Community Forums

bjepps · 03-23-2016, 02:40 PM

There are disk brakes on the front wheels on our 05 Monaco Windsor. There are heat cracks in the disks which I assume indicate replacement. Is this the case and what should I be looking at price wise?

If this needs to be done I will have the front wheel bearing packed. Apparently newer coaches have an oil bath lubricating system for the wheel bearing, our coach has some sort of grease system. Can anyone enlighten me about this system.

Many thanks,

Bob

Mr_D · 03-23-2016, 02:43 PM

Do the brakes howl or squeal or do you feel a pulsing on the peddle when using them?

The oil bath vs greased bearings is up to the manufacturer. Both our 2000 and 2002 Dutch Stars had the oil bath as does the present MH.

Stretch · 03-23-2016, 04:05 PM

Not much difference in the two systems. Certainly not worth the price of changing it to oil bath.

Stretch · 03-23-2016, 04:06 PM

If the brakes feel solid I wouldn't worry about heat checking.

D Lindy · 03-23-2016, 04:11 PM

Just wondering how many miles (avg) under normal use should someone see out of their front disc pads?

jacwjames · 03-23-2016, 06:05 PM

If a shop does a good job at wheel bearing pack they will have to remove the hub, clean the bearings, inspect, and repack with new grease. What is the cost of this.

For the cost of a new rear seal and the oil bath outer cap you could convert your front to oil bath. I did this ~3 years ago, cost was ~$400. To me the oil bath is a superior system and you can visually inspect oil level.

Mr_D · 03-23-2016, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacwjames

For the cost of a new rear seal and the oil bath outer cap you could convert your front to oil bath. I did this ~3 years ago, cost was ~$400. To me the oil bath is a superior system and you can visually inspect oil level.

That's my take on it too! The class 8 trucks usually use the oil bath due to less maintenance.

Captjake1 · 03-23-2016, 08:43 PM

If the rig is going to be parked in one spot often, then oil bath seals are more prone to leaking . I have spoken to several mechanics who who have seen several companies so back to grease, because if a seal does go bad, it won't ruin the whole set of brakes.

I was set to make the change to oil bath and ended up staying with grease...at least for the near future.

Mr_D · 03-23-2016, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captjake1

If the rig is going to be parked in one spot often, then oil bath seals are more prone to leaking . I have spoken to several mechanics who who have seen several companies so back to grease, because if a seal does go bad, it won't ruin the whole set of brakes.

I was set to make the change to oil bath and ended up staying with grease...at least for the near future.

Have never heard that and having owned our '02 DSDP for 13 years and stored it for at least 6 months at a time we never had a leak.

Captjake1 · 03-23-2016, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Have never heard that and having owned our '02 DSDP for 13 years and stored it for at least 6 months at a time we never had a leak.

They said it is because the seals will get a dry spotted at the top of the seal (not submerged in oil) and begin to leak.. not as prone if they are moved often.

Stretch · 03-23-2016, 10:28 PM

We have 60,000 miles on our Navigator. Many more miles to go before need new brakes. Course Jake brake helps brake life a lot.

Wild Bill Ed · 03-24-2016, 08:49 PM

First oil bath, I do not believe drying of a seal is of much significance. My 2001 Safari Zanzibar had only 26 k on when I bought it and now has 46K on it and no leakage. As for the conversion yes if inclined do it ...maint is less and will pay for its self in a few years, cleaning and the oil change under 30 minutes.

Now the subject of the Heat fractured rotors. Continued use in time will lead to a catastrophic failure. If you continue watch them carefully, frequently. The solution to the issue: replace rotors with and there are several manufacturers, Centrix Cryogenically treated new rotors. The likelihood of them fracturing again unless you are a mileage hog is nil. Treated rotors will outlast untreated 4 or 5 to one. Lastly look at the composition of the pads. They may be way to hard, long wearing induces much more heat into the rotors than softer wearing ones and much more effort to induces slowing of your coach. Pads today are nothing more than specialty paper blends and a resin as a binder. Federal Mogul makes a new pad for Safari coaches, softer and this equates to better braking but greater wear to the pad and less heat delivered to the rotors. Still I would give up mileage from the pads to get better stopping, if I get 60 K great, I expect 100K due to driving style, Conservation of Motion. Cryoed rotors are in part given to us by NASCAR racers. Cost for a set of fronts possibly $500 from a retailer, wholesale is around $350. They are not needed on the rears.

Good luck,

Bill

Wild Bill Ed · 03-25-2016, 05:14 PM

My apologies for not commenting on the issue most important here. Brakes and the heating of the rotors to the extent that they show heat fracturing leads to another part of the equation and that would be heating of the brake fluid. This as well could lead to a catastrophic event like an accident when the pedal is pressed and minimal braking occurs. The fluid should be checked ASAP for consistency of color. It should be very light, barely yellow and very viscous in the reservoir. If not change immediately. The brakes should be bled as well probably before passing GO as on Monopoly. Do it before your next outing. It most likely will be brown from heat and time. This should be done at least every other year if in wet climates and longer if in dry. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic and will absorb water from the environment like it or not. Water is not good for braking systems ,as it forms bubbles in the caliper when heated and reduces braking substantially and when least expected.

Bill Edwards

BillJinOR · 03-25-2016, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Bill Ed

My apologies for not commenting on the issue most important here. Brakes and the heating of the rotors to the extent that they show heat fracturing leads to another part of the equation and that would be heating of the brake fluid. This as well could lead to a catastrophic event like an accident when the pedal is pressed and minimal braking occurs. The fluid should be checked ASAP for consistency of color. It should be very light, barely yellow and very viscous in the reservoir. If not change immediately. The brakes should be bled as well probably before passing GO as on Monopoly. Do it before your next outing. It most likely will be brown from heat and time. This should be done at least every other year if in wet climates and longer if in dry. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic and will absorb water from the environment like it or not. Water is not good for braking systems ,as it forms bubbles in the caliper when heated and reduces braking substantially and when least expected.

Bill Edwards

doesn't a 05 monaco have air brakes ? IE. no brake fluid..... Or is it air over Hydraulic? I didn't realize That was still in use at that time.