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Old 01-08-2020, 10:38 AM   #15
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I had a sticking door which was caused by the screen door latch, not the main door. The screen door is latched to the main door so that it opens with the main door. When latched to the main door, the screen door latch is retracted so that it isnít hanging up on the doorframe. There is a small plastic piece on the main door that both causes the screen door latch to retract and also holds the screen door to be attached to the main door when you open it from the outside. Overtime, the small plastic piece om the main door can shift to the point where the screen door latch doesnít fully retract, causing it to hang up on the doorframe. Since the screen door is still attached to the main door it keep the main door from opening.

Dick L. 04 Imperial
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Old 01-08-2020, 02:44 PM   #16
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Draw pencil lines around the striker bolts to monitor how far you move them . 1/32" makes a difference. Move one, try it, then the other. When it starts working better go back and put the non offender back to its original position. If it needs to move out after that bring it out 1/32" at a time.
Interesting........on my coach the striker bolts float.....they are snug but you can move them pretty easy with one hand and I have no issues with closing or with air leaks and the door can be opened with one finger.

My understanding is they need to float due to the coach flexing.
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Old 01-08-2020, 02:45 PM   #17
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Looking closely at my door it seems to be bowed. The top and bottom of the door are closer in then the middle.
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Old 01-08-2020, 02:47 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by RCLImperial View Post
I had a sticking door which was caused by the screen door latch, not the main door. The screen door is latched to the main door so that it opens with the main door. When latched to the main door, the screen door latch is retracted so that it isnít hanging up on the doorframe. There is a small plastic piece on the main door that both causes the screen door latch to retract and also holds the screen door to be attached to the main door when you open it from the outside. Overtime, the small plastic piece om the main door can shift to the point where the screen door latch doesnít fully retract, causing it to hang up on the doorframe. Since the screen door is still attached to the main door it keep the main door from opening.
Dick L. 04 Imperial
Been thu that dog and pony show ....fun fun fun.
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Old 01-08-2020, 03:20 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by RCLImperial View Post
I had a sticking door which was caused by the screen door latch, not the main door. The screen door is latched to the main door so that it opens with the main door. When latched to the main door, the screen door latch is retracted so that it isnít hanging up on the doorframe. There is a small plastic piece on the main door that both causes the screen door latch to retract and also holds the screen door to be attached to the main door when you open it from the outside. Overtime, the small plastic piece om the main door can shift to the point where the screen door latch doesnít fully retract, causing it to hang up on the doorframe. Since the screen door is still attached to the main door it keep the main door from opening.

Dick L. 04 Imperial
Dick, I really appreciate your post. I have been dealing with this problem for a year since my entry door frame was warped in a collision I have posted about here previously.
Both Progressive Insurance Company and Diversified Body and Paint have washed their hands of it leaving us with a door that is difficult to open. My DW can't open the door from outside and has to go through a three step process from the inside making evacuation in a hurry a serious problem.
I provided Diversified with the .pdf files posted here and they just gave up on it while insisting they had fixed it satisfactorily(to them.)
I thought the problem was that they hadn't bent the screen door hinges enough. Perhaps they haven't but your post got me to take a closer look at the hook that holds the two doors together. Don't know why I didn't look more closely at the latch before. I think I can fix it myself now.
Thanks for the lead!
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Old 01-09-2020, 01:24 AM   #20
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Interesting........on my coach the striker bolts float.....they are snug but you can move them pretty easy with one hand and I have no issues with closing or with air leaks and the door can be opened with one finger.

My understanding is they need to float due to the coach flexing.
If the door is not held tight it would beat the hinges and latches out very quickly. I owned a bodyshop and did this for a living. I don't think we're talking about the same thing. The striker on the jam may have a floating piece of plastic around it but they both should be tight. And the latches are automotive latches, they have to be closed to the second paw to hold the door properly closed and not beat the latch out. Rob I would be interested to see the system they use on your coach. It's unusual to me.
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Old 01-09-2020, 08:10 AM   #21
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If the door is not held tight it would beat the hinges and latches out very quickly. I owned a bodyshop and did this for a living. I don't think we're talking about the same thing. The striker on the jam may have a floating piece of plastic around it but they both should be tight. And the latches are automotive latches, they have to be closed to the second paw to hold the door properly closed and not beat the latch out. Rob I would be interested to see the system they use on your coach. It's unusual to me.
Mine looks like this Click image for larger version

Name:	Capture.JPG
Views:	17
Size:	43.2 KB
ID:	271812
and as stated they should not be tight and they should be checked now and then and also lubricated so that they can float with the flexing of the coach.

The door striker used on MY coach should not be tight unlike what is used in most automotive applications ...that door opening in a coach flexes and if not allowed to float will damage the door and or the door opening.

Could you share a picture of your set up ?...you must have a different deal?

Happy Trails
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Old 01-09-2020, 05:03 PM   #22
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Mine looks like this Attachment 271812
and as stated they should not be tight and they should be checked now and then and also lubricated so that they can float with the flexing of the coach.

The door striker used on MY coach should not be tight unlike what is used in most automotive applications ...that door opening in a coach flexes and if not allowed to float will damage the door and or the door opening.

Could you share a picture of your set up ?...you must have a different deal?

Happy Trails
up and down makes sense, still holds the door in tight. I'll be up a my coach on monday. Definitely will check this out on it. New to me. Thanks
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Old 01-09-2020, 06:15 PM   #23
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up and down makes sense, still holds the door in tight. I'll be up a my coach on monday. Definitely will check this out on it. New to me. Thanks
First time I see this floating striker deal is back when I first purchased my coach and I was WTH? ....Then I realized why


Happy Trails
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:00 PM   #24
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Looking closely at my door it seems to be bowed. The top and bottom of the door are closer in then the middle.
Interesting....after some time with the new striker bolt positions the door actually seems to be be straightening out and closing better. I think it was warped from moisture and as the weather gets better it takes a set.

My new dead bolt should arrive soon as well as the bushings. At that point I'll finish the job and see if I can get to open/close perfectly.
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