Essex 1603 Keypad and Wireless Replacement

[wamcneil]

Hi All,
I couldn't find all of this information in one place, so I thought I would share my experience in replacing the 2002 Essex 1601 / 1603 keypad and wireless box.

My 2002 Dynasty build sheet says: "KEYLESS ENTRY - ESSEX - KE-1603".
The keypad's programming switch is under the passenger cup holder, and the wireless receiver black-box is under the access cover on top of the dash in front of the driver's seat.
The wireless module inside the dash is not the "brains" of the system; the two units are entirely separate, stand-alone units that activate the same sets of relays by grounding them.
--The Essex keypad actuates the entry door lock relay and the bay doors lock relay.
--The wireless module actuates the same relays and flashes the parking lights.
(Side note: The coach's wiring diagrams state that the wireless box is not used if the coach has the optional Viper alarm).

Since we didn't get any keyfob remotes with our coach, and the original Essex keypad didn't work, I got the Essex AKE-5 keypad and "Remote Controlled Keyless Entry Add On" option from A1electric.com.
The wireless remote "Add On" option is actually not an Essex part, it's a 3rd party Keyless entry module (Avital 2101L) that seems to be of reasonably good quality with 4-stars on Amazon (where it can be had much cheaper, btw). A1 supplies supplemental installation notes that spell out exactly how to connect it to the Essex keypad; the wiring is very different from the original wiring and figuring out how to properly connect it might be pretty frustrating for somebody that doesn't install car alarms for a living.

The original wireless box wasn't in any way 'integrated' with the Essex keypad, and there is nothing special about the Avital wireless unit that makes it integrated with the Essex keypad. I suppose any wireless lock module or car alarm would do just as well, but you'd need to figure out the wiring on your own.

I opted for the AKE-5 because it is almost identical to the original 1603 keypad. But if I were doing it again I would probably get the KE-1701 (marketed for RVs), because I think it may be easier/faster to enlarge the hole in the side of the coach, rather than clean up adhesive and sealant on the Monaco aluminum trim plate (that will be re-used with the AKE-5).

Keypad replacement is really very straightforward, except for shaving a little plastic off the keypad mounting bosses to make it fit flush against the aluminum trim plate. (I guess the AKE-5 is assumed to be placed behind an automotive door skin, whereas the Monaco aluminum trim plate is much thicker than automotive steel).

The AKE-5 (and KE-1701) have the same wiring colors as the original 1603, so splicing the keypad wires is very intuitive. Not all of the Auxiliary Outputs are connected, and mine used the Brown wire (activated by the 9/0 Key) to unlock the bay doors.

The wireless box wasn't quite as straightforward. The included installation notes spell out most of the required connections for locking and unlocking with the Essex keypad, but they don't include instructions for connecting the wire to unlock the bay doors via the trunk release button (channel 2). And for the parking lights, you need to swap a jumper in the wireless box so it provides a negative output (default is +12v output).

The Avital wireless module has a bunch more features than the original wireless module, and some might be useful. For example, if you push the remote's lock and unlock buttons at the same time, it activates another output wire (channel 3) that you could use for turning on your porch light.
Or connect the dome light output to the lights in the coach's entry so the entry handle and stairway lights come on when you unlock the door. The Avital module also has a programming switch and flashing LED (that I don't plan to use).

Once you cut wireless box's plug off of the wiring harness, here are the connections you'll need to make:
Original Box Wiring>>>>>>>>New Avital box wiring
Red(Constant 12v)>>>>>>>>>>Red
Green/Black(Lock)>>>>>>>>>>White/Green
Blue/Black(Unlock)>>>>>>>>>>White/Red
Purple/White(Unlock BayDoors)>>Red/White
White(Parking Lights)>>>>>>>>White
Black, Violet, Violet/Black(Grnd)>>Black, Gray*
Yellow(Switched 12v)>>>>>>>>Yellow**

*Violet and Violet/Black are already spliced together in the new Avital wiring harness. These are the lock/unlock signal "inputs", so connecting them to ground makes the "outputs" negative. The original wiring has Black and Gray ground wires spliced together in the plug.

**The original wireless box didn't use a switched ignition yellow wire and I didn't connect it (at least not yet...). The original wiring pigtail has a yellow switched 12v wire coming into the harness side of the plug, but there is no terminal for it on the wireless box side of the plug. The purpose of a switched 12v source appears to be for locking the doors when the ignition is switched on, and unlocking/dome light when the ignition is turned off. Maybe I'll connect this eventually if I find a use for the dome light output (you can turn off the auto lock/unlock feature, which I wouldn't want).

Now I have working power locks, with wireless remote and keypad!!!!

[wamcneil]

Hi all,
Just an update on the wiring for anyone searching for info on the wireless box replacement.
The same plug was used for the viper alarm, so it has another wire in the plug that is useful: the Black/White wire controls a relay for the front ceiling lights, step lights and handle lights.
So, if you connect one of the Black/White Avital wires to ground and the other Black/White wire (Dome Light) to the Black/White wire in the coach's harness, it will turn on the lights for 30 sec when you unlock the door.
Updated wiring:
Original Box Wiring>>>>>>>>New Avital box wiring
Red(Constant 12v)>>>>>>>>>>Red
Green/Black(Lock)>>>>>>>>>>White/Green
Blue/Black(Unlock)>>>>>>>>>>White/Red
Purple/White(Unlock BayDoors)>>Red/White
White(Parking Lights)>>>>>>>>White
Black/White(Dome Light)>>>>Black/White
Black, Black/White,Violet, Violet/Black(Grnd)>>Black, Gray

[K7JV]

Thank you, WA. That's GREAT information! My Essex acted up a few days ago ('06 Dynasty), but it was just a loss of programming issue, and I was able to get it back up and running. Several years ago, we had to replace the keypad, and that was fairly easy. But there's been a lot of water under the bridge since then, and finding the right pieces-parts and good information to replace or repair systems like these gets a little harder over time.

Thank you for sharing what you learned! I don't need it today, but I might need it tomorrow! Cheers, and happy RV'ing!

[BigLar368]

Mine acted up a couple of months ago. When I removed it the date code on the back was within two years so I called them and they said it was under warranty. I decided to fool with it some more and actually got it to work again leading me to believe it was just a loose connection. Works better than ever now.

[vito.a]

wamcneil,
I wanted to thanks. This is a very useful post. Our coach has both the Essex KE-1701 keyless entry and the Viper 650XV alarm system (factory option). We did not receive any remotes with it and the Essex keypad is dead. I'm trying to figure out how to get the keypad working as well as programming a key fob.

I installed a new Essex keypad last night, but so far it's not unlocking or locking. I'll try resetting the master code on it tonight to see if i can get it to work.

The next step is programming a remote fob. If all else fails, I'll add the Avital 2101L system. For $39 including 2 remotes (Amazon), that's less than purchasing a remote for one of the other systems.

[wamcneil]

Originally Posted by vito.a

wamcneil,
I wanted to thanks. This is a very useful post. Our coach has both the Essex KE-1701 keyless entry and the Viper 650XV alarm system (factory option). We did not receive any remotes with it and the Essex keypad is dead. I'm trying to figure out how to get the keypad working as well as programming a key fob.

I installed a new Essex keypad last night, but so far it's not unlocking or locking. I'll try resetting the master code on it tonight to see if i can get it to work.

The next step is programming a remote fob. If all else fails, I'll add the Avital 2101L system. For $39 including 2 remotes (Amazon), that's less than purchasing a remote for one of the other systems.

Is the Essex keypad beeping and lighting up?
If not, you'll need to get that working first. If the keypad seems good, you can try shorting the lock or unlock wire to ground (that's what the Essex keypad does) and see if that actuated the locks.
On the remotes , you could probably find a new viper alarm that uses the same plug / wiring. Then just swap the viper box. That would cst more than just the remote, but would be a lot faster/easier than messing with remotes and trying to get the alarm to accept them. Or desiring to replace the viper with avetal.

[vito.a]

Success. I now have mine working also. It was the copper contacts in the door jam.
Thanks

[wamcneil]

Old thread... but in case anybody uses this to replace their wireless box...
It was pointed out to me that my labels in the wiring instructions are REVERSED.
Here's a a snip of the avital instructions showing how the avital wires correspond to the original wireless box wire colors.

[wamcneil]

Originally Posted by wamcneil

Old thread... but in case anybody uses this to replace their wireless box...
It was pointed out to me that my labels in the wiring instructions are REVERSED.
Here's a a snip of the avital instructions showing how the avital wires correspond to the original wireless box wire colors.

And... make note of the jumper that needs to be moved. The avital parking light flasher output is not like the other input/output pairs of function wires and by default, is 12v+. For our application it needs to be changed to Negative signal by opening a cover in the housing and moving a jumper.

[vito.a]

A1 Electric in Torrance has the Essex KE-1701BHC keypad with the original Monaco connector. It's plug and play.

[shootist]

Originally Posted by vito.a

A1 Electric in Torrance has the Essex KE-1701BHC keypad with the original Monaco connector. It's plug and play.

I bought from them before, the new pad went out so I took it to the factory in carpenteria ca. while passing through. They verified it was defective and gave me another. Good people by my experiences.