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Old 09-07-2014, 08:42 PM   #29
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YC1; I guess I wasn't clear, I only cleaned the exterior of the radiator, I didn't have it rodded out. The reference to a video on how to remove the radiator (a little attempt at humor) would be for taking it out, taking it apart and having it rodded out. Before that step, we will see how changing out the thermostat works.

Based on Bill Willard's detailed description on how to change the thermostat out, I will do that myself. If that doesn't work, then I feel I will need expert help. I am not capable enough to tackle removing the radiator myself. (which would also include the charge air cooler and the air conditioner condenser)
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:52 AM   #30
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Heres a few pics that may help you with your thermostat change. I'm in the process of installing source engineerings wax valve. My next step is to have the threaded mount welded on. [/URL][/IMG]
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:15 PM   #31
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Thanks for the pic!
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:29 PM   #32
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Today I got two cans of Web Coil Cleaner from Lowes and sprayed down the radiator. Hosed it off, first from the inside then from the outside. The portions that I can see are very clean. The first step on the road to a solution.
Simple Green also works well, I didn't even use it full strength. That came from the Cummins reps at the Redmond FMCA rally.
The said:
Purple Power
Simple Green
and one of the citrus ones, don't remember which one now.
I've had experience with Purple Power and I wouldn't use it at all!
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:17 PM   #33
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Just to give an update on my issue, I changed out the thermostat a couple of weeks ago but was not able to take a test drive due to rainy weather and scheduling conflicts. Took that test drive on Saturday up towards Cloudcroft NM as mentioned in my original post.

Well, within 5-6 miles into the climb the temps reached 224 degrees and the check engine light lit up. I continued on (in 3rd gear) until I could find a place to turn around and by that time I was at 230 degrees. (the outside air temp was 65 degrees) Basically, the RV acted just as it had before. But, it was a good try.

The next step, unless there is a better suggestion, appears to be to have the radiator worked over or replaced. I'm still seeking recommendations on a good RV diesel mechanic in the El Paso, Albuquerque, Tucson & Phoenix area.
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:24 AM   #34
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Correction: I was in 2nd gear during the majority of the climb.
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:19 AM   #35
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I'm sorry you are still having your temp problem. If you were in second gear and overhearing and the thermostat is replaced. You already checked the water pump and fan.
What radiator cap do you have? 7lb or 10lb. Or higher?
If your radiator cap is correct then I'd say your radiator might be clogged inside.
My rig in second gear climb is about 185 degrees.
What bothers me is how fast it cools down. I wouldn't think a bad radiator would cool that fast.
I assume you had your radiator cooling fluid checked and flushed.
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:09 AM   #36
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What about checking the transmission? Does the transmission lines go to the radiator or does it have it's own cooler? I also see where there are oil cooler issues with certain Cummins engines. I must have missed what engine it is that you have.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:20 PM   #37
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i did have pics some where of the inside of a allison inline cooler but i cant find them or i would add them


but one place you can look if you still cant find it is there

when the RV was made any ...tag ... paper ... tape ... can some times make its way in to the 4inc cooling lines and all cool-lent flows in and out of this cooler and this is a good place to look to see if 1/4 or even 50% of your flow is being stoped here

i am not sure how your side setup is setup for the trans cool but if it is off set like what i have then its a good place to look
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:59 PM   #38
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Sorry to hear about your overheating problems. I had the exact same issue with my '06 Diplomat. I changed the thermostat, removed, rodded and eventually replaced the radiator. I finally went to Source Engineering and had them replace the fan. Of course nothing was covered by my insurance but it finally works perfectly. That 400 ISL Cummings roars over any hill almost without hesitation.

Interestingly, several people suggested replacing the fan when I first reported the problem on irv2.

I swear I don't work for Source engineering but I can't recommend them highly enough.
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:37 PM   #39
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Sorry to hear about your overheating problems. I had the exact same issue with my '06 Diplomat. I changed the thermostat, removed, rodded and eventually replaced the radiator. I finally went to Source Engineering and had them replace the fan. Of course nothing was covered by my insurance but it finally works perfectly. That 400 ISL Cummings roars over any hill almost without hesitation.

Interestingly, several people suggested replacing the fan when I first reported the problem on irv2.

I swear I don't work for Source engineering but I can't recommend them highly enough.
I changed my fan out not because of heating but because of the amazing improvement in performance and mileage. The drag on the engine of the old fan was dramatic. The increase in HP was immediately apparent doing acceleration tests. I lost a bit of downhill engine braking due to the change but not an issue. The added bonus was a 5 db drop in engine noise. The roar of the original fan was immense. I can stand behind the RV now and connect the toad with the engine running.

It is hard to visualize how a reduction in air flow would not reduce cooling but I have not had any issues with heating except when my thermostat went bad. I have climbed hundreds of extremely steep passes and never a problem.

Even if you don't change the fan a call to Source would be a great idea. They are incredibly helpful and knowledgeable.
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Old 10-03-2014, 10:47 AM   #40
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Thanks to all who are trying to help.

Gorlinlic: It does have a fairly new radiator cap (March of this year), 7 lb. as specified.

I am thinking that the next steps are:

1) Even though I believe the fan is going into high speed when appropriate, I am going to go pull the plug/fuse to make sure. One would think that by having a new controller, this would not be the issue but you never know. When I talked to the folks from Source Engineering at Coos Bay, they mentioned getting it strobed to make sure it is at the right speed.

2) Pulling the radiator and having it rodded out and rebuilt or installing a new one. New hoses would be used. That should address the possibility of restrictions shouldn't it?

3) Have the water pump checked out/replaced. (I saw a post on another forum that made a reference to a known problem with ISL water pumps and a modification. I have done several internet searches to see if I could learn anything about this but have not found a thing. Has anyone heard something like this)

But before I do any of these, I am going to call Source Engineering and have a talk with them. Based on their guidance, I will decide what to do first. (or maybe they will have other ideas)

BTW when talking to Source at Coos Bay, I asked when they were going to bring out a fan for the side radiator Monacos. They said that since the side mounted radiator systems were pretty efficient, there was no justification for them to develop a new fan.

Anyway, our son is getting married next weekend and then moving to Dallas a few weeks after that. I won't have much time to work on the RV until after that process is done. Once I get back on it, i will keep you posted.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:33 PM   #41
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Another thing you may want to check on is the ignition timing.

I had a vehicle years ago that had an overheating problem. Checked all the cooling system but no luck solving the overheating. The dealer even put a smaller pulley on the water pump to circulate the coolant faster. I gave up trying to fix it, just traded the vehicle in. I found out years later the real problem was the ignition timing was off. Under certain conditions it was producing more heat than power.

I wonder if the ignition timing (when fuel is injected) is off on your engine and that is why it is running hot under certain load conditions.
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Old 03-25-2015, 10:07 AM   #42
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Update:
I have been working on this issue off and on for the last few months and thought I would give an update as to what has been done.

In February, I took the RV to Lazy Days in Tucson to have it diagnosed. They determined that the fan was operating at the correct RPM. At idle in low speed the fan was at 276 rpm. In high speed it was at 1179 rpm at idle and at 2100 engine rpm the fan was at 3597. This is within factory specs.

They sent me over to Freightliner of Tucson to get the ECM readings. Low and behold, Freightliner found 14 instances of overheating in the fault log. They also checked the temp sensors and determined that they were reading correctly. They used a borescope and found debris between the charge air cooler and the radiator.

I called and talked to Scott at Source Engineering and discussed my options. Nice guy and very knowledgeable.

Based on what I knew, I decided to have the charge air cooler removed and the radiator exterior cleaned. Back to Lazy Days for this. With the charge air cooler removed, we found this(below). This picture is about 5X6 area of the radiator and about 15% of the radiator looked like this. Had the radiator steam cleaned but in the process discovered oil in the charge air cooler. I now have a new turbo on my RV but that is another story. We figured the crud was the problem, put it back together and yesterday I made my test run up to Cloudcroft NM. (4300 ft elevation gain in 16 miles) But alas, no joy. I had to pull off before the top with the temp at 231 degrees. Next step is to pull the water pump and the radiator. Fortunately, I have a friend who is a diesel mechanic who will be helping me do this. I'll keep you informed.
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