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Old 01-14-2021, 03:18 PM   #1
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Friends helping worse than no help! Starting issue

First, Happy New Year to all you forum folks. It's been a long time since I have been here, but ya'll are always so helpful and kind. Soooo, my neighbor offers to help me with the motorhome this morning. I was welding a bracket for the reposition of the A/C condenser. To be safe, removed the main positive and negative battery cables from the starter and house batteries. So, batteries are disconnected. Welded the bracket in place, all is going well. As I'm crawling out from under the motorhome, he says "got the batteries hooked up." I look up and notice the tail lights and marker lights are on. So, I go to the front to see if any switches are on. None are on. Go back to check the batteries and he has inadvertently hooked the negative cable of the starter batteries on the positive side along with a couple of small wires. I quickly removed the incorrect cable and attached the cables in the correct position. Evidently something electrical did not like it. The motorhome will not start. I can hear the starter solenoid clicking, but the motor will not turn over. Checked all the batteries and they are at 100 percent charge. We have a 2000 Monaco Dynasty with the 350 hp 8.3 disc. Any help in figuring this out is greatly appreciate. God Bless and have an awesome day!
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Old 01-14-2021, 04:36 PM   #2
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If the solenoid is clicking then you don't have a complete circuit for the starter.
The starter has a ground usually attached to the engine.
The positive goes from the battery to the solenoid then on to the starter.

You can test the solenoid by jumping across the to large terminals.
All a solenoid is is a electric relay, (switch)
So check your engine is grounded to the batteries.
Then track to positive (multimeter) till you don't have 12v and you will find your problem.
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Old 01-14-2021, 04:56 PM   #3
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Something isn't sounding right. You said" To be safe, removed the main positive and negative battery cables from the starter and house batteries. So, batteries are disconnected". What do you actually mean? Weird how those lights came on without the switch being pulled.
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:05 PM   #4
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I had read in a service manual that the batteries should be disconnected before doing any welding on the chassis to prevent damaging any of the electrical components.
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:06 PM   #5
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Look closely for any dropped cables during the fray. Perhaps the power to activate the starter solenoid is intact but the actual power that will go through it to the starter is not there.
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:08 PM   #6
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Ok, will check ground and positive tomorrow. By the way, both of the continuous power solenoids the house and the chassis are so hot you can only hold them for about 15 seconds. Don't know why they would be so hot.
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:08 PM   #7
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Look closely for any dropped cables during the fray. Perhaps the power to activate the starter solenoid is intact but the actual power that will go through it to the starter is not there.
This was my thought as well.
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:09 PM   #8
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Ok, will check that out tomorrow, it's too dark now!
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:11 PM   #9
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Ok, will check ground and positive tomorrow. By the way, both of the continuous power solenoids the house and the chassis are so hot you can only hold them for about 15 seconds. Don't know why they would be so hot.
I think I would go disconnect everything now. Something isn't connected correctly. Not to beat a dead horse, but anytime I work on the battery banks I take a few pictures before I disconnect anything.
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Old 01-14-2021, 05:46 PM   #10
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Solenoid

There are 2 solenoids in the compartment below the driver on the outside of the coach. Unfortunately neither are labeled. The bottom one clicks when the key is turned the top one is silent. There 4 more solenoids at the rear of the motorhome. The ign solenoid and the boost solenoid click when the key is turned. The other 2 are the continuous power solenoids for the house and the chassis. They are too hot to touch for more than about 5 seconds. I have disconnected the battery cables and they cooled down. Will attempt to work on it in the morning.
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Old 01-14-2021, 06:03 PM   #11
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Pics of Batteries

Was able to locate old pics I had taken of the batteries and cable. Will try again tomorrow. Thanks to all of you for your help and concern. The folks on this forum are awesome. Hope to meet some of ya'll one day.
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Old 01-14-2021, 06:04 PM   #12
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There are 2 solenoids in the compartment below the driver on the outside of the coach. Unfortunately neither are labeled. The bottom one clicks when the key is turned the top one is silent. There 4 more solenoids at the rear of the motorhome. The ign solenoid and the boost solenoid click when the key is turned. The other 2 are the continuous power solenoids for the house and the chassis. They are too hot to touch for more than about 5 seconds. I have disconnected the battery cables and they cooled down. Will attempt to work on it in the morning.
Good read here on the 2 warm solenoids which by many accounts is somewhat normal: irv2.com/forums/f115/chassis-and-a-domestic-solenoids-480573.html. If they in fact are turned on and off by your salesman switch, then it might be good to turn that off when not using the coach. BTW, one of the solenoids in the front bay is your salesman switch.
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Old 01-14-2021, 08:10 PM   #13
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Hopefully your old pictures will help, good luck.
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Old 01-15-2021, 07:13 AM   #14
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Solenoid coils will get very hot if magnetic steel core doesn't get pulled into center of field. Once in center voltage can be reduced to keep it there it's the way many large solenoids
work. Low voltage or poor ground may be preventing core/plunger from engaging fully. Sorry that's only advice I can give from here. But the over heating of coil is from experience . If I remove an Asco solenoid valve energized coil at work to not shut the whole process down, need to put a tight steel bolt in center of coil. Once I grabbed a stainless steel bolt by accident it also overheated plastic case in 15 minutes.
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