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Old 09-06-2014, 03:47 AM   #15
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:02 AM   #16
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I really like the scan gauge D
It will also give you error codes if you get any.
I know you said you down shift and maintain 2000 RPM. but have you down shifted to second gear and maintain 2000 RPM? I'm fairly sure cummins checked your 2 speed fan.
The 275 to 350 HP engines are slightly underpowered for some of these rigs, especially when towing a toad up these long mountain roads. You say that when you pull over to cool the engine down, that it cools down fairly quickly. That tells me your rig is fine, otherwise it wouldn't cool down so fast. Try climbing in 2nd gear next time. I'll bet it doesn't overheat. In fact probably won't even reach 200F, if everything else is ok.

Another thing I learned is when on a long gradual climb, I notice when going 65mph the temp starts to raise slightly. If it reaches 190F. I'll downshift to 5th gear. It usually raises the RPM about 300 RPM and cools it down to the 181F.

The scan gaugeD really helped me manage my engine temperatures by using a digital display.

I hope it all works out.
Safe travels
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:33 AM   #17
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Rick, thanks for the suggestions. My driving technique has been that as soon as there is a hint of a climb, I shift into 5th. Of the examples a gave in my original post, at Lookout, 4th of July and Tehachapi passes I was in second gear. Still the temps continued to climb.

Based on what I have read, my Aladdin Jr. gives me the same info as the ScanGuage except for the error codes. They might be nice to have.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:52 AM   #18
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Rick, thanks for the suggestions. My driving technique has been that as soon as there is a hint of a climb, I shift into 5th. Of the examples a gave in my original post, at Lookout, 4th of July and Tehachapi passes I was in second gear. Still the temps continued to climb.

Based on what I have read, my Aladdin Jr. gives me the same info as the ScanGuage except for the error codes. They might be nice to have.

I feel you frustration with the situation.

It's had to understand why the Dyno run didn't duplicate the overheating. I'm also surprised that the shop was able to get a fan controller quickly. Every thread I have followed on this subject indicates that they are hard to get and there is a long lead time. These controllers have seemed to be problematic.

I'm suspicious that the controller is not correct. If it were me I would call the guys at Source Engineering. They have designed a replacement fan controller that is "wax valve" technology instead of the more unreliable electronic controller. I have always known these guys to be very helpful as they know the Roadmaster chassis very well.

Good luck solving your problem.


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Old 09-06-2014, 08:02 AM   #19
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I believe your right. The Aladdin feeds off the cummins sensors. My rig doesn't have the Aladdin so the scan gauge really helps.
If you are saying you overheat climbing a 6% grade in 2nd gear, I'd have my radiator and water pump checked. I'm assuming Cummings checked your fan controller.
I hope you get it fixed. I'm curious to see what you find.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:20 AM   #20
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Something else to try; get an infra red temp gun & check the temp on your radiator after running at normal temps & check it when you have to pull over to cool down. It will be interesting to see the temp difference. Have you lost any coolant or running low on coolant? You may want to change your motor oil if it has been run hot several times.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:33 AM   #21
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Down shift get the EGT down, back out of the right foot...
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:36 AM   #22
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Plugged my in yesterday ...didn't work, they are sending a new cable
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:54 PM   #23
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Steve, I talked to the representative of Source Engineering at the Monaco International Pre-Ralley in Coos Bay. Coincidentally, Sacramento Truck Service is a distributor for the Source Engineering's Wax valve device. We discussed replacing the controller with the Wax Valve but my extended warrantee company would have no part of it. They considered it a modification rather than a repair. They did pay for the replacement controller, or at least a portion of it, so we had to go with that. The shop ordered the controller directly from Monaco and it took three days to get it. The DW had to fly home for a commitment while I waited.

CampingCajun; IR gun is a good idea. The DW happens to have one for here work. We will try it. We have not lost any coolant. An oil change is on my list of things to do.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:21 PM   #24
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Today I got two cans of Web Coil Cleaner from Lowes and sprayed down the radiator. Hosed it off, first from the inside then from the outside. The portions that I can see are very clean. The first step on the road to a solution.
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:42 AM   #25
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I not sure if I missed it in all the previous posts so I will ask.

When you are climbing these 6% grades and down shifting are you keeping the RPM's between 2000 and 2100?

By doing this I was able to keep my coach cooler pulling some big grades when we went out west.
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:47 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Today I got two cans of Web Coil Cleaner from Lowes and sprayed down the radiator. Hosed it off, first from the inside then from the outside. The portions that I can see are very clean. The first step on the road to a solution.
How did it look washing out? Lots of stuff?

I assume you have not left the thermostat out trying to diagnose the issue? And have you had the radiator out, boiled out and rodded?
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:17 PM   #27
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Atilla; yes, lots of downshifting to keep the RPMs over 2000 and reduced throttle.

YC1; I looked over the radiator before the cleaning and it didn't look that bad. The cleaning did remove some gunk and now the radiator looks really good IMHO. I will be going to Ruidoso NM this weekend, and while I have never had any issues on this more gradual climb, I will see if I notice any improvement. In the meantime, I will order a new thermostat and install it when I get back. Then another test drive to Cloudcroft, which will be the real test.

If that is not successful, the we move on to the next steps. That's when I think I will need to find a good mechanic within a reasonable distance of home. (are there any YouTube video's on how to remove a Monaco side radiator? )
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:37 PM   #28
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Perhaps I missed it but did you answer the question?

Did you have the radiator Rodded ? They take the tanks off and run rods down the tubes, or the sides of course depending on the design. Think of this as chipping ice off the inside of a pipe.
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