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Old 10-10-2014, 01:53 PM   #1
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Entry step malfunction..

2008 HR Ambassador 38PDQ. Upon opening the door the entry step goes down, then stutters and goes up and down a bit for about 30 seconds then stops in the down position.

Upon closing the door the step retracts up but does the same thing stuttering and going up and down sometimes stopping with the steps partially down.

I am concerned as if we are leaving and close the door we can hear the steps going back and forth, then stopping but don't know if they are fully retracted.

Any insight?


TIA


Robert.
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:59 PM   #2
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step problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobRocks View Post
2008 HR Ambassador 38PDQ. Upon opening the door the entry step goes down, then stutters and goes up and down a bit for about 30 seconds then stops in the down position.

Upon closing the door the step retracts up but does the same thing stuttering and going up and down sometimes stopping with the steps partially down.

I am concerned as if we are leaving and close the door we can hear the steps going back and forth, then stopping but don't know if they are fully retracted.

Any insight?


TIA


Robert.
I would disconnect the linkage and try it. I believe it is the module for the steps, it sits on the underside of the MH and gets dirty fast. I had the same problem and moved the controller to a cleaner place. JC
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:05 PM   #3
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You should have a switch near the door that will turn the steps off until you can find a solution.
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebug5 View Post
You should have a switch near the door that will turn the steps off until you can find a solution.

There is a switch, I just need to find out what's causing the problem as it is drving me nuts!
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:20 PM   #5
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papaw.1

Mine did the same thing and it ended up being the motor.That may not be your problem though.Mine was a 2011 Damon.Good Luck and many Safe Travels.
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:23 PM   #6
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It sounds like the plastic gear "slugs" in the motor have given up. They have a history of crushing after awhile. Normally the motor is the same as the driver door window motor in a 1990 Ford Taurus. This is very likely to be the motor ACI Window Lift Motor 83694: Buy the right Window Lift Motor at Advance Auto Parts you can also buy the replacement slugs Search: power window gears | Window Regulator Gear Plug | AutoZone.com all the big auto supply houses carry this stuff.
Here is a good how to do it
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/chan...ew-151231.html

The motor will run up or down until the controller sees enough resistance to stop the motor. Bad gears don't give enough resistance.
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:24 PM   #7
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Follow JC's advice from post #2, it worked for me several years ago. After cleaning everything, use a dielectric cleaner/lubricant on the electrical connection before reconnecting it. Then be sure to lubricate every movable joint before trying it again. Then, re-lubricate every joint again. Once you get it working again, consider doing this at least annually, maybe more often depending on how dirty it gets under the steps. Good luck!

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Old 10-11-2014, 06:01 AM   #8
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I had the same problem with my step - after hours of checking I finally removed the motor and unhooked the step - found that the pivot pin on the gear assambly was frozen to the shaft. heat and penatrating oil with lots of working loosened it up. any binding confuses the controller. before installing motor run the steps all way up or down for proper timing.
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:07 PM   #9
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replacement Motor I bought for my 98 Bounder is From advance---just change out existing guts to new motor---
Advance part # = 83293 $41.99.
SKU 151600032 fits ford driver side window motor old Crown Victoria
upper gear part that's bolted to step---needs to be greased or oiled,it causes the jumpy steps. Lub all parts that move.
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamont View Post
replacement Motor I bought for my 98 Bounder is From advance---just change out existing guts to new motor---
Advance part # = 83293 $41.99.
SKU 151600032 fits ford driver side window motor old Crown Victoria
upper gear part that's bolted to step---needs to be greased or oiled,it causes the jumpy steps. Lub all parts that move.
sparky1
If you have trouble again 83694 is a direct swap.
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Old 10-11-2014, 04:27 PM   #11
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stuttering steps

Had exactly the same problem on my Coach Steps on my 2005 Monaco. Turned out to be a cracked housing on the motor. The motor could uncouple from the drive cog on the steps and the steps would drop then the cog would reengage and try to retract.

I caused the problem by opening the step on top of a curb then stepping on the steps (I am not a lightweight). Problem did not show up for about two weeks. Ordered a replacement motor from e-bay for less that $45.00.

Pull the motor and check.

Good Luck
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:39 AM   #12
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RobRocks.....

figure it out??
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
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RobRocks.....

figure it out??

NO. I've been under the coach several times now. Everything seems to be in working order. Loosened up all the linkages and adjusted them and there's no binding. Lubed all moving joints, motor is in place and functioning properly. My local service shop say's it's probably the computer board that is faulty...

Anyone have a faulty board before?
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Old 10-16-2014, 02:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobRocks View Post
NO. I've been under the coach several times now. Everything seems to be in working order. Loosened up all the linkages and adjusted them and there's no binding. Lubed all moving joints, motor is in place and functioning properly. My local service shop say's it's probably the computer board that is faulty...

Anyone have a faulty board before?
I would still bet on the gear slugs being crushed or the magnetic door switch. I had a problem last week that ended up being the switch. I also recently repaired the slugs in my driver door window, worked great going down jerked and struggled going up. Everything mentioned above is available at good prices on Amazon, including the logic board. I would try the motor and the switch first, if not the problem, they are good spares to have regardless. It's all easy to change with the steps open, disconnect the power so you get to keep all your fingers
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