Community Forums

Migkiller · 08-12-2019, 05:04 PM

The fresh water pump runs continuous when electric power is applied, I have to disconnect the wires at the pump to shut it off.. The pump switch ( rocker style ) in the coach does not work as the pump still continues to run. The running light on the panel does not light up either with the pump running. Will this mean installing a new rocker switch and light switch on the panel ? Thanks

AnotherMike · 08-12-2019, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Migkiller

The fresh water pump runs continuous when electric power is applied, I have to disconnect the wires at the pump to shut it off.. The pump switch ( rocker style ) in the coach does not work as the pump still continues to run. The running light on the panel does not light up either with the pump running. Will this mean installing a new rocker switch and light switch on the panel ? Thanks

A shorted switch is possible, and can be determined by pulling one wire off the connections on the back of the switch. However before you start pulling things apart you may find, as I did, that there is more than one switch inn parallel.

I had a similar situation on my water pump and the best thing I did was to get a wiring diagram of the water system in my RV and start tracing it.

It turns out that my water pump has an enable switch in the +12v side and there were three in parallel - one in the toilet area (with a label), the second near the kitchen sink (with a label) and the third on the wall by the shower (no label and it looked like a light switch).

So the pump was enabled when any of those switches was on. The pump ran until the water pressure built up and the pressure switch (mounted on the pump body) opened... and the pressure switch is wired in the negative lead of the pump.

So I found two problems: that the unlabeled +12v switch by the shower was on and the negative lead of the pump had abraded against a mounting screw and was shorting to ground.

Once I had identified all the parts (and the wiring between them) the fix was obvious: turn off the shower switch (AND LABEL IT) and relocate the negative lead of the pump (away from the screw) and put some electrical tape over the abraded area.

One of the items on my to-do list is to add a indicator LED to the pump circuit. The switch in the kitchen area has a convenient ground adjacent to it so that is where it will be. I am going to replace the switch with a new similar switch that has a built-in green LED. That will provide an indication that one of the other two switches has been left on.

In your case the pump may be running continuously because it can't build up pressure... maybe there's a shorted pressure switch, or a short in the wiring (like I had), maybe there's there's no water getting to the pump and it can't build up pressure, or maybe there;s a broken water tubing preventing hte pressure from building... (in that case you'd see a wet spot somewhere).

Mike

Ray,IN · 08-12-2019, 06:47 PM

If the pump runs all the time when there are no faucets/outlets running, or broken piping, the pump head and/or shut-off device is faulty, otherwise it will build to cut-off pressure and stop running. It doesn't matter if there is a wiring short, the pump-pressure cut-off device will disconnect 12V unless it is broken.

wamcneil · 08-12-2019, 06:56 PM

If yours is like mine, those switches are momentary contact, right? If that’s the case, they don’t control the +12v side of the pump, they each ground a terminal on a pump controller. Which then supplies voltage to the pump.
Sounds to me like you have two problems: 1- your pump controller isn’t breaking power to the pump
And 2-the pump is failing and isn’t creating enough pressure to trip the pressure switch
Cheers
Walter

Migkiller · 08-12-2019, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wamcneil

If yours is like mine, those switches are momentary contact, right? If that’s the case, they don’t control the +12v side of the pump, they each ground a terminal on a pump controller. Which then supplies voltage to the pump.
Sounds to me like you have two problems: 1- your pump controller isn’t breaking power to the pump
And 2-the pump is failing and isn’t creating enough pressure to trip the pressure switch
Cheers
Walter

Correct...the rocker pump switch is momentary in each direction pushed. I do have the wiring diagrams, so hopefully it will show the controller. Not sure where its located though. Thanks

Migkiller · 08-12-2019, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

If the pump runs all the time when there are no faucets/outlets running, or broken piping, the pump head and/or shut-off device is faulty, otherwise it will build to cut-off pressure and stop running. It doesn't matter if there is a wiring short, the pump-pressure cut-off device will disconnect 12V unless it is broken.

Thanks..I am thinking I have a bad pump by your description. But I may also have a bad pump controller also.

Migkiller · 08-12-2019, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnotherMike

A shorted switch is possible, and can be determined by pulling one wire off the connections on the back of the switch. However before you start pulling things apart you may find, as I did, that there is more than one switch inn parallel.

I had a similar situation on my water pump and the best thing I did was to get a wiring diagram of the water system in my RV and start tracing it.

It turns out that my water pump has an enable switch in the +12v side and there were three in parallel - one in the toilet area (with a label), the second near the kitchen sink (with a label) and the third on the wall by the shower (no label and it looked like a light switch).

So the pump was enabled when any of those switches was on. The pump ran until the water pressure built up and the pressure switch (mounted on the pump body) opened... and the pressure switch is wired in the negative lead of the pump.

So I found two problems: that the unlabeled +12v switch by the shower was on and the negative lead of the pump had abraded against a mounting screw and was shorting to ground.

Once I had identified all the parts (and the wiring between them) the fix was obvious: turn off the shower switch (AND LABEL IT) and relocate the negative lead of the pump (away from the screw) and put some electrical tape over the abraded area.

One of the items on my to-do list is to add a indicator LED to the pump circuit. The switch in the kitchen area has a convenient ground adjacent to it so that is where it will be. I am going to replace the switch with a new similar switch that has a built-in green LED. That will provide an indication that one of the other two switches has been left on.

In your case the pump may be running continuously because it can't build up pressure... maybe there's a shorted pressure switch, or a short in the wiring (like I had), maybe there's there's no water getting to the pump and it can't build up pressure, or maybe there;s a broken water tubing preventing hte pressure from building... (in that case you'd see a wet spot somewhere).

Mike

Thanks. I will have to get my wiring diagram out tomorrow and wring some wires ! Someone posted I may have a controller involved, so will look for it tomorrow.

AnotherMike · 08-12-2019, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Migkiller

Thanks. I will have to get my wiring diagram out tomorrow and wring some wires ! Someone posted I may have a controller involved, so will look for it tomorrow.

Well, my coach is a mid-80s and has simple wiring and simple systems. Yours is much newer and I'll defer to those that have knowledge on the newer systems.

Mike

Migkiller · 08-13-2019, 04:43 PM

So I just remembered I also have the same switch assembly in the wet service bay. I went and looked at both system switch assemblies. Then traced the wire bundles but couldn't find where they terminated !!! So I did a forum search on where the controller is located. Found a thread for a 98 Dynasty....and to my good fortune they said it is behind the Zantrex info panel above the co-pilots seat. So tomorrow I will go and see if thats where it is at and if so order up some new relays.

Stan&Jacquie · 08-20-2019, 02:24 AM

Monaco, over the years put the Intellitec controller box in many different places but as a general rule they are shall placed close to the water pump. Mine ( 2007 Knight DFT) had the control placed high in water bay on the right.

Ivylog · 08-20-2019, 11:35 AM

Pump running all the time is usually because the city water fill valve is open...pump never builds enough pressure to shut off automatically.

The pump latching relay is usually close to the pump plus a 1” square relay that it controls. Before replacing the expensive latching rel, replace the inexpensive 1” square one first.

Migkiller · 08-20-2019, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivylog

Pump running all the time is usually because the city water fill valve is open...pump never builds enough pressure to shut off automatically.

The pump latching relay is usually close to the pump plus a 1” square relay that it controls. Before replacing the expensive latching rel, replace the inexpensive 1” square one first.

I have a bad controller. Which I found behind the Xantrex info control panel above the passengers seat. I have a new controller on the way and will install when I get back home next week.

Migkiller · 08-20-2019, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stan&Jacquie

Monaco, over the years put the Intellitec controller box in many different places but as a general rule they are shall placed close to the water pump. Mine ( 2007 Knight DFT) had the control placed high in water bay on the right.

Thanks. Mine is located behind the Xantrex control panel above the passengers seat. New controller is in the mail !