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Old 08-31-2021, 12:57 PM   #1
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FASS install results

First, credit where it's due, I followed ZMotorsports lead on this install. Tremendous time saver in plotting and planning. And I don't think I would have come up with moving the aquahot bottle. Also removing the primary filters and hoses. Relocating the secondary was really a clean way to do this. Don't think for a minute I would have thought that up.
Took it out for a drive today. Boost gauge has settled down, it has been constantly wandering. Flat road boost is down from 12 to 15 lbs to 6 to 8 lbs. Fuel usage is showing 8.5 to 9.5. It was down in the mid to high 6's. Real world mileage had gone under 7 from 7.5 three years ago. That is with aquahot and gen usage included.
Below is a few photos of the mounting bracket and how I brought the wiring out of the front run box. Also where I drilled a one inch hole to go into the fuel bay. I went outside the front run bay with the ground and screwed it to the frame at the top of the washer bottle. I cut the top rail off the 90 degree bracket to raise it for bolting to the side rail. I used 3/8 fine thread as the tubing isn't thick. I used a connector at the lift pump and mounted that relay in the rear run box left lower corner.. I bought 2 10jic caps and 4 10jic plugs. The caps remain on the lift pump. The plugs were to keep all lines spotless when removed and installed. Had to move all the water lines due to that straight fitting coming out of the coach waterfilters. A 90 was needed to make room for the aquahot bottle. Hope this helps someone else as you all have helped me.
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Old 08-31-2021, 01:20 PM   #2
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Nice work! My results have been similar in the nearly 8k miles since our FASS upgrade. Fuel mileage gain has been about .5mpg. Light throttle response much improved also, with less downshifting.
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Old 08-31-2021, 06:10 PM   #3
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Few more photos
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Old 08-31-2021, 10:02 PM   #4
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Nice work! My results have been similar in the nearly 8k miles since our FASS upgrade. Fuel mileage gain has been about .5mpg. Light throttle response much improved also, with less downshifting.
If the gain in fuel mileage pans out it won't take long to recoupe the cost of installing the system.
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Old 09-01-2021, 07:51 AM   #5
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Very nice installation.

Glad it turned out well and you are happy with it and I appreciate the comments.

I haven't really noticed any fuel mileage difference many times when fueling I'll lean my coach slightly to stuff the tank so I may not be getting accurate calculations when I do my math.

I noticed almost instantly that the ISL fires up sooner/easier and idles smoother. Even my son mentioned that when he stopped by the shop shortly after I completed the installation. I thought it was just the placebo effect but it does fire right up and idle smoother than it did before, and I didn't think it cranked that long nor idled rough by any means.

I have just over 3k miles on mine so far and glad I finally took the time to install the FASS pump after wanting to do it for the past couple of years.
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Old 09-01-2021, 07:56 AM   #6
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After I got the install completed I took a ~4700 mile trip. I use a Silverleaf VMSpc and have both a tank monitor and trip monitor. I averaged ~7.5 mpg pulling my jeep with minimal generator usage. This is about what I had averaged before the FASS install so I didn't see any benefit in fuel mileage.

I think the rig runs better, seems to be more responsive and I think I have slightly improved boost pressure, but this is marginal.
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:43 AM   #7
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Mine actually cranks a little longer when cold. It's a few seconds at most before firing. Before it was almost instant. I bought this from a truck driver and he teared a little as I was leaving, saying that is one sweet motor. But I definitely saw the mileage drop over the last year or two. My boost is what is most noticable. It was eratic , now it's stable as before. And reaches full boost easier, but running less boost on flat ground.
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Old 09-01-2021, 09:27 AM   #8
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If the gain in fuel mileage pans out it won't take long to recoupe the cost of installing the system.
Just installed a DRP and may install the ugraded version later. Trying to find a good mounting place. If I do I will valve in the DRP to use if the main system fails. But I have a lot of other work to do first. FASS also told me that if you have a standard lift pump installed the upgraded FASS version will pump right through the Lift pump so if the FASS fails you still get home. My current MPG for 103000 is 10.1 according to the engine computer. (34 foot MH)
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:01 AM   #9
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Just installed a DRP and may install the ugraded version later. Trying to find a good mounting place. If I do I will valve in the DRP to use if the main system fails. But I have a lot of other work to do first. FASS also told me that if you have a standard lift pump installed the upgraded FASS version will pump right through the Lift pump so if the FASS fails you still get home. My current MPG for 103000 is 10.1 according to the engine computer. (34 foot MH)
Yes, the FASS will technically push through the OEM lift pump manifold. However, that is where the problem lies as much of the time the failure is of the lift pump manifold and not the actual pump or motor itself. Also there is a check valve in the lift pump manifold that can obstruct pushing the volume through it that the FASS actually pushes.

Taking the OEM lift pump manifold out of the equation in my opinion is the better option to eliminate both scenarios listed above just for the very slight chance of having an issue with the FASS pump. Even in the event of a FASS pump or motor failure, it would be an easier replacement than the OEM lift pump. I've done a couple of OEM lift pumps now over the past 14 years and they are not fun to replace whereas the FASS replacement would be a 15-minute job and either way, you're just as dead on the side of the road in either case.
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:30 AM   #10
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Yes, the FASS will technically push through the OEM lift pump manifold. However, that is where the problem lies as much of the time the failure is of the lift pump manifold and not the actual pump or motor itself. Also there is a check valve in the lift pump manifold that can obstruct pushing the volume through it that the FASS actually pushes.

Taking the OEM lift pump manifold out of the equation in my opinion is the better option to eliminate both scenarios listed above just for the very slight chance of having an issue with the FASS pump. Even in the event of a FASS pump or motor failure, it would be an easier replacement than the OEM lift pump. I've done a couple of OEM lift pumps now over the past 14 years and they are not fun to replace whereas the FASS replacement would be a 15-minute job and either way, you're just as dead on the side of the road in either case.

Completely agree^^.


Cummins does not recommend that pressurized fuel be forced through the lift pump, not only for the reason cited, but also because it can compromise the seal between the motor and manifold, causing a fuel leak.


If one really wants the old lift pump as a back up in an emergency, a "T" and ball valve set up, much like the water heater by-pass for winterizing, could be installed. Don't know if it's worth the effort though and to reroute the fuel back through the old lift pump would require access to the top of the engine.
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:45 AM   #11
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Yeah, I thought about the backup thing, but overnight you can get a new fass pp for the same money. And a lot less work... And a lot cleaner work. If I was going to carry a spare anything it would be the transient fuel suppressor..
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:53 AM   #12
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Yeah, I thought about the backup thing, but overnight you can get a new fass pp for the same money. And a lot less work... And a lot cleaner work. If I was going to carry a spare anything it would be the transient fuel suppressor..

I think if I were to carry a spare I'd just have someone follow me in a different motorhome.

Mine is getting old enough with enough miles I don't know what could fail next so carrying a spare of anything is a crap shoot.
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:56 AM   #13
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I think if I were to carry a spare I'd just have someone follow me in a different motorhome.

Mine is getting old enough with enough miles I don't know what could fail next so carrying a spare of anything is a crap shoot.
The temptation to keep driving on a bad suppressor would be great and could cost you an ecm. 120$ for a little condessor is a joke but not in lite of an ecm. I forget what the code is it should throw.
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Old 09-01-2021, 11:03 AM   #14
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I think if I were to carry a spare I'd just have someone follow me in a different motorhome.

Mine is getting old enough with enough miles I don't know what could fail next so carrying a spare of anything is a crap shoot.
Agreed. That is why I preach Preventive Maintenance as loud as I do. Having a good feel and personal relationship with your coach is key to knowing if something is not right. Putting eyes and hands on various parts of the coach can tell a story if you are willing to listen and listen with very open eyes. Granted, things can fail without notice and do at times, but many times failures can be foreseen and are much easier to address in the shop vs. on the side of the road.
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