed,
Is it the switch with a light built in or a separate indicator light? If it's the lighted switch, I recently bought one at Auto Zone. I also recently bought an indicator light, which is the same size as a switch, at a local RV repair/parts center.

Sixpack98 · 09-14-2009, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordon66

Ed,
Is it the switch with a light built in or a separate indicator light? If it's the lighted switch, I recently bought one at Auto Zone. I also recently bought an indicator light, which is the same size as a switch, at a local RV repair/parts center.

Thanks for the tip about Auto Zone. Our generator light sometimes to illuminate when we start the genset. I can tap on the light and it will turn on. The bulb is good but the socket seems to be a little flaky.

mark

Ed S · 09-14-2009, 03:16 PM

Mine is a lighted switch but also think I have another that is a separate light also out. Thanks for the auto zone but if not guess I will try Monaco as a last solution.

Thanks guys for your response.

Ed

Lukeaa · 09-15-2009, 12:01 AM

Switches - Electrical

mfire1339 · 09-15-2009, 12:31 AM

Too much time on my hands. I found a LED bulb at Radio Shack and put in my lighted switch. works fine and cost less than a buck.

Mike

arby · 09-15-2009, 08:43 AM

Both of my lights (gas & electric) are out. PPL has the switches. Be careful. They are 120 volt and there is a 12 volt switch that looks identical. I replaced both switches but still no lights. Both heaters are working just fine. The word from Atwood is the circuit board is not giving the lights a signal. I guess for the price of the board I can live without the lights since everything is working OK.

The procedure to replace the switches given above is correct. Easy job.

Ed_G · 09-15-2009, 11:31 AM

I Ordered the lighted switch for my 12V portion of water heater over 3 or 4 weeks ago.... Monaco says the company has them back ordered still, as of today, 9/15/09. Ed

wa8yxm · 09-15-2009, 12:01 PM

DO you have to pull the panel or will the switch pop out: Depends, and as a result I can't answer

What I did: I have an electronics parts store near me.. The kind of place where "Joe's Television Repair" might well shop. Most of these types of stores will have a bin of indicator lights.. They had several. Some of them had black/black for the leads.... Some were Red/Black or Red/White These were 12 volt

The assembly has, in my case, a green lense, with a benzel, a bit larger than a quarter inch, and a plastic tube behind that, teh leads come out the end of the plastic tube..

Make sure the one you pick is labeled for 12 volts

IN another bin, nearby, there is a bunch of "Speed Nuts" (Spring things you push over the plastic tube)

You drill the proper size hole (one size up from a quarter inch on my drill big kit) stuff the wires and tube in the hole, slip the speed nut over the wire and press.. Now find the hot lead to the heater (This assumes it' is a 12 volt lead) and hook the RED wire there.. Ground the other lead an you are done (There will be a ground lead attached to the switch)

Now: If it's a 120 volt switch.. You choose a 120 volt indicator, this will be Neon (The ones I hvae are red) and the hookup is the same.

I left the ground lead attached to the switch. (On a 120 volt switch that would be a "Neutral"

I did take my handy dandy volt meter and check to make sure it was a 12 volt switch first.

Ed_G · 09-17-2009, 08:52 PM

My switch just came in and took all of a couple minutes to replace. Connections are simple push-ons ( 3 ) and the switch easily pushes out the front of the panel with a gentle squeeze of the tabs on the back side.

My switch data: Mfg. is Sigma, PN is 700801 rated for 16A @125V . The lamp apparently listed at 14V, so I assume the switch was only switching 12V at the panel. I would not recommend anyone trying to replace the lamp.... it is wire lead and probably near impossible to find a replacement... plus disassembling switch would make it unlikely to reassemble properly. ( I tried ). No guaranty that the switch in my Monaco panel is same as others. Monaco parts did come through for me on this although it took 3 weeks or more.

itdave · 09-18-2009, 02:42 PM

BTW the switches and lights can be removed without taking out the panel. You need to have a knife or small flat blade screwdriver. On the back of the switch/light there are tabs that you squeeze together to allow it to get through the opening. From the front put the knife blade between the switch and panel, press toward the switch and use the screwdriver to pry out the switch. Leave that screwdriver in place and do the same thing to the other side of the switch. This worked on my black Water Pump indicator lite on the panel in the hall. I am not sure if the procedure will work on all switched and lights.